LS1NOVA

iTrader: (12)

No, aluminum 5.3 is staying put. Its always been on E85. Had two 044s and one 255 last year. Swapping the 255 for another 044 should get it done.

Can you give a link to your front suspension parts like A-frame, and front springs.[/QUOTE]

Call Mark at SC&C. http://scandc.com/new/catalog/55?page=1

The only problem with my setup is it now has 2" drop spindles and reworked steering linkage for corrected bumpsteer. Hard to duplicate that easily. Chevelle steering arms mounted backwards. If you want a bolt on setup that similiar, the Ridetech Truturn with spindles would be the closest thing.

Front springs have been converted to Viking coilovers now with 350 springs.

HexenLord

How do the viking coilovers look? I heard they are top notch as far as bang for the buck goes. I'm thinking about getting them for the front But have been holding off on doing any upgrades that might not fit an aftermarket subframe since I want to do that upgrade eventually.

LS1NOVA

iTrader: (12)

The Viking shocks are awesome. I used them this summer and they worked very well. Going back and forth between drags and autox events worked very well.

Im a Viking dealer so if you need some shocks let me know and Ill pass on some savings.

LS1NOVA

iTrader: (12)

The Viking shocks are awesome. I used them this summer and they worked very well. Going back and forth between drags and autox events worked very well.

Im a Viking dealer so if you need some shocks let me know and Ill pass on some savings.

HexenLord

I'll probably toss them on to compliment my new control arms. Do these mount into the spring bucket on the lower control arms? The buckets on my A arms from CPP are 2" deeper to lower the car with stock spindles. I've seem most coilovers use at least the upper control arm for mounting but I wasn't sure on the lower.

Glad to hear they work good. I was told they are better than most if not all of the similarly priced coilovers.

LS1NOVA

iTrader: (12)

They mount into the subframe spring bucket on top with the stud through the top (no association with upper control arm). The bottom mounts to the topside of the control arm using the two old shock attaching holes.

Using dropped spring pockets in one way to get it lower BUT, once you get to the point of the lower ball joint being higher than the lower control arm pivot points you are getting into some nasty suspension geometry and a combination of a lower spring and spindle should be used. Hence the reason for a spindle and spring combo on mine to retain proper suspension travel and geometry once you get SUPER low.

HexenLord

The deep spring pockets were unintentional. CPP sells a budget kit that comes with control arms, springs, and shocks. I picked them up with the intention to lower the car with drop spindles, and it ended up getting lowered anyway. Now I don't want to purchase drop spindles if I can't use them when I upgrade my subframe.

I'll shoot you a PM in a couple of weeks when my taxes come in or someone either buys one of my other cars or my old big block (gotta love tax season).

94 slow

Nate,
Any parts show up?

I'm very curious about the new upgrades...

LS1NOVA

iTrader: (12)

They sure did. Im waiting for the air compressors to arrive....

Chicago TDP

iTrader: (3)

Do you feel like you will ever leave it be?

Just curious...I know all of us car guys love building our car(s) and making power...and once you make the power you wanted...it is never enough...

Not being snyde or anything (but I am totally jealous!)....just curious

Wes Hardin

did you get my pm?would like to talk to you

LS1NOVA

iTrader: (12)

I doubt it. I like the research/build/fab part of it just as much as driving it. I had so many ideas floating around this time around it was hard to make a decision. Part of the reason I do it is owning a business geared towards LS stuff and turbos, I like to have first hand experience with as many combos as possible.

I will not be selling the 5.3 shortblock. If you need anything else lmk.

will69camaro

iTrader: (19)

Wow just coming across this searching for turbo info on LS motors for my 69 camaro build... Amazing build and really looking forward to updates!

William

94 slow

I knew it. What size are you going with? Are you keeping this setup with stock ls manifolds?

LS1NOVA

iTrader: (12)

New setup is:

Existing 5.3 short block
Trick Flow 220 as cast's
Precision Metalcraft sheet metal intake
Turbonetics 6668's with .81ar T4
1 5/8" stainless headers and 2.25 hot side
3.5 stainless in the eng compartment then aluminum out the back
Frozen Boost type 22 a/w under the dash
Dads 5 gallon water tank w/Rule 2000
Aeromotive belt fuel pump and regulator
Precision Turbo 160lb injectors
Holley HP EFI

HexenLord

That seems like a lot of extra money spent for a pair of 66s, quite a bit of overkill in there.

You could probably do without the intake, A/W, and belt driven fuel pump.

LS1NOVA

iTrader: (12)

Depends on how you look at it.

Got the intake for a very low price, needed some repair.

My goal is to have the underhood always look very uncluttered. I'd like to center mount the turbos up front just behind the grille and lay down the radiator. An air to air intercooler core sufficient for 1200whp is monstrous and Nova's are tight in front. Picture totally smoothed black engine, headers, and two turbo, nothing else noticeable. That's part of the reason.

I was running three fuel pumps, if one of those stops working, it would likely cost an engine. A belt drive is simple, reliable, and really not that expensive.

94 slow

A
I can't wait to see how clean you make it look in the engine compartment.

BanditDave

iTrader: (11)

Hey Nate, are you running the 80e? Or did Miss it and you're going with something else? Reason I ask is that the HP EFI didn't have trans control last I was looking at them.

Killer build bud!

LS1NOVA

iTrader: (12)

Keeping the 80E. I have a Baumann Optishift controller that I got really cheap so Im going to use the HP, initially anyway and save $1000.