slocaddy

"sorry about the shoes" love your builds and simple approach/solutions to your projects. notice it was the ford part that broke......just sayin'......

slowbu

iTrader: (4)

Man that sucks on the rearend deal, wish I would have thought about it before now to tell u to welded the axle tubes, cause I remember now that was the first thing I did when I swapped one in my truck

denmah

iTrader: (2)

picked up #2

stangtrader

iTrader: (2)

Man I didnt know they do that.guess im gonna have to weld mine in the car

02LS1ram

iTrader: (17)

You showed that rear who's boss lol. I'd like to see the video of the wheel hop when it went, I must have been a good one lol

69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

Wheel hop is murder on just about anything no matter how strong the part is. Welding the tubes will def help, but you kinda have to know what your doing when welding cast iron to steel.

denmah

iTrader: (2)

95bowtie

Wheel hop is no joke. I own a 600whp 04 gto with that damn irs and that's all it does even with bushings, anti wheel hop axles, and drag bags.

Suprfreac

Here's what I dug up when trying to preserve my Chevy rearends:

http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showth...ing+axle+tubes

Looks like I'm a little late to the show, but I hope it helps others...

testament

wow that is overkill in this kind of application. yes in an engineering sense it's how it really should be done if maximum strength of that weld was actually required - but really if you just cleaned it up with a grinder/wire wheel then used a stick welder with plenty of amps would be 70% as strong and still 500% stronger than neccesary probably.

doing it with a regular mig is a bit so/so and would benefit with heating up the housing as you just cant get the heat through the skinny mig wire enough really. but something is better than nothing and adds to whatever the factory weld/press fit can take.

leonpiper69

iTrader: (3)

got be instant center issue. have you done a rough guess of where you instant center is?

denmah

iTrader: (2)

well swapping in an 8.8 ruins it.
the control arm upper ears are lower, making the upper control arm angle totally in the opposite direction it should be, i might make my own drop brackets for the upper control arms to get that 20-25% angle downward slope that i basically have opposite of haha

also people said cheap solution is lower the car to fix the UCA bad angle and see if that fixes it. but not sure i wanna do that

78buturbo

iTrader: (1)

baselinesuspension & TRZ motorsports both sell upper controlarm brackets with multiple holes for adjustment hope that helps.

nocooler

iTrader: (5)

Just watched your latest youtube video.

G-body's are notorious for the body not being square on the frame.

Measure from the frame to the center of your tires on each side - that will let you know if the rear is centered in the frame.

If it is you can try to loosen the body bolts and center the body on the frame.

merim123

iTrader: (11)

this thing is all sorts of bad luck so far, that sucks.

burn it and do a volvo already

denmah

iTrader: (2)

this thing cruises nice with real tires instead of slicks on it hahah
3.73 are noticably shorter

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

You can make some drop mounts for the uppers on the frame side out of box tubing. Use one bit on the inside of the mount and a larger bit welded to the first for the control arm to bolt to. Of course the larger bit the control arm bolts to needs to be open on one side so the arm has somewhere to sit. You could weld them in or bolt them in until you get the angle like you desire. I've done this before and it works pretty well. I dug about the internet and found a couple pictures for you.

What you are trying to make looks like this and would go on the frame side of the upper control arm in the original location:


Different approach to the same concept and installed:


In the last picture you can see the original holes on the frame and how far down he went. You should not have to go anywhere near that far for your needs.

leonpiper69

iTrader: (3)

are the upper mounts the same on the mustang and lincoln rear? i was looking at this kit instead of the ebay control arms, http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/kits/chevy.htm

but it says for mustang 8.8. this would offer the adjustability to solve the wheel hop i would think.

denmah

iTrader: (2)

throws belts like a beast
here is me rolling 4th gear lightly then rolling out and it chucks it right off
i have a tensioner and a new belt on the way to see if that fixes it, the damn tensioner must be worn out and cant rebound fast enough...

also i will look into that relocation thing you posted thank you!

Accrdwgnguy

Nice. Is that an Ultragage you have rigged up there? I was going to get one for my gf's LQ4 81 Z28 until we get all the stock gauges working.