Had the BC wired for several months, worked great. One night i noticed the gauge would flicker when in boost (WOT) then the gauge would go blank. could turn the car off and back on the EB would reset and work fine. this progressivley became worse. to the point where anytime i would go WOT the gauge would freeze, go blank. The gauge was wired with several other accessory gauges. So I cut the power and wired it directly to the battery. No change, still did the same. I then borrowed a friends EB2 (his is brand new. apparently i have an older one (bought new in 2008 and sat in my office for 3-4 years)my EB reads 1.1 when powered, atmosphere. his reads 0) and went out and still same issue. at this point i suspect a bad ground. So i completely rewire it. It now has its own dedicated power and dedicated ground. I rewired the tach line, i rewired the other 2 wires that go to my shifter (i am able to click up and down through SP settings. ie. 10lbs, 15lbs, 20lbs, 25lbs).

100% rewired, sodered and shrink wrapped. I take it out and roll into the throttle. 4 different times all on high boost (25lbs). works flawlessly. The last time i brake boost to 5lbs and then take off and it did reset like it did before.

Are these units senstive to voltage change? I dont have a ways to log voltage (other then just looking at the cluster) when it 1st started doing this months ago it seemed lke it only freaked out when i was on highboost. anything under 15lbs it wouldnt do it. then it got worse and worse. I dont see how a faulty boost solenoid would make the display go blank.

i've search turbosmart tech forum and have seen 3-4 other people with the same issues, but none ever follow up with a resolution. i started my own thread and turbosmart said to check grounds, which after this weekend i know can not be the case.


if you watch this video i took several months ago you can see the EB2 flicker then go blank (around the 55 second mark)

sorry for the long ramble, but this is driving me crazy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrUP4...ature=youtu.be

 

JP send it off for repair(if they can repair it). I would not use it with what it is doing. Who knows man It might put the car in a weird spot where the map isnt covered and hurt your engine.

 

i'm going to call on Tuesday and see what they'll do for me. I'm fed up with this. After researching and seeing everyone have similar issues, no resolutions and lack of tech support i'm about to scrap it. a waste of $500+.

i'm pretty sure the solenoid is now junk. i just got back from testing and it hits 25lbs on any SP setting. I switched EB2's between mine and my buddies and same on both. Guess i'll go with a MB but while the short time this POS worked i loved having boost by gear and the advantage of being able to set WG pressure for increased TQ on the initial spool.

 

whats another good electronic BC besides an AMS1000? (i dont feel like dropping $900+)

 

Try an AMS 500 still a good unit

 

JP try a Boost Leash II, they have been getting great reviews.

 

lack of tech support? have you tried calling turbosmart directly at their CA office? I never understand the mentality of "oh, youre having a problem? well buy a different brand." There is obviously something wrong with your car if a second eboost was acting up. I understand that you changed th ewiring, but that obviously isnt the issue here. You might have a charging system issue, or some other unknown issue. Your friend with the other eboost wasnt having problems, so that proves its not the eboost's fault.

 

Exactly what I was going to say. How can you blame TS here when this is solely your own cars fault the part is acting up? I could see if your friend also had issues with his or multiple issues have come up that you know of first hand but I think you need to figure out why its causing the issue with the controller, as in, what could be the issue with the car itself? How are the other gauges working in the car? Do you have a way to log runs? There has to be a reason other than a bad BC because if its still doing it with your friend's controller and his works fine on his own car, then think about it...
Hope you figure it out tho, electrical issues are a PITA for sure. Call TS, maybe they can assist you in figuring out the issue, they are the experts and might have some advice you havent gotten yet that actually helps. They want you to run their product so Im sure they will help all they can to get you in that position. Good luck.

 

It's a voltage issue. Would you like to borrow my whole setup? I'm not using it. Solenoid too.

Typically when voltage gets low, it does exactly what you're describing. It then defaults to no SP (off) and its what ever gate pressure is.

If its hitting 25 psi? There's another issue somewhere else.

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...rk-common.html

This solved my voltage problem on my old SS aswell. Granted I wasn't making 4000hp like you are, but I still have voltage problems at 15-17psi. Hope this helps JP

 

Louis the car is now making 25lbs on a any SP setting. I turned off the BC and still made 25lbs (should have only made gate, 12) put Wills in and did the same. Jeremy, I'll read your thread and see what I can do. Last night I ran the car and only paid attention to the voltage and and stayed 12ish volts the entire time.

 

Hmmm, what wastegate are you using? Sounds like its jammed shut or broken. Try using a mightyvac and pull vacuum on the wastegate and see if it opens.

 

As previously suggested, it sure helps to just make a phone call.
Turbosmart will also check it out for you and test it.

The reason why many times you dont see something on the support forum with a resolution, is that with any forum, many people are happy to complain about something but when it is resolved, less than 50% of people actually go back and comment about it (I see this with any product). If there was no resolution, people are happy to just keep posting negative comments.


Now, if you swapped the E-Boost with your buddies, and it did the same thing, turned it off and it did the same thing, your issue lies elsewhere - maybe the solenoid has junk in it or is somehow stuck.

Display shutting down is a sign of a backfeed or other voltage/electrical issues. If you short the unit out, the display is the first thing to go.
This is true with all electronics.
Low voltage is also an issue.

If the unit is still under warranty, there is never an issue. If it is not, there are still things that can be done.

 

WG. Is fine. Pulled the line and it only makes spring.
I think now my
Solenoid is messing up on top of whatever is wrong with BC. Wether it be a voltage issue or not.

 

WG. Is fine. Pulled the line and it only makes spring.

That is good to know and is important.


Again, make the call, send it all in and have it checked out.

909-476-2570

Ask for Marty

 

Sounds good stinkerd. Use mine till yours gets back. The eb2 is nice to have round these parts

 

Thanks Marty. I will Definetly be calling tomorrow to see if I can send in the unit for testing. I have called twice in the past and both times was told manager would call me back and never did. I left that out of my experience bc it wasn't pertinent. I understand people get busy. That's why I made a thread on the turbosmart forum, had one response (which I responded to) and never anything after that. If I was to source the 12v to a standalone battery, would that scratch out the possibility of low voltage ?

Thanks Louis! I'm assuming Wills eboost was working before, but depending on what Marty says I might borrow it. How do I test the solenoid? I might send that in too if I send the EB in with it.

 

quick update: I was able to get a hold of Marty the next day. we went over a couple of things and there are a couple things I will test. Will probably be this weekend when the weather cools down in Texas. I dont like to beat on the car when its still 93+ at night. :texas:

 

MSD Boost Controller..

If you think it could be the alternator I have a nice 165 amp you can borrow.

 

update for anyone who researches these symptoms in the future.

I was able to put a car battery in my passenger seat and wire the power from the Eboost straight to the battery. I went and tested 6-7 hits on high boost. Both rolling into throttle and also brake boosting. The Eboost never malfunctioned. This tells me that I must be losing voltage on the initial spike of boost. Huge thanks to Marty for trouble shooting with me over the phone.