Roar

iTrader: (2)

What "cheap" turbo should I use to get quicker turbo response?

Engine:
LS3 stock crank, rods (w/ARP's). Diamond pistons. 10:1 compression.
LSA heads
LS3 intake, 92mm TB
Custom turbo cam 236/230 .608/.605 115
E85 fuel
411 PCM - HPTuners
Holset HX60 turbo T6 flange.

Offroad race only vehicle with TH400 transmission, 5000 stall converter.

No dyno, but I am making around 900 crank HP at 16 psi (compared to my old 866hp 580cid NA BBC engine)

Boost comes in at 3000 and I have full boost at around 5500 rpm.
7000rpm redline.

Would like to be able to generate around 1000 crank HP.

I would like boost to come in quicker - big issue is I am not willing to pay big money for the "perfect" turbo because I only race in very dusty environment and turbo life is short regardless of brand.

I was thinking maybe a BW S475 which can be had for a reasonable price??
I am not opposed to using a chinese turbo but they are all to small I think.
I dont have room for twins without some major, major fab work.....

Any input would be greatly appreciated!

killernoodle

Borg Warner would be the cheapest and most reliable way to get there for sure. The s480 would probably be the one to get here.

Roar

iTrader: (2)

How about spooling - I guess this will be faster than my old Scania Diesel turbo..
Any idea about how much faster?

LilJohn

Fix whats really wrong with the setup first.

The cam and converter.

Valve events are out of whack. Intake closes too late. Exhaust isnt opening early enough.. That can is a terrible match. The converter is way too loose. Below 4000 you might as well be revving it in neutral.

Fix those first. Youll be much happier.

dirty_old_chevy

Liljohn, do you think if his lobes were reversed (ie. 230/236 on 115), it would be happier?

LilJohn

Happier yes... but thats still not ideal.... intake valve would still be closing too late.

Now if you were to reverse the lobes and advance the intake centerline 4 degrees... youd be getting close.

Id still want a tick more evo.... ideally its be something like 234/239 115+4.

The turbine side of that turbo is huge. Exducer is 85mm. Inducer is like 94...add to the fact the A/r of the housing is prolly 24cm... and a cam with a 50 evo aint gonna cut it. Its 10 degrees shy of where it needs to be minimum. Combine that with no load because the converter stall at 5500.....

Roar

iTrader: (2)

Thanks guys!
I know the turbo is wrong but I had it in my shop so I thought why the hell not!!
It gives me all the power I need - just not right when I need it
For the cam - I dont know that much about turbo cams but I bought that is what I bought it as...?

Converter - this much stall is needed for the type of racing I do. I need to get the engine up and revving as fast as possible. Car is geared to max out at only 80mph in third gear and 7000rpm.
The vehicle is 3000 lbs, 4WD with spools in both axles and four 18" wide tires with big paddles molded to them. Needless to say I have a LOT of resistance to overcome.

I was thinking to start with switching the turbo first to get me in the right direction....it must be a better choice turbo for me out there....

Roar

iTrader: (2)

Summit lists this cam for turbocharged 6.0L + engines and it seems not so different from the one I have or am I missing something???

BTW my cam is also 115+4

CCA-54-481-11
Cam Style:Hydraulic roller tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range:2,700-7,200
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:235
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:231
Duration at 050 inch Lift:235 int./231 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration:285
Advertised Exhaust Duration:281
Advertised Duration:285 int./281 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.621 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.617 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.621 int./0.617 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees):115
Camshaft Gear Attachment:3-bolt

OTT308

Don't use that cam, get a custom one to suit your needs/combo. LilJohn should be able to help you out. Martin @ Tick also seems very knowledgable.

I had that cam in my combo then got one from LilJohn-way better.

LilJohn

Thats fine. Ignore my advice. Swap the turbo. .

You arent here to fix it.. youre just here looking for someone to agree with you...

Youve got this custom one off type race car... and you expect a cam off the shelf to work? Get real.

Again. You dont need a reverse split camshaft in that damn motor.

jridenour31

Wrong. That much stall is counterproductive.

Roar

iTrader: (2)

Wrong - I am here to hopefully give me a better performing engine and was thinking that the old diesel type turbo would be a good place to start.
I just cannot believe that the HX60 would be as good as a more modern quicker spooling turbo - even with the cam I have. After all a HX60 is designed for a 14L Scania engine revving 2500prm max...

The cam I have is not an off the shelf cam - it is custom ground but for a slightly different combination - 6.0L Silverado truck with a single 76mm turbo on it. It just seems very similar to the Comp cam I listed.
If my cam is wrong for my combination - so be it and I will have someone spec me a perfect one but I believe I still will have a issue with the turbo or do you believe that just a different cam will move the spooling rpm down 500-1000 rpm?? That would be perfect !!
Also - I dont want to buy a camshaft spec'd for the wrong turbo...

If it helps - this is the type of driving I do:

LilJohn

That cam was specd for a 76mm.. ok but WHICH 76? Probably an on3 from the looks of it.

The cam you currently have does not match the turbo/engine combination.

It opens the exhaust valve late wasting energy that could be used for spooling the turbo. That cam is meant for a turbo with a 68mm turbine to keep it from choking... your turbine inducer IS OVER 90MM.

because the cam is wrong and takes a **** ton of rpm to get enoygh energy for the turbine... youve crutched that by putting in a loose converter... Its SO loose the turbo has nothing to build load against till its damn near on the rev limiter...

Honestly.. theres no reason why an HX60 shouldnt be at full boost by 4000 rpm.. Put the right camshaft in it that will make it spool.. then tighten up the converter a touch so itll load the motor better.

I promise you if you do those two things..... you'll love that holset.

SKULL

iTrader: (7)

take it from me and the guy who already mentioned it.


LISTEN TO LILJOHN!!!!!!

itll be the biggest step in the right direction

TurboMonte100

iTrader: (1)

John is right, and after watching the video, you would be much better off with a combo that has a good midrange along with strong throttle responce over something setup mainly for topend.

Beanslsxnova

iTrader: (1)

That hill climb **** is crazy!! Lol you have ***** sir. As far as the set up I think lil John pretty much hit the nail on the head. You would be amazed a how much a cam will make a difference from close to spot on spec wise. My spool time dropped almost 700rpms from a tu1 cam to a cam spec'd for my old set up. Loading the engine sooner with a littlet tighter converter I'm sure would help a ton to

Roar

iTrader: (2)

Great !!

As long as I can expect my HX60 to perform satisfactory - a new cam it is then!

I do have another converter that should stall around 4000 as well so I will try that.

Thanks!!!

SKULL

iTrader: (7)

let us know the results. AND POST MORE VIDEOS

i wish they had **** like that around me

LilJohn

I promise you it will work.

The hx60 is a very good turbo. There are aftermarket billet compressor wheels that can make that a 1400 hp capable unit.

jridenour31

Wow, that is pretty awesome stuff.