Forced Induction Superchargers | Turbochargers | Intercoolers

Another Rear mount build, but it was coming anyway :)

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Old 12-27-2012, 08:42 AM
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It is coming along nicely! Cant wait to see it on the road, spring can't come fast enough.
Old 12-27-2012, 11:41 AM
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spring? pfft lol im in el paso tx lol we dont really have a winter here so as soon as i can get all the parts i can have it on the road lol
Old 12-27-2012, 11:57 PM
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ordered this little ingenious adaptor,
5 WIRE MAF TO 3 WIRE HARNESS ADAPTER with IAT
Old 12-28-2012, 12:48 AM
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Hello. Just going to drop in here and make a suggestion. Scrap the gauge on the FPR. Its not doing much under the hood. Well, not literally, but I personally would run a fuel pressure transducer in that hole and wire it into your datalogging/ tuning software so you can log it under WOT or run a gauge into the car. Under boost, your fuel pressure should ALWAYS rise 1:1 with boost pressure. For example, if your base pressure is 43 at idle, and you are running 10 PSI of boost at WOT, your total fuel pressure should be 53 under WOT conditions. The gauge / data logger is there to protect you from fuel pressure loss in the event of a pump going bad, bad ground, etc etc.

My 2 Cents
Zack
Old 12-28-2012, 01:04 AM
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Originally Posted by ZNix
Hello. Just going to drop in here and make a suggestion. Scrap the gauge on the FPR. Its not doing much under the hood. Well, not literally, but I personally would run a fuel pressure transducer in that hole and wire it into your datalogging/ tuning software so you can log it under WOT or run a gauge into the car. Under boost, your fuel pressure should ALWAYS rise 1:1 with boost pressure. For example, if your base pressure is 43 at idle, and you are running 10 PSI of boost at WOT, your total fuel pressure should be 53 under WOT conditions. The gauge / data logger is there to protect you from fuel pressure loss in the event of a pump going bad, bad ground, etc etc.

My 2 Cents
Zack
duely noted, and i have thought of that. the gauge is just there to get NA based lined before i get boost into it, also so i can set the FPR right while i get it installed first. I fully plan on getting an in car fuel gauge setup later. this is just my get everything up and running portion. the little gauge was cheap and the hole needed to be pluged lol taking baby steps and getting all my bases covered first. gonna make sure the FPR doesnt leak or anything.

Also, im keeping the fuel pressure at stock levels so 58s the starting level for me.

thanks for the advise, ive already got my guages picked out
Old 12-28-2012, 01:30 AM
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Originally Posted by JoshuaGrooms83
duely noted, and i have thought of that. the gauge is just there to get NA based lined before i get boost into it, also so i can set the FPR right while i get it installed first. I fully plan on getting an in car fuel gauge setup later. this is just my get everything up and running portion. the little gauge was cheap and the hole needed to be pluged lol taking baby steps and getting all my bases covered first. gonna make sure the FPR doesnt leak or anything.

Also, im keeping the fuel pressure at stock levels so 58s the starting level for me.

thanks for the advise, ive already got my guages picked out
Awesome! Sounds like you are right on top of this stuff. Just to let you know, I was not suggesting 43 PSI. I only picked that because that is the pressure I use for my 87 Grand National to use for an example. I have no clue what LS engines use for FP lol. Anyways, good luck! Sounds like an awesome build. Can't wait to see it finished.
Old 12-28-2012, 12:46 PM
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cool, yeah we run a tad bit more fuel pressure form factory in the form of 58-60 PSI stock. so im setting mine to 60psi and then with the FPR it can go up 70PSI with 10lbs of boost. with 60lbs seimien injectors and a ractronics fuel pump and wiring, should be a solid foundation for at least 500hp
Old 12-28-2012, 09:05 PM
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woohoo! got the fittings in to get it all started lol
Got the 14mm with 1.5 oring to 6an fitting with a cap to cap off the fuel T-block. Also got the proper fitting for the return fitting on the FPR. needed a straght cut 6an with an oring to 6 an fitting. i accidently orderd a 6an to 3/8 NPT lol my bad. oh well, always good to have a few extra fittings lol I even got a nice little pipe bender for the 3/8 line to have proper bends instead of wasting tubing. its actully nice for how cheap it was at autozone. so now i just gotta get it done lol

also got a proper check valve to help with PCV duty after the catch can

Last edited by JoshuaGrooms83; 12-28-2012 at 09:12 PM.
Old 12-28-2012, 09:46 PM
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change up alittle setup here
instead of a 38mm wastegate with 8lbs spring,
going with a 44mm wastegate with 4lbs spring.
figure gives a proper size and when its up and running safly with 4psi,
ill change out the spring to 8 or 10, depending.

also stopped procrastinating about it and ordered a glowshift T-top 3 gauge A-pillar pod. mihgt as well. now just need the gauges

Last edited by JoshuaGrooms83; 12-28-2012 at 10:47 PM.
Old 12-30-2012, 04:57 PM
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got a gm 2 bar MAP sensor. I dont plan on going over 15psi so a 3 bar sensor isnt nessary. besides, at that level id have to get a double pump setup and more fuel injector so im good for now lol
Old 01-02-2013, 07:17 PM
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ug, always setbacks lol got my intercooler in the mail today, or so i thought... Instead of the 31x13x3 with 3in/3out, a mix up in packing wound up finding me a twin turbo intercooler setup with 2 in and 1 out. but at least EMUSA is sending me my replacment with a return shipping label right out on the way.

on a happier note i got my 5 to 3 MAF wire with AIT adaptor wire. SO now i can run my GM 85mm MAF and actually use the IAT sensor in it.
Old 01-03-2013, 06:39 PM
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ug, always somthing. Got my intercooler piping in, but they sold me worm gear clamps instead... damn it. oh well, 20 tbolt clamps already on order. pretty much got my cold piping all here. i can at least mock it up. oh well, i gotta wait for my intercooler to be exchanged anyway. got a few odds and end to go and i can start putting it on the car. waiting on my turbo inlet to be made with a T4 inlet and a 44mm wastegate flange being made. THats the only thing ive had made for me. was just easier.
Old 01-05-2013, 06:40 PM
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although its only a start, i got some center bolt valve covers lol now i just need the coil bracketsand some 317 heads
Old 01-06-2013, 09:38 PM
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test fitted my glowshift 3pillar gauge pod. not to bad of a fit, but i think i might touch up and paint it. were the little defrost vent is, is a little rough around the edges and the color is slightly off, thanks to my car having the charcoal black color instead of the black ebony interior plastic. i got the two tone black and tan interior. which makes finding interior parts that are in good condition a PITA lol

also decided to make a serious push to get HPtuner VCM pro. might as well start learning to tune sometime lol
Old 01-07-2013, 11:46 AM
  #135  
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with that 2 bar map, if you plan on running 15psi, just fyi, make damn sure you make it rich up top and tune the hell out of your boost controller (electronic) if you use one. Because at 15.2psi that map quits reading and the PCM goes off the last cell in the table....more air, same fuel from 15psi.... lean. boom.
Old 01-07-2013, 01:40 PM
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oh definitly, i learned off your thread to tune past desired boost level for "just in case" lol im not really planning on past 10psi, but i got the 2bar just for better tuning control.

so im dead set on getting HP tuners. from what ive read its "easier" to learn on for beginners (if you can call tuning software easy lol) plus i believe Frost has it tuned already with HPtuner which makes it easier on me.

thinking of going with the innovate MTX-L, this one seems to be the best deal without costing as much as the tunning software itself lol. i still like the look of the glowshift widebands look but it doesnt have a huge review base yet to give me a good idea on how it performs.

speaking of guages, still wondering what my thrid gauge should be? im getting a wideband, boost gauge.... but what should my thrid be? im wondering if i should get a fuel guage but if i have an AFG, if im getting low fuel pressure the AF/R would tell me this by going lean wouldnt? i dont know. any thoughts?
Old 01-11-2013, 04:09 PM
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well i practiced my metal working skills lol i drilled and tapped a 1/8 NPT port into the turbo compressor housing for the wastegate reference. threaded a 1/8 NPT fitting right in there.
Got my center bolt valve covers for 317 heads for later and my turbo "header" inlet pipe should be in any day now.
Old 01-12-2013, 02:06 PM
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alittle eye candy while i wait for other parts to come in.
although not the right intercooler, the EMUSA looks pretty good for the price i got it at


they are shipping me the right one at no cost to me, just time but EMUSA has been very helpful

my 1/8 NPT to 4an wastegate reference port. im gonna use nylon braded 4an line as a good secure hookup


my wyntonm 44mm wastegate with 4psi spring and im using a 10mmx1.0 banjo with 4an port.


my glowshift 3 gauge apillar pod. ill be getting glowshift red digital vac/boost gauge (possibly with the EGT), 10 elite electical 0-100 fuel pressure gauge, and still debating on a MTX-L or a AEM wideband gauge. If I used a AFX, ill have an open pod and then i dont know what ill use. maybe a oil pressure gauge, but i already have a hobbs switch and a piezo buzzer to alarm me for that. idk. that will be my last thing ill have to rassle lol
Old 01-14-2013, 05:48 PM
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well i finally got my correct EMUSA intercooler. slightly smaller then what i wanted but they had really good customer service. in their defence, i did order it during christmas holidays so whatever. I looks really good.
31x11x3 with 2.75in/out


think i got enough cold piping to mock up the routing.
installed my wire adaptor that has teh AIT sensor wire attached to it going to the MAF now. was a really quick thing. baby steps lol

also ordered a 44mm 8.7psi spring to put in after i get the car up and runnning and TUNED on 4psi. Also found a deal on a OBX wastegate with 3 spings for later when i get froggy on boost levels

just playing the waiting game now for my turbo inlet header and some extra fittings for the oil side since im running it to the oil pan instead of the oil cap. just figured that would be better. also looking at a meth kit to run as well. kinda eye balling the snow performance but not sure yet. Devilsown looks like a nice kit too.

as soon as taxes get in im getting the wideband, boost gauge, and fuel guage, meth kit, and HP tuners

also gonna get an OBX bullet muffler and a bunch of V-band clamps. im gonna redo a few connections on the car so i can seal up the exhaust a little better. some of the welds the stupid welder did along time ago had holes in it and leaks around the cats. still wonering if i should run cars or not. im gonna make it so i can clamp em so i can change my mind about it.
Old 01-14-2013, 06:00 PM
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Just a heads up. You might want to think about running mild steel cold pipe from the turbo to the intercooler... I was under my car yesterday and MAN... has my cold pipe taken a beating. I usually try to avoid any speed bumps that will cause bottoming out, but it happens. If mine were made from aluminum, it would have been dragging behind the car by now. Hell, even a long piece of 2.5" PVC pipe would probably be better than thin walled aluminum from back to front...
Just worried for ya. Hope you don't run into any issues. Tuck it up as high as you can, into any crevice you can.. lol


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