Bore size for 8000rpms
Bore size for 8000rpms I have a 6.0 virgin block 4.0 and I have a 3.90 forged crank and I'm buying a stud girdle with arp studs. I have a set of after market ls3 heads and will be boosting a set of tc72s. With the right cam can a 4 inch bore with a 3.90 crank reach 8000? I think 15 to 18 pounds singing at 8k will sound like the heavens playing.
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Verdad Gallardo My whole bottom end is forged with h beams 6.125 and wiesco pistons that's been coated and up graded wrist pins with hell fire rings. The heads are procomp ls3 heads that are cnc'd I don't think the breathing will be a issue. I don't plan on turning it all the time to 8000 just when I feel like having some fun. I'm thinking ill have to run Jesel shaft rockers though
I wanna beat a few of my buddies that are running vipers around the track. I really hate losing and I have a 3rd gen formula that I'm setting up for it. All suspension is umi with a brake up grade from fly bye to run 5th gen as brakes and rotors and I'm viper specify my t56 as we speak. I wanna beat then not only in a straight line but around the track so, I'm thinking a 1000 rwhp plus turning 8000 grand will do. Will I have 20k in the car plus yes and it sounds like fun
Unless the transmission is being face plated you will have heavy wear on the internals above 7000 rpm, really anything above 6500 rpm as quoted from RPM Transmissions. I'd stick with 7000rpm as the goal. Your really going to need some high quality expensive parts to run at an excessive rpm for extended lengths of time. I'd look into doing a dry sump conversion for a track car as well.
The oiling system since the f body Pan dry slumps around hard cornering I bought a improved racing trapped door that's oppose to elongate that and using a hv melting oil pump for 30 percent more flow. And I have a article in rpms transzilla build and a lot if what they did I'm doing. I figure driving and racing it the motor will only be I the 8000 range 30 percent or so once I have the bragging rights it'll be a weekend event car and Sind street racing
The oiling system since the f body Pan dry slumps around hard cornering I bought a improved racing trapped door that's oppose to elongate that and using a hv melting oil pump for 30 percent more flow. And I have a article in rpms transzilla build and a lot if what they did I'm doing. I figure driving and racing it the motor will only be I the 8000 range 30 percent or so once I have the bragging rights it'll be a weekend event car and Sind street racing
My whole bottom end is forged with h beams 6.125 and wiesco pistons that's been coated and up graded wrist pins with hell fire rings. The heads are procomp ls3 heads that are cnc'd I don't think the breathing will be a issue. I don't plan on turning it all the time to 8000 just when I feel like having some fun. I'm thinking ill have to run Jesel shaft rockers though
I wanna beat a few of my buddies that are running vipers around the track. I really hate losing and I have a 3rd gen formula that I'm setting up for it. All suspension is umi with a brake up grade from fly bye to run 5th gen as brakes and rotors and I'm viper specify my t56 as we speak. I wanna beat then not only in a straight line but around the track so, I'm thinking a 1000 rwhp plus turning 8000 grand will do. Will I have 20k in the car plus yes and it sounds like fun
Using procomp heads and OBX headers tells me already you are going the budget route to do this. That is the wrong way to achieve this goal that you are trying to accomplish. You will have more problems and headaches with all of the brick walls you are going to run into. To get a good intake to breathe at 8000 rpms is going to cost you more than what the heads and headers you are going to buy. You need to do more research on what it takes to make a motor turn 8-8500 in a turbo application because what you have isn't it. Either you need to scale it back or spend the money in the right places.
I would go solid roller and destroke the your 6.0 along with stud girdle, a sheet metal intake and God only knows what kind of heads. Maybe C5R heads. You may need to go distributor style ignition driven off the camshaft as well to get it to spin up like that. You would almost be better just running 25 psi and gearing it a little taller lol