building a ls1 bottom end for boost, what to get
building a ls1 bottom end for boost, what to get i have a rod bearing on its way out (slight knock) so i parked the car so i can rebuild it. it is currently 100% stock ls1. assuming the crank is reusable. what would u guys suggest for rods, pistons, bearings. I was running 8 psi on the stock block, since im "building" the block, i assume id be able to run 14-16 psi safely. probably looking for 650-750rwhp.
just your normal stuff. I personally have an AES 390. Callies Compstar crank, Callies H-beam rods with arp2000 bolts, and -15cc Diamond pistons. good bearings. head studs/main studs. im shooting for 1000rwhp.
From everything i have read over last few months it seems that if your looking for a somewhat budget build get the newer 2005 rods, forged pistons and have it all balanced because its heavier rods, different weight pistons. Of course use arp head studs and good rod bolts.
I had a knock on my stock motor the crank was trash so I made it easy and inexpensive by ordering a forged rotating assembly with a stock crank already prebalanced. Did bearings and rings myself and block was done locally. I assembled it as well and spent less than 4 grand. Did arp bolts and main studs as well abd new melling oil pump.
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Weisco Pistons or similar with an offset gudgeon (much quieter with FI piston clearance) Eagle or callies rods with ARP 2000 fasteners, race series bearings, ARP mains and Head studs, mellings oil pump, Tie-bar lifters, chromolley push rods, turbo cam, double row timing chain, dble valve springs, LS9 head gaskets, Sump baffel plate.
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I plan do a somewhat budget minded 347 myself. diamond 3.905 -8.6cc pistons (already have), 6.125 callies h-beam rods, stock crank, arp main and heads studs. Something along those lines shouldn't have a problem holding the power your looking to make. Pretty much what most have said above
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If you are going to do it right... you should start with an LS2 block for the 4.0" bore which opens up your valve size options.
A stock LS2 block, stock crank, good forged rods/pistons and heads that flow well (TFS, AFR, AllPro etc) with an LS6 intake should have no problem making 1000rwhp with enuf inj and turbo/supercharger. Boost is addicting... you will want to turn it up after running it for a while. Trust me!
For a street driven high HP boost car it has also been mentioned a few times that an LS1 block over time (3-5K miles) can lose ring seal due to the bores getting out of round. Remedy is tear it down, light hone... new rings.... and then it is good for another 3-5K miles.... until it can happen again. This is more at the 800rwhp+ level. Do a search for it.
A stock LS2 block, stock crank, good forged rods/pistons and heads that flow well (TFS, AFR, AllPro etc) with an LS6 intake should have no problem making 1000rwhp with enuf inj and turbo/supercharger. Boost is addicting... you will want to turn it up after running it for a while. Trust me!
For a street driven high HP boost car it has also been mentioned a few times that an LS1 block over time (3-5K miles) can lose ring seal due to the bores getting out of round. Remedy is tear it down, light hone... new rings.... and then it is good for another 3-5K miles.... until it can happen again. This is more at the 800rwhp+ level. Do a search for it.
For a street driven high HP boost car it has also been mentioned a few times that an LS1 block over time (3-5K miles) can lose ring seal due to the bores getting out of round. Remedy is tear it down, light hone... new rings.... and then it is good for another 3-5K miles.... until it can happen again. This is more at the 800rwhp+ level. Do a search for it.
edit: Or is this coming from a high ratio of high revving/race miles?
