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Whipple Crankcase, PCV, catchcan setup.

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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 11:17 AM
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Default Whipple Crankcase, PCV, catchcan setup.

I HAVE SEARCHED, and I have not found any REAL solutions to route a PCV/catchan setup on a PD blower.

I have a mike norris catchcan with a rear inlet 2.9 Whipple and I need to know how to install PCV/catchcan setup correctly.

My thinking is I can Tee the valvecovers togeather to the catchcan and then run a PCV valve in line from the catchcan to the inlet (between the TB and blower) No filters needed.

Will this work?
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 12:49 PM
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Its the same as any boosted PVC setup. Use the after TB, SC inlet as your vacuum port
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 09:13 PM
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I believe there is a difference between Centri/turbo setups and PD blower setups. I don't believe a check valve other than the PCV valve is needed for a PD blower build.

Any help
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 11:07 PM
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i think TSP deals w/ whipple and does installs. maybe give them a call c if they can help u out.
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 05:10 PM
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Thanks for the info, I will make some calls.

Any maggie or kennebell guys have input on how yours is setup?
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Old Mar 26, 2012 | 03:06 PM
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No go with TSP. I have tried to search for maggie/KB setups too since they are all PD blowers, no luck.
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Old Mar 26, 2012 | 04:44 PM
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Update talked to Revextreme
Using my Mike Norris Catchcan
Driverside VC hose to catchcan, inlet (between TB/blower) to catchcan, run checkvalved air filter on passenger VC
DONE.
Opinions?
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Old Apr 18, 2012 | 08:46 AM
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I had the same setup minus a check valve on the filter(don't see why you would want/need one here) and it worked well up to 12psi. At 15psi it started saturating the filter and dripping on my headers. I am planning to run the setup in the diagram below if I can find an inline check valve with 5/8" barbs and a low cracking pressure. I am currently running just the vented catch can with -10 to the pass cover and 3/8" to the driver side pcv valve and it seems to be venting fine but I want to get the vac source on there to get rid of the fumes at idle.


Last edited by BigKID; Apr 18, 2012 at 08:51 AM.
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Old Apr 18, 2012 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by BigKID
I had the same setup minus a check valve on the filter(don't see why you would want/need one here) and it worked well up to 12psi. At 15psi it started saturating the filter and dripping on my headers. I am planning to run the setup in the diagram below if I can find an inline check valve with 5/8" barbs and a low cracking pressure. I am currently running just the vented catch can with -10 to the pass cover and 3/8" to the driver side pcv valve and it seems to be venting fine but I want to get the vac source on there to get rid of the fumes at idle.

that looks like a nice set up. I would also like to get rid of the fumes/smell

what does the check valve fileter do? where did you find one?
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 09:14 AM
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While at idle (high vac) the check valve closes off the driver side line to only draw in fresh air from the pass side to evacuate the fumes from the crankcase. If the check valve weren't there, it would likely pull a lot of fresh air from the driver side (path of least resistance) thus not fully flushing the crankcase.
I found a 3/4" check valve with .33psi cracking pressure on McMaster-Carr with threaded female ends and am going to use some 3/4" NPT to 5/8" push-on hose fittings to place it inline.
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