awd-rwd racer

iTrader: (16)

i have a rod bearing on its way out (slight knock) so i parked the car so i can rebuild it. it is currently 100% stock ls1. assuming the crank is reusable. what would u guys suggest for rods, pistons, bearings. I was running 8 psi on the stock block, since im "building" the block, i assume id be able to run 14-16 psi safely. probably looking for 650-750rwhp.

allout06

iTrader: (11)

just your normal stuff. I personally have an AES 390. Callies Compstar crank, Callies H-beam rods with arp2000 bolts, and -15cc Diamond pistons. good bearings. head studs/main studs. im shooting for 1000rwhp.

dans94z28

iTrader: (2)

From everything i have read over last few months it seems that if your looking for a somewhat budget build get the newer 2005 rods, forged pistons and have it all balanced because its heavier rods, different weight pistons. Of course use arp head studs and good rod bolts.

Silver_TransAm

iTrader: (2)

I had a knock on my stock motor the crank was trash so I made it easy and inexpensive by ordering a forged rotating assembly with a stock crank already prebalanced. Did bearings and rings myself and block was done locally. I assembled it as well and spent less than 4 grand. Did arp bolts and main studs as well abd new melling oil pump.

HRHohio

Yowsa! 4k!

Hate to say it, but if it were me, I'd pick up a complete L33 Aluminum Block 5.3 for $1200 and put the rest of the money into Heads/Cam and Turbo. Can't help otherwise, sorry.

Johnv

Weisco Pistons or similar with an offset gudgeon (much quieter with FI piston clearance) Eagle or callies rods with ARP 2000 fasteners, race series bearings, ARP mains and Head studs, mellings oil pump, Tie-bar lifters, chromolley push rods, turbo cam, double row timing chain, dble valve springs, LS9 head gaskets, Sump baffel plate.

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

Wiseco pistons, callies rods, stock crank, arp rod bolts, main studs and head studs. Make sure the assembly and machine work is done by a very reputable shop.

02LS1ram

iTrader: (17)

I plan do a somewhat budget minded 347 myself. diamond 3.905 -8.6cc pistons (already have), 6.125 callies h-beam rods, stock crank, arp main and heads studs. Something along those lines shouldn't have a problem holding the power your looking to make. Pretty much what most have said above

gnx7

iTrader: (28)

If you are going to do it right... you should start with an LS2 block for the 4.0" bore which opens up your valve size options.

A stock LS2 block, stock crank, good forged rods/pistons and heads that flow well (TFS, AFR, AllPro etc) with an LS6 intake should have no problem making 1000rwhp with enuf inj and turbo/supercharger. Boost is addicting... you will want to turn it up after running it for a while. Trust me!

For a street driven high HP boost car it has also been mentioned a few times that an LS1 block over time (3-5K miles) can lose ring seal due to the bores getting out of round. Remedy is tear it down, light hone... new rings.... and then it is good for another 3-5K miles.... until it can happen again. This is more at the 800rwhp+ level. Do a search for it.

toslow5o

iTrader: (4)

I don't doubt at all that this happens but is this really to be expected that regularly? 3-5K repeatedly is a ton of upkeep.

edit: Or is this coming from a high ratio of high revving/race miles?

Moon Cricket

iTrader: (1)

a 383 at LEAST lol!

Camper

iTrader: (1)

deciding on crank & rods is fairly simple, but you need to figure out your goal for CR and plan your fuel accordingly and then decide on Pistons.