Procharger Blow off valve question?
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From: Norn Iron
But you dont state your application to even guess as to whether you need it or not.
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Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Virginia - Where Rednecks and Presidents Come From
It depends on your belt drive capabilities and what kind of torque/hp curve you're looking for.
IF you have a belt/pulley setup that can run more boost without slipping, it's beneficial to add a BOV and get a smaller headunit pulley to make more "potential" boost.
For example, if your setup currently peaks at 8psi @ redline, then you don't get a big gain on boost 'til the top end of your revs. But, if change your set-up's potential boost to say 15psi @ redline (if there's no BOV installed), but DO install a BOV that opens at 8psi, you'll still be keeping your motor safe, but will achieve the 8lbs of boost sooner in your RPM range. Oh, and the sound is fu*#ing awesome, too!
Essentially, you'll have the bypass to prevent residual boost buildup, and the BOV as a max-level failsafe.
WARNING: IF the BOV ever fails and doesn't release at the correct pressure, you risk detonation and/or a blown engine! So, keep everything very clean, and always a sharp eye on your Boost and A/F Gauges!
IF you have a belt/pulley setup that can run more boost without slipping, it's beneficial to add a BOV and get a smaller headunit pulley to make more "potential" boost.
For example, if your setup currently peaks at 8psi @ redline, then you don't get a big gain on boost 'til the top end of your revs. But, if change your set-up's potential boost to say 15psi @ redline (if there's no BOV installed), but DO install a BOV that opens at 8psi, you'll still be keeping your motor safe, but will achieve the 8lbs of boost sooner in your RPM range. Oh, and the sound is fu*#ing awesome, too!
Essentially, you'll have the bypass to prevent residual boost buildup, and the BOV as a max-level failsafe.
WARNING: IF the BOV ever fails and doesn't release at the correct pressure, you risk detonation and/or a blown engine! So, keep everything very clean, and always a sharp eye on your Boost and A/F Gauges!
Last edited by ss2000silverbullet; Jul 3, 2013 at 08:47 PM.
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Verdad Gallardo It depends on your belt drive capabilities and what kind of torque/hp curve you're looking for.
IF you have a belt/pulley setup that can run more boost without slipping, it's beneficial to add a BOV and get a smaller headunit pulley to make more "potential" boost.
For example, if your setup currently peaks at 8psi @ redline, then you don't get a big gain on boost 'til the top end of your revs. But, if change your set-up's potential boost to say 15psi @ redline (if there's no BOV installed), but DO install a BOV that opens at 8psi, you'll still be keeping your motor safe, but will achieve the 8lbs of boost sooner in your RPM range. Oh, and the sound is fu*#ing awesome, too!
Essentially, you'll have the bypass to prevent residual boost buildup, and the BOV as a max-level failsafe.
WARNING: IF the BOV ever fails and doesn't release at the correct pressure, you risk detonation and/or a blown engine! So, keep everything very clean, and always a sharp eye on your Boost and A/F Gauges!
IF you have a belt/pulley setup that can run more boost without slipping, it's beneficial to add a BOV and get a smaller headunit pulley to make more "potential" boost.
For example, if your setup currently peaks at 8psi @ redline, then you don't get a big gain on boost 'til the top end of your revs. But, if change your set-up's potential boost to say 15psi @ redline (if there's no BOV installed), but DO install a BOV that opens at 8psi, you'll still be keeping your motor safe, but will achieve the 8lbs of boost sooner in your RPM range. Oh, and the sound is fu*#ing awesome, too!
Essentially, you'll have the bypass to prevent residual boost buildup, and the BOV as a max-level failsafe.
WARNING: IF the BOV ever fails and doesn't release at the correct pressure, you risk detonation and/or a blown engine! So, keep everything very clean, and always a sharp eye on your Boost and A/F Gauges!
I think you are confusing how a wastegated Supercharged setups works and not a blow or valve or by pass valve works
It depends on your belt drive capabilities and what kind of torque/hp curve you're looking for.
IF you have a belt/pulley setup that can run more boost without slipping, it's beneficial to add a BOV and get a smaller headunit pulley to make more "potential" boost.
For example, if your setup currently peaks at 8psi @ redline, then you don't get a big gain on boost 'til the top end of your revs. But, if change your set-up's potential boost to say 15psi @ redline (if there's no BOV installed), but DO install a BOV that opens at 8psi, you'll still be keeping your motor safe, but will achieve the 8lbs of boost sooner in your RPM range. Oh, and the sound is fu*#ing awesome, too!
Essentially, you'll have the bypass to prevent residual boost buildup, and the BOV as a max-level failsafe.
WARNING: IF the BOV ever fails and doesn't release at the correct pressure, you risk detonation and/or a blown engine! So, keep everything very clean, and always a sharp eye on your Boost and A/F Gauges!
IF you have a belt/pulley setup that can run more boost without slipping, it's beneficial to add a BOV and get a smaller headunit pulley to make more "potential" boost.
For example, if your setup currently peaks at 8psi @ redline, then you don't get a big gain on boost 'til the top end of your revs. But, if change your set-up's potential boost to say 15psi @ redline (if there's no BOV installed), but DO install a BOV that opens at 8psi, you'll still be keeping your motor safe, but will achieve the 8lbs of boost sooner in your RPM range. Oh, and the sound is fu*#ing awesome, too!
Essentially, you'll have the bypass to prevent residual boost buildup, and the BOV as a max-level failsafe.
WARNING: IF the BOV ever fails and doesn't release at the correct pressure, you risk detonation and/or a blown engine! So, keep everything very clean, and always a sharp eye on your Boost and A/F Gauges!
Use what you want ... u can recirculate it with a bypass valve or just vent it to the atmosphere with a BOV... they perform the same basic function, to release pressure built up in the charge piping to prevent compressor surge.
It depends on your belt drive capabilities and what kind of torque/hp curve you're looking for.
IF you have a belt/pulley setup that can run more boost without slipping, it's beneficial to add a BOV and get a smaller headunit pulley to make more "potential" boost.
For example, if your setup currently peaks at 8psi @ redline, then you don't get a big gain on boost 'til the top end of your revs. But, if change your set-up's potential boost to say 15psi @ redline (if there's no BOV installed), but DO install a BOV that opens at 8psi, you'll still be keeping your motor safe, but will achieve the 8lbs of boost sooner in your RPM range. Oh, and the sound is fu*#ing awesome, too!
Essentially, you'll have the bypass to prevent residual boost buildup, and the BOV as a max-level failsafe.
WARNING: IF the BOV ever fails and doesn't release at the correct pressure, you risk detonation and/or a blown engine! So, keep everything very clean, and always a sharp eye on your Boost and A/F Gauges!
IF you have a belt/pulley setup that can run more boost without slipping, it's beneficial to add a BOV and get a smaller headunit pulley to make more "potential" boost.
For example, if your setup currently peaks at 8psi @ redline, then you don't get a big gain on boost 'til the top end of your revs. But, if change your set-up's potential boost to say 15psi @ redline (if there's no BOV installed), but DO install a BOV that opens at 8psi, you'll still be keeping your motor safe, but will achieve the 8lbs of boost sooner in your RPM range. Oh, and the sound is fu*#ing awesome, too!
Essentially, you'll have the bypass to prevent residual boost buildup, and the BOV as a max-level failsafe.
WARNING: IF the BOV ever fails and doesn't release at the correct pressure, you risk detonation and/or a blown engine! So, keep everything very clean, and always a sharp eye on your Boost and A/F Gauges!
Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Virginia - Where Rednecks and Presidents Come From
My apologies....How 'bout a "Boost Limiting Valve". BLV, not BOV.
You're right, it's a substitute for a wastegate/boost controller....but looks like a glorified blowoff valve to me.
Here's a link so y'all don't think I'm completely stupid or insane!
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/...mitervalve.php
You're right, it's a substitute for a wastegate/boost controller....but looks like a glorified blowoff valve to me.
Here's a link so y'all don't think I'm completely stupid or insane!
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/...mitervalve.php
Last edited by ss2000silverbullet; Jul 4, 2013 at 12:07 AM.
I'd keep it set up just the way you have it. Bob
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PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
digging an old thread.
so if I have this correct- the BOV for a pro charger should be wide open at idle and manifold vaccum and close when manifold pressure get near atmospheric. correct?
so you run a light spring so that the BOV is 'sucked' open during idle and low load but the spring is strong enough to close as soon as manifold pressure approaches ambient.
and from above it looks like on a 50mm BOV a 2-6psi spring is adequate?
I'm installing a P1SC on a 5.7 and I'd like to run blowoff instead of a bypass. Just trying to figure out the ins and outs.
Thanks!
so if I have this correct- the BOV for a pro charger should be wide open at idle and manifold vaccum and close when manifold pressure get near atmospheric. correct?
so you run a light spring so that the BOV is 'sucked' open during idle and low load but the spring is strong enough to close as soon as manifold pressure approaches ambient.
and from above it looks like on a 50mm BOV a 2-6psi spring is adequate?
I'm installing a P1SC on a 5.7 and I'd like to run blowoff instead of a bypass. Just trying to figure out the ins and outs.
Thanks!
digging an old thread.
so if I have this correct- the BOV for a pro charger should be wide open at idle and manifold vaccum and close when manifold pressure get near atmospheric. correct?
so you run a light spring so that the BOV is 'sucked' open during idle and low load but the spring is strong enough to close as soon as manifold pressure approaches ambient.
and from above it looks like on a 50mm BOV a 2-6psi spring is adequate?
I'm installing a P1SC on a 5.7 and I'd like to run blowoff instead of a bypass. Just trying to figure out the ins and outs.
Thanks!
so if I have this correct- the BOV for a pro charger should be wide open at idle and manifold vaccum and close when manifold pressure get near atmospheric. correct?
so you run a light spring so that the BOV is 'sucked' open during idle and low load but the spring is strong enough to close as soon as manifold pressure approaches ambient.
and from above it looks like on a 50mm BOV a 2-6psi spring is adequate?
I'm installing a P1SC on a 5.7 and I'd like to run blowoff instead of a bypass. Just trying to figure out the ins and outs.
Thanks!
not the info I am looking for- albeit the bypass has to close sometime BEFORE positive gauge pressure is reached or it wouldn't close at all.
I understand how the bypass works.
I am curious about blowoff valves and setting them up.
I understand how the bypass works.
I am curious about blowoff valves and setting them up.
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