someone post their D1 small pully dyno graph
someone post their D1 small pully dyno graph This may sound crazy but im having a weird itch to buy a 03-04 cobra just for the simple fact they make such instant TQ and seem fun to drive around town ect. I currently have a D1/stock bottom SS making 640/540. The only thing i dont like is you have to turn it up a few rpm's to make it sit you back in the seat and doesn't have that low end grunt. Im curious to see what peoples dyno graphs look like with built 347 or 370 with a small blower pully such as a 3.40 ect (much more low end boost that I currently make) to see how much low end torque they make. I have a 4.25 blower pully currently. I may just build a motor instead of the cobra route.
What gears are you running? I have 3.73s and the reason I ask is because I have a 4.00" pulley, make 15psi max, and it's got plenty of low end grunt, enough to spin 305 R888s in second as soon as I roll into the throttle enough to close the bypass and make boost.
I would go down in pulley size if the motor can handle it, or swap rear gears if you really want to have fun.
I would go down in pulley size if the motor can handle it, or swap rear gears if you really want to have fun.
You could add meth with a smaller pulley, and shift sooner. This would get the blower rpms up in the lower engine rpms and shifting sooner would help the bottom end live a little longer.
could run a smaller pulley and run an inlet restrictor so you have more boost down low from the smaller pulley but the restrictor limits the amount of boost . Ecs does this with their kits and it would help .
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I think y'all may be missing my point. I don't mind building a motor but I'm trying to decide between buying a 03 04 cobra or building a motor. What I really want to see is how much low end tq people are making with built 347/370 and small pulley d1 combos. If tq comes in early close to a roots blower on a cobra I will just build a motor and go that route.
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Verdad Gallardo Just remember, too much low end torque just results in spinning tires, which is cool for like 5 minutes, then it's annoying because you realize that you are actually slower than if you had traction and weren't spinning your tires.
Maybe it's just my setup, but I'm making more low end torque than I know what to do with. Like I said, any boost at all in 1st or 2nd and I get wheel spin. I'm talking rolling along at 25mph in 2nd gear at 2500rpm and if I get on it, it's instant wheel spin.
Watch the end of this video and you'll see/hear what I'm talking about. I pulled out of my neighborhood, and rolled into second gear and instantly hit redline.
Fast forward to like 2:15 seconds.
Maybe it's just my setup, but I'm making more low end torque than I know what to do with. Like I said, any boost at all in 1st or 2nd and I get wheel spin. I'm talking rolling along at 25mph in 2nd gear at 2500rpm and if I get on it, it's instant wheel spin.
Watch the end of this video and you'll see/hear what I'm talking about. I pulled out of my neighborhood, and rolled into second gear and instantly hit redline.
Fast forward to like 2:15 seconds.
Were getting into what I want to see now. First gear is useless now. Second will spin if my nitto drag radials are cold at upper rpms. If I go the built motor route I plan on going to a much longer gear. Maybe a 3.55 to help with wheel spin.
I went to a F1c after the D1. Made 810 on 16lbs. GOIng back to a D1. I do not race my car. Just a toy and burnout machine. So a D1 maxxed a tad over 700 is perfect for me. My car is also 10.5 to 1 when I had the D1 on it so it was not a low compression slouch.
Not really I just thought i was wasting it. A lot of money in a head unit that i did not need nor I would ever use to its potential. Had it been a f1a i would of kept it. I originally only bought the f1c it used because it came with everything big red race valve and the aster bracket. That is the only reason why i bought it. Other than that street driving was fine with it.
I had the Aster bracket, yes worth the money. I now have an F1r