HRHohio

Cant say for the oil pump setup, other than it looks nifty! lol

I am LOVING the mounting clamp idea on the long charge pipe.

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

thanks, i was just looking around for pump mount brackets at the time and came across these clamps that where 2.5" pump mount clamps with rubber isolater inside of the clamp and i was like "THAT!!! is what im gonna use!" lol
at first i was looking at a funnly looking version of the drivers side y pipe clamps, but it still needed to be welded some how to the chassis so that was a nogo. IM just gonna drill a couple of holes where the clamps will go and then seld tap screw them in.

I know i got the main harness made up right. Its actually a take off of making a fuel pump harness lol but instead its powering a lower power demanding oil pump
the only thing id like to make sure is that i got the hobb switch and piezo wired in right and then where to tap in exactly for the powered switch wire. i gotta find that damn racetronix install instructions so i can find which one i took out for the hotwire kit and tap into the stock location so when i turn the key both the fuel pump AND the oil pump prime at the same time.

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

got my 317 heads in today look alright. definitly need to be cleaned up. nothing some solvent and maybe a parts washer cant handle lol
now i have something to put my valve covers on lol




Not too shabby for $80

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

come on taxes lol

well ive pretty much narrowed all the pieces im gonna run. got them all set aside im either my watch list in ebay lol or in a cart on another website to buy it *** soon as i get the money set aside. damn i close to starting this lol

im gonna setup the turbo on the stock motor first and get it all up and running on 4psi safely. gonna have a a frost tune to help get me to a safe base tune up to 15 psi, but gonn akeep it to 12 once its fully straightened out.
Im gonna get HPtuners to help smooth it out on my own. should be fun lol

then once thats all running smoothly and everyhings in order, im going to install the 317heads with .040 cometics gaskets and either a TU1 cam or a tick stage 1 turbo cam and up the boost to 12psi with meth kicking in at about 4 or 6psi.

im wondering, should i have the startign fuel pressure at stock 58psi or should i round it up to 60psi?

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

glowshift red digital fuel pressure gauge ordered and on the way

headed-ws6

iTrader: (34)

What brand hardline did you use id love to do that instead of flex hose.

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

found a little ingenious was to install the wideband into the exhuast on the outlet side of the turbine. Found a 3" in/out resonator muffler with an o2 bung in it. Gonna have a couple of V-bands welded to the bullet muffler and then attach it to the rest of the exhaust. Im also gonna have the bullet cat I have on the car cut off and then have resonator mufflers v-banded into their spots so i have the tone smoothed up alittle bit.

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

i cant believe this ****! does this even look close to right? NO... i could have made it myself and cheaper at that. freakin idiot. now i gotta wait for him to fix it with the right way to do it. how do you screw it up this bad!
i could tell you how much is wrong, but a picture is worth a 1000 words

HRHohio

Yikes! That don't look right.

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

um yeah, the T4 flange doesnt even sit flat. it rolls on the flange. so what that tells me is he over heated the flange when he welded it. Its also made from mild steel instead of stainless. um, $200 for this piece of crap is WAY over price. For the price and time, i could have made this myself for cheaper and with stainless.

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

i actually took the time to see how much it would take in materials to build the inlet pipe... guy freakin is trying to rip me off for sure.
$20 for Stainless T4 flange
$30 for Stainless 2'x2.5" 9degree pipe
$24 for stainless 1'xs1.5" pipe for wastegate
$15 for stainless 2.5" to 2.75"transition pipe
Already have the wastegate flange

Im still under $100 for this. Hes trying to pass off mild steel, and less material for twice the ammount before labor. and with labor about $30 to $60 and hour, that all that it would take, im still under $200... WTF? even with shipping, he's trying to rip me off, so im gonna see if he fixes this or if i have to report him through Paypal for not making the right part.

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

well i talk to the guy and he's gonna fix it. aparently, since he makes sts style "kits" using smaller turbers he gets away with these little abominations that he sent me. what he failed to realize and i guess its my fault for not letting him know about the fact that i am using a much larger turbo then a 60mm or anthign near that tiny. (not really but ill take some of the blame none the less) but waht ever, he gonna make the right turbo inlet... freakin hell...

on a positive note i mounted my glowshift 3 pillar gauge pod. I figure i start getting use to riding around with that thing in my face lol it fit pretty well and somewhat matches the rest of the interior. since it covers most of the stock pillar its not too much of a distration and since im getting more into it with my car, its time to start scrificing looks for performance. not too much but a few things here and there i suppose.

i was gonna hook up my boost guage but i had to do something else. but hopfully ill get my fuel gauge as well somtime soon here. then i can at least have two holes plugged in there lol im gonna go with a little better know wideband and get the MTX-L. Its not gonna match as well as the red gauges but at least i know it can be hooked into HPtuners without much issue. I wish i could get more info on the glowshift one but no ones taken the bullet yet. im almost willing to but not quite.

evilz99

iTrader: (74)

hey josh Learned a lot on your build and I want to thank you for doing it. I'm in the middle of a rear mount build myself and have a few questions if you dont mind...
1) Whats the deal with map sensors? I keep seeing people using them and part numbers but whats the difference between them and the stock one and why do we need different ones for turbo?
2) I only plan on running around 8 psi for a while to I get my feet wet and I really wanna biuld my fuel system to the point where it will support that but also give me room to grow. I plan on using 60 lb siemen dekas and a racetronix pump. what else do I need? I see people running Boost reference fprs and not sure if I need one or not but would like to keep stock lines if at all possible?
I have done a lot of searching and reading but I can not seem to find those two things explained....
Thanks for any help you can give me and great work on the build.

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

No prob, im learning as i go as well but ive been researching heavily and have been scouring all avenues of approach.

1) Whats the deal with map sensors? I keep seeing people using them and part numbers but whats the difference between them and the stock one and why do we need different ones for turbo?
-- biggest thing with MAPs is that they "feel" for what the engine is actually seeing and tells the PCM about it. they are set in BAR. The Stock MAP can only see normal atmoshereic pressure, so anything over, literally anything, it can t see it and has to guess or rely on a really rich tune up top which is still pretty much guessing on the computers and tuners part. at a minimum you should get a 2bar MAP so that your tuner can fine tune everything all the way up to its and your engines limit without guessing. even with 4psi im still going with a 2bar MAP sensor because thats still 4psi over 14.7 atmosphereic pressure. its not "needed" per say, but for such a relitivly cheap part ($35-85) its definitly a good idea to give the PCM everything it need to see whats going on. its jsut one of those things needed for tuning capibilitys. im sure others with more scientific explainations can chime in but this is the simplistic way without over complicating it lol

2) I only plan on running around 8 psi for a while to I get my feet wet and I really wanna biuld my fuel system to the point where it will support that but also give me room to grow. I plan on using 60 lb siemen dekas and a racetronix pump. what else do I need? I see people running Boost reference fprs and not sure if I need one or not but would like to keep stock lines if at all possible?

---you are pretty much were you need to be on fuel. the BR-FPR is absolutly needed but it does help keep fueling consistant and constant. in case you dont know, the BR-FPR helps keep fuel pressure up and also raises the fuel pressure when in boost at 1:1. for example, if your idle pressure is at 60psi, for every 1psi of boost your get 1psi of fuel pressure. this to help over come the boost pressure.
for every amount of boost being pushed in, the fuel has to fight against this. if you dont have enough pressure to fight it, your fuel pressure will drop and then you get into trouble depending on whats going on. with the BRFPR, it can help keep your fuel pressure up were its suppose to be. it also makes tuning easier i hear since the tuner doesnt have to mess with pulse rates and whatnot. Good tuners can tune without the FPR as can a beefy fuel system, but why risk it when you can install this yet another cheap insurance upgrade.

out of all forced indution support items, the two listed above are by far the cheapest ones.

so far you are on the right path for your fuel system. if you havnt, make sure you have the Racetronix hotwire. its definitly a good thing to have in there and when you decide to grow, you will already have it in there. youll only have to get one more harness instead of two if you go dual pumps.

im not sure how far you are on your build but if you got your fuel injectors and fuel pump you have got 2 of the 5 main cost inhibiting items.
heres a few items to start you off in the right direction

TOP 5 parts
TURBO
at a miniumum T72-T76 type turbos with .81 AR turbine housings. this will help with spool and help your engine breathe up top. if you plan to grow alittle a T76 sized turbo is the way to go. most are rated in the 700HP range. not sure of your budget but alot of people have their bias and recommendations. For rear mounts, so far ON3s have done pretty well thus far on alot of peoples cars.. of course so have alot of others out there so it all depends on your budget.

INTERCOOLER
ebay has a good assortment and on the cheap. try to get at least a 27"x3" but alot of people will highly recommend a 31"x3" as do i. i got a bar and plate but tube and fin will do it too. look into EMUSA

SCAVENGER OIL PUMP
try to get a spur gear design. diaphrames arnt really rated for hot oil and degrade quickly over time. Mocal, turbowerks, and a few other s im sure have held up well. biggest thing to preserve the life of these things is to prevent anykind of restrictions in and out of the pump. keep the lines as straight as possible. 4an feed and 10an return lines are generally good starting points and running the return line into the oil pan helps too. this also helps to keep the turbo from leaking.

INJECTORS
you already have these but just putting out there,
injector needs are dependant on a few imporant things in forced induction, but to generalize it,
42lbs 400HP
60lbs 600HP
80lbs 800hp
ETC
remember this is very blanketed and generalized. Please visit the fuel injection sticky that has the calculator to see what size you need. however, 60lbs injectors is a very good starting point. Also, get well know injectors or injectors reworked by known sponsors. the injector is one thing you dont want operating incorrectly

FUEL PUMP
again i know you got it,
at a minimun, 255 walbro pump to supply the fuel. but for the price id have to say Racetronix pump and hotwire kit should be the starting point of anything fuel system. unless you need more then 600hp, this kit will get you going. after that you need duals and/or a aftermarket system. Lonneys dual pump kits i hear are really good.

then theres the few key points to rear mounting

stock manifolds to keep heat in the exhaust
wrap from turbo back to at least the ypipe to keep spool up
a check vavle in the feed side near the turbo to keep oil pooling in the turbo when shut off
perferably drain into oil pan for less resistance
keep turbine on the smaller side for spool up, start with .81 ar
keep gears a little longer so 4.10s are out lol
Tbolt clamps
address the PCV system
ge it tuned... no ifs, ands, or buts...
get a stall before you get a cam if your an auto


mind you im talking 5.7L with auto. rear mounts do better on autos then sticks.
the bigger the engine, the more air it can make and the bigger support systems you need.

evilz99

iTrader: (74)

thanks for the help man and looking forward to install

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

no prob, and you aint lying, im cant wait to get this turbo build up and running, been wanting to do this for like EVER lol

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

well im ordering parts again lolpretty much knocke out the exhaust portion
ordered:
MTX-L Wideband gauge
3" x 14" stainless resonator muffler with o2 sensor port

3" 90degree stainless pipefor outlet
8 3" v-band flange and clamp kits

2 OBX resonator mufflers (to replace cats)

corsa clone 4" staggertwin tips, 3" inlets

4 port vacuum manifold

IF YOU GET THIS KIT, replace the lines with better fuel hose or silicon hoses. these melt at high temps and collapse on themselves ofund that out the hard way. unless they are not directly on top of the engine, get good hoses.

yet again, waiting on a key part to bolt the thing on there, the turbo inlet pipe. guy is sending me a new one that is based on STS original design

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

yay! my glowshift digital fuel gauge came in im doing some gauges this weekend lol

on a side note i went to the track this evening and finally got the angry bird under 14 sec.... 13.9 lol but hey, it was nice to feel it finally hook, even on some cheap sumitomos lol unfortunatly, the track start to degrade in prep and i got stuck in 14.3s constantly. so if i was a bracket racer id be consistant as hell lol i couldnt keep the tires from spinning and i was doin some nice burnouts to get those things hot but people kept dripping **** on the track and way too long between staging and racing so heat started to become an issue too. if i waited about 30-45 minutes between runs and maybe let some more air out of the tires or even pump my kumho XS tires on, i could see 13.7s maybe. but i got a decent baseline before the turbo so what the hell.
actually was suprised on my 60s... 2.0-2.6 range. was really suprised on the 2.0 but had a horible reaction time on that run with .978 but was the best run of the night witht he 13.9 lol but then my other crappier runs had consistanly .5 reactions. dont get it, but whatever.

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

woohoo, and my beginner skills as a tuner begin lol I got my MTX-L wideband in the mail today alreaddy installed logworks on the computer. cant really do anything with it yet lol but its on there lol
unfortunatly the cable is a bit short then i thought it would be so im gonn ahve to get an extention for it when i put the turbo on the car, but for now ill test it out on the ypipes bank 1 sensor 2 port and see how frosts original tune has me at lol i think its rich anyway but curious to see what its at.
so i know what im doing this week

question though, in the 3 pillar pod what should the order of presidence for the gagues? im thinking form top to bottom:

wideband
Boost
fuel pressure

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

Did your fuel pressure gauge come with all the bits to connect it to the fuel rail? I'm looking for something inexpensive to log fuel pressure with.