Making my car leave harder?
Making my car leave harder? Chevy 5.3, TH400, PTC 3200ish stall, Master Power 76mm, E85, 3.08 gear, and a 26" tire, 3800lb car.
Ok, here's the cliffnotes version. 2 weeks ago: Car left super slow (high 2.0s, to middle 2.1s) and would go 8.20s @ 87-88. Couldn't build boost at the line, would only footbrake to 2400. This is when the car was on 7 psi.
Wired up my two step, gave it 36* timing down low to build some boost at the line, and hopefully get it to come out of the hole AT LEAST in the 1.9s. Got it to build 4lbs at the line consistently with the twostep holding the footbrake to 2800 (started to push through at 2850, gonna try 2825 next).
Now the car pulls off scorching low 2.0s in the 60'! And one time, when I accidentally staged DEEP, it pulled off a neck snapping 1.97 60'! LOL. Playing with timing a few other places, and turning the boost up to 15psi, and now the car does 7.50-7.60s @ 101-103.
I don't want to put a brake, or nitrous on the car. I'm gonna call the guy who made my converter and see what he says, I'm trying to avoid pulling the trans. (because I'm lazy, and just don't really like pulling a trans with the car on jackstands and using a floor jack to drop the trans)
I've talked with a few intelligent minds about my issues. One person says I've got too much gear, another says I don't have enough. I'm leaning towards some 3.27/3.31s, but I'm not just gonna jump right into a gear swap if that won't do anything for me. So I figured I'd come on here and see what you guys have to say. Thanks!
Ok, here's the cliffnotes version. 2 weeks ago: Car left super slow (high 2.0s, to middle 2.1s) and would go 8.20s @ 87-88. Couldn't build boost at the line, would only footbrake to 2400. This is when the car was on 7 psi.
Wired up my two step, gave it 36* timing down low to build some boost at the line, and hopefully get it to come out of the hole AT LEAST in the 1.9s. Got it to build 4lbs at the line consistently with the twostep holding the footbrake to 2800 (started to push through at 2850, gonna try 2825 next).
Now the car pulls off scorching low 2.0s in the 60'! And one time, when I accidentally staged DEEP, it pulled off a neck snapping 1.97 60'! LOL. Playing with timing a few other places, and turning the boost up to 15psi, and now the car does 7.50-7.60s @ 101-103.
I don't want to put a brake, or nitrous on the car. I'm gonna call the guy who made my converter and see what he says, I'm trying to avoid pulling the trans. (because I'm lazy, and just don't really like pulling a trans with the car on jackstands and using a floor jack to drop the trans)
I've talked with a few intelligent minds about my issues. One person says I've got too much gear, another says I don't have enough. I'm leaning towards some 3.27/3.31s, but I'm not just gonna jump right into a gear swap if that won't do anything for me. So I figured I'd come on here and see what you guys have to say. Thanks!
With a 3200 stall converter you should be stalling up more at the line. Are you sure that converter is built for your specific setup? A brake would come in handle as well. So if you have to pull the trans, I would install one.
Yep, it was made specifically for the car/setup by PTC. I really don't want a brake because then I'll have to upgrade the rear end $500ish, and they're way harder on the trans. Plus a brake is what, like $700? Unless there's a DIY trans brake option. I'll probably have to pull the trans and get the stall loosened, and maybe shorter gears also, because I'm realy trying to avoid a brake, or nitrous to help from the hole.
you want to retard timing to build boost off the 2step. In a nutshell, by retarding the timing you are giving the turbo more usable energy (heat) to spool it. Once you leave the line, go back to your normal timing
I couldnt tell you how much to pull. Try searching it, i know ive read some threads where people have talked about how much to pull but i cant remember the numbers(its setup specific). I would just start experimenting in the driveway or a parking lot. youll be able to tell right away and once it starts spooling faster pull some more untill its where you want it.
If your th400 is built, a transbrake should only be a valvebody swap.
I know Jake's Performance had an automatic shift transbrake they were testing, and I'm pretty sure it wasn't $700.
I know Jake's Performance had an automatic shift transbrake they were testing, and I'm pretty sure it wasn't $700.
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I couldnt tell you how much to pull. Try searching it, i know ive read some threads where people have talked about how much to pull but i cant remember the numbers(its setup specific). I would just start experimenting in the driveway or a parking lot. youll be able to tell right away and once it starts spooling faster pull some more untill its where you want it.
Yea, there's one for $150 that does it by shifter position, which I don't know how that works, and all the others start at like high $500s. So that's Between $750 and $1250 if I went that route. I put a 34 element sprag in, and a full manual kit, other than that, it's bone stock. It even came with some water in the pan when I traded my old nitrous kit for it!
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Maybe you need better brakes, my ltd is a glide, 2.73's 27" STREET tire(not drag radial), ptc 3200 converter, 7675, and a good boost controller. It will make 3600rpm once get building boost and loosens up the converter with no 2 step, and make around 8lbs and go 1.7 60fts consistently and a few 1.5's(mind you, on street tires, not drag radials). I had the check valve in the brake booster going bad, it would make zero boost and only hold about 2700rpm, go 2.3 60fts. With an upgraded check valve in the line and going to a 3.08 gear and 26x8.5 slick I'm able to make 14lbs of boost at ~3800rpm as the brakes hold a lot better now. Also on the transbrake it'll make 20+ lbs at 4000rpm.
Maybe you need better brakes, my ltd is a glide, 2.73's 27" STREET tire(not drag radial), ptc 3200 converter, 7675, and a good boost controller. It will make 3600rpm once get building boost and loosens up the converter with no 2 step, and make around 8lbs and go 1.7 60fts consistently and a few 1.5's(mind you, on street tires, not drag radials). I had the check valve in the brake booster going bad, it would make zero boost and only hold about 2700rpm, go 2.3 60fts. With an upgraded check valve in the line and going to a 3.08 gear and 26x8.5 slick I'm able to make 14lbs of boost at ~3800rpm as the brakes hold a lot better now. Also on the transbrake it'll make 20+ lbs at 4000rpm.
It will take forever to spool an auto by pulling timing out of it initially.
It seems this topic comes up once a week and I'm left searching for my own threads and words on this exact stuff each and every time.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...-60-times.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...pool-time.html
I've had a th400 setup in the car also and still could get it to come up on boost fine. Buy a GOOD boost controller and it'll help you more than you will need.
It will take forever to spool an auto by pulling timing out of it initially.
It seems this topic comes up once a week and I'm left searching for my own threads and words on this exact stuff each and every time.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...-60-times.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...pool-time.html
It seems this topic comes up once a week and I'm left searching for my own threads and words on this exact stuff each and every time.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...-60-times.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...pool-time.html
My current manual air compressor regulator seems to be holding it very consistently. I don't really have $1000 to buy an AMS one to make it spool faster.
It will take forever to spool an auto by pulling timing out of it initially.
It seems this topic comes up once a week and I'm left searching for my own threads and words on this exact stuff each and every time.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...-60-times.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...pool-time.html
It seems this topic comes up once a week and I'm left searching for my own threads and words on this exact stuff each and every time.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...-60-times.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...pool-time.html
Got it, thanks man.
Yea, there's one for $150 that does it by shifter position, which I don't know how that works, and all the others start at like high $500s. So that's Between $750 and $1250 if I went that route. I put a 34 element sprag in, and a full manual kit, other than that, it's bone stock. It even came with some water in the pan when I traded my old nitrous kit for it!
Yea, there's one for $150 that does it by shifter position, which I don't know how that works, and all the others start at like high $500s. So that's Between $750 and $1250 if I went that route. I put a 34 element sprag in, and a full manual kit, other than that, it's bone stock. It even came with some water in the pan when I traded my old nitrous kit for it!
No problem man! I just feel like a giant tape recorder sometimes.