low/rear mounted turbo oil check valve?
#1
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hey guys i have been running my rear mount ket for a few months now and im staring to see oil in the ex. housing and in the compressor housing. the car doesnt smoke while its runing but it will if it sits over night in startup.
im guessing this is due to the face that i dont have a one way/check valve in my feed or drain lines.
what valves are you guys using? what presser valves? and do you use them on both the feed and the drain?
thanks for the help guys!
im guessing this is due to the face that i dont have a one way/check valve in my feed or drain lines.
what valves are you guys using? what presser valves? and do you use them on both the feed and the drain?
thanks for the help guys!
#6
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You would want to use one in the feed right before the turbo and the return right after the pump to be safe.
Wouldn't hurt to build a small sump that attaches to the bottom of the turbo. It only needs to hold maybe a half qt. But that will make it so there is no way it can pool in the turbo unless you have a pump failure.
Wouldn't hurt to build a small sump that attaches to the bottom of the turbo. It only needs to hold maybe a half qt. But that will make it so there is no way it can pool in the turbo unless you have a pump failure.
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#8
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I second the sump, but you shouldn't need a half quart! 3-4oz should be fine. You can also install a timer on your sump pump. That way after the motor ***** down the pump continues to run for a little while to clear out the sump/lines. Some use a turbo timer, but any 12v timer with a relay should work fine.
#9
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I have tried the sump route already as well as the self contained oil system. Both were a big fail.
With a tt setup u need 1 pump for each sump. I tryed everything to make one pump work with 2 sumps and it was a losing battle.
And I don't want to buy another 400$ pump
With a tt setup u need 1 pump for each sump. I tryed everything to make one pump work with 2 sumps and it was a losing battle.
And I don't want to buy another 400$ pump
#10
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Pictures of your setup?
No you don't. One pump should handle more than enough volume for two turbos. What is the flow rate on your pump? Also make sure you are within the manufacturer tolerances for pressure and volume on the supply.
#11
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the pump flows more then enough. the problem with Ying it to 2 sumps.
no mater how i had it set up it would end up emptying one sump faster then the other. as
soon as that happens the pump sucks air. after it sucks air it will not pick up the oil in the other line and the sumps over flow.
i tried alot of ways around it but all to no avail.
the bottom line is the best you to do it is with a 2nd pump.
but the way i have it is working great i just think it needs some check valves to keep the oil from back feeding into the turbo when the car is not running
no mater how i had it set up it would end up emptying one sump faster then the other. as
soon as that happens the pump sucks air. after it sucks air it will not pick up the oil in the other line and the sumps over flow.
i tried alot of ways around it but all to no avail.
the bottom line is the best you to do it is with a 2nd pump.
but the way i have it is working great i just think it needs some check valves to keep the oil from back feeding into the turbo when the car is not running
#12
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So Forcefed, what you're saying is, one turbowerx exa pump Y'ed on a twin setup should be ok to do? I was thinking of doing this but wasn't sure if it would work. Y'ing the feed should be ok too?
#14
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Thanks forcefed I'm building a TT LT1 and was wondering if I was going to have to buy 2 pumps. Question should I run -10 lines from the turbos to the sump then a -12 back to the engine or what???
#15
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Personally I'd measure the ID of the drains on the turbo's themselves. Then run a hose with an ID no smaller than that into the sump. The line going from the pump back to the pan doesn't need to be large, it will have pressure to help move it along.
#16
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I just used a -10an Check valve on my drain drain side. No need for a turbo timer ect. Lol all. You have to do is cycle the key or just leave ignition on for like 5-10 secs. I don't have any smoking issues with my remote gt45
#18
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Yeah, the return line goes uphill to my oil fill cap. Once you shut off the engine there's a possibility the oil can flow back down hill to the turbo and "pool up" overnight.
I haven't had any issues with the setup.
I haven't had any issues with the setup.
#19
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I must not be picturing this correctly. You shouldn't put a check valve on a gravity drain. There should never be any pressure in a turbos drain line or pump inlet. If there is, you will have problems.
If you meant a check valve on the outlet (pressure side) of the scavenge pump then that’s fine.
If you meant a check valve on the outlet (pressure side) of the scavenge pump then that’s fine.
#20
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I must not be picturing this correctly. You shouldn't put a check valve on a gravity drain. There should never be any pressure in a turbos drain line or pump inlet. If there is, you will have problems.
If you meant a check valve on the outlet (pressure side) of the scavenge pump then that’s fine.
If you meant a check valve on the outlet (pressure side) of the scavenge pump then that’s fine.