Project "Because Streetcar"
Watch an ice skater doing a staionary spin.
Arms/leg out = slow spin -this would be a big turbo.
then they pull their arms/leg in
IN = faster spin - this would be small turbo
It's very clear if you've ever watched.
I can't remember the math -squared or cubed...
It's not a 1 to 1 ratio.
Say you go twice the diameter it would take 4 times the force to accelerate at the same rate.
Also, when the wheel gets bigger in diameter you have to add mass to the blades due to the fact that the tips are traveling farther (faster) than a smaller diameter at the same rpm. Think 28" tire vs 25"
So you also have proportionally more mass to spin also. It all adds up.
A 427 w/ twin 72's will make around 1200 fwhp at 13 psi or so. Look on NRE's website. They are his #1 seller I think.
That's why you're getting comments about hiding while your out cruising.
You're 23 and yes we don't know you. I just met Killer-LS1, he's only 25, and I'd have no issue doing a ride along with him in his 1000rwhp car now. -I went and watched the dyno runs. You're coming in and talking about a 7 sec capable build as your first turbo car and some people aren't being PC with their comments.
The commonly expressed limit for the street by the guys that have btdt is 700 rwhp.
That's twin 61's or 62's on a 347-370. 35r's on a 385ish would probably be about the sweet spot on boost vs hp w/ pump gas and reliability and budget imop. Intmid8 has stated this several times in a round about manner in other posts.
Another example- a 91.5 f or g? trim on a 347 does low 8's on a DR.
You don't need a 427 to do what you want. A 370 with a Gt5018 would do it and cost less. But a lot of guys say an 88mm and street don't go together.
A 347 with twin 35r would do it too.
Read all of Killer-LS1's build. He has imop what you want.
404, small cam, small heads, billet bb 88mm 1.23 T6, and cheap 112/102 turbine, M6. And theirs still more in the combo since his cold side is too small.
Or 98Z28cobrakillers for that matter. Although he want's a 91 now.
Go Los....
That's why you're getting comments about hiding while your out cruising.
You're 23 and yes we don't know you. I just met Killer-LS1, he's only 25, and I'd have no issue doing a ride along with him in his 1000rwhp car now. -I went and watched the dyno runs. You're coming in and talking about a 7 sec capable build as your first turbo car and some people aren't being PC with their comments.
The commonly expressed limit for the street by the guys that have btdt is 700 rwhp.
That's twin 61's or 62's on a 347-370. 35r's on a 385ish would probably be about the sweet spot on boost vs hp w/ pump gas and reliability and budget imop. Intmid8 has stated this several times in a round about manner in other posts.
Another example- a 91.5 f or g? trim on a 347 does low 8's on a DR.
You don't need a 427 to do what you want. A 370 with a Gt5018 would do it and cost less. But a lot of guys say an 88mm and street don't go together.
A 347 with twin 35r would do it too.
Read all of Killer-LS1's build. He has imop what you want.
404, small cam, small heads, billet bb 88mm 1.23 T6, and cheap 112/102 turbine, M6. And theirs still more in the combo since his cold side is too small.
Or 98Z28cobrakillers for that matter. Although he want's a 91 now.
Go Los....
Last edited by TurboS10; Sep 7, 2012 at 03:53 PM.
I definitely understand the weight of the wheel, I thought it was something else.
My original idea was to run a larger CID shortblock so that I could run ~1200whp on lower boost... but I guess I could live with a 390 with a bit more boost...
My original idea was to run a larger CID shortblock so that I could run ~1200whp on lower boost... but I guess I could live with a 390 with a bit more boost...
this is a lofty idea and will not be pulled off simply by putting big numbers and good intentions together.
if you ever want to go quick with a turbo manual the way the package works together will be much more important than how impressive any component is.
back in the day i didnt have any particularly amazing parts on my manual formula, but they worked good together! same deal with the t/a pretty much.
the reason you will want an 80 over a 400 or glide is very simple. converter lockup.
if you ever want to go quick with a turbo manual the way the package works together will be much more important than how impressive any component is.
back in the day i didnt have any particularly amazing parts on my manual formula, but they worked good together! same deal with the t/a pretty much.
the reason you will want an 80 over a 400 or glide is very simple. converter lockup.
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Brett Foote
TECH Regular
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 483
Likes: 0
From: Texas
im sure hes saying just for example...
i would do a 370 with a 91mm and a th-400. How much power are you wanting to make and what kind of fuel..pump gas or e85? id stick with a 370" you wont make much more power with bigger displacement.
i would do a 370 with a 91mm and a th-400. How much power are you wanting to make and what kind of fuel..pump gas or e85? id stick with a 370" you wont make much more power with bigger displacement.
this is a lofty idea and will not be pulled off simply by putting big numbers and good intentions together.
if you ever want to go quick with a turbo manual the way the package works together will be much more important than how impressive any component is.
back in the day i didnt have any particularly amazing parts on my manual formula, but they worked good together! same deal with the t/a pretty much.
the reason you will want an 80 over a 400 or glide is very simple. converter lockup.
if you ever want to go quick with a turbo manual the way the package works together will be much more important than how impressive any component is.
back in the day i didnt have any particularly amazing parts on my manual formula, but they worked good together! same deal with the t/a pretty much.
the reason you will want an 80 over a 400 or glide is very simple. converter lockup.
I still am not sure which direction I want to go with my setup, im more confused than when I started...
and yes I was reading that about the lack of lockup on the th400.
I came in with a few ideas, but now I literally have no clue what I want to do. I don't know how I am going to figure it out either.
I will be running e85... but if I get really crazy I wouldn't be against running e98....
I agree, and second that. There are some impressive Procharger setups out there and the nice thing is the boost is linear, so no massive torque, tire spin iducing spike in boost that caues lost races unless you're an AWD lambo or GTR.
I'd really like to see someone make a highway racer with an F1-X/R or F2 with a 400+ cube motor with a six speed and low rear gears.
Im not interested in running a Procharger.
Never been a fan of centri blowers..
A big reason that I am excited for this build is so that I can make everything myself.. get some experience, and be able to look at everything knowing I made it.
I want as few "bolt on" parts as possible.
Never been a fan of centri blowers..
A big reason that I am excited for this build is so that I can make everything myself.. get some experience, and be able to look at everything knowing I made it.
I want as few "bolt on" parts as possible.
Stepping back some, and talking as an outsider who doesn't know you.....it almost seems like you and/or others are trying to make this overly complicated. I like to follow the age old saying of K.I.S.S. (keep it simple stupid). Jim has posted in this thread, among others, simple yet effective turbo setups. If I were you, I'd stick to a proven combo and make it happen. If you grow out of it in a few years, then step up the game. Run it on 93 octane and drive the heck out of it. If you want to have a "high boost" tune, run race gas.
Pick the power goal
Pick twins or single
Pick cubic inches
Build kit
The other stuff will fall into place as the car comes together- trans, rear, fuel, etc.
Pick the power goal
Pick twins or single
Pick cubic inches
Build kit
The other stuff will fall into place as the car comes together- trans, rear, fuel, etc.
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: Austin, Tx
I would swap around the pick cubic inches and picking turbo/s, i got the cart before the horse now my turbo is going to be a bit small for my build because i bought my rotating assembly after i bought my turbo, i got a killer deal on the stroker kit but now im stuck using a pt76 on a 383 which is going to kill my top end. once you have your motor done and set in stone, then order your turbo/s dont make the same mistake i did :/
It seems like the cubic inches/engine setup and turbo choice are in the same conversation and decided upon around the same time. I wouldn't build an engine and then pick an inferior turbo choice. You almost want to say...okay I want 800rwhp with twin 'somethings' and 3xx cubic inches - then do it.
I don't know enough to say specific combinations, but that's where people like Jim come into play. Call him up and hash out the details.
I don't know enough to say specific combinations, but that's where people like Jim come into play. Call him up and hash out the details.
Im not interested in running a Procharger.
Never been a fan of centri blowers..
A big reason that I am excited for this build is so that I can make everything myself.. get some experience, and be able to look at everything knowing I made it.
I want as few "bolt on" parts as possible.
Never been a fan of centri blowers..
A big reason that I am excited for this build is so that I can make everything myself.. get some experience, and be able to look at everything knowing I made it.
I want as few "bolt on" parts as possible.