Twin Turbo LSX Datsun 280Z
#781
#784
http://www.catherineandken.co.uk/sti/tyres.html is usually what I use. Just plug in 1:1 for one of the ratios and 275/60/15 for tire size. It's not as comprehensive but it seems to be way more accurate lol.
#786
#789
Launching!
iTrader: (1)
Give NTX Coverter a call. I spoke with them once about an 80e. There super cool and will explain everything, and will build you somthing for whatever you need. Price might be more than you want to spend, but they will at least help you figure out if what you want is possible.
#790
8.8/9" IRS swap is the most logical step here. You get strength with a bunch of gear choices. For not that much money
Better if to cut the losses now with the r200
Better if to cut the losses now with the r200
#791
9 Second Club
What most auto guys do and what Z says, you need a taller diff.
Most fast auto guys end up in the 2.x range for a final drive to give them some top end ability
AFAIK you can get an 8.8 down to around 3.08, although the gears dont seem that common. Viper rear would be 3.08 too.
Most fast auto guys end up in the 2.x range for a final drive to give them some top end ability
AFAIK you can get an 8.8 down to around 3.08, although the gears dont seem that common. Viper rear would be 3.08 too.
#792
What most auto guys do and what Z says, you need a taller diff.
Most fast auto guys end up in the 2.x range for a final drive to give them some top end ability
AFAIK you can get an 8.8 down to around 3.08, although the gears dont seem that common. Viper rear would be 3.08 too.
Most fast auto guys end up in the 2.x range for a final drive to give them some top end ability
AFAIK you can get an 8.8 down to around 3.08, although the gears dont seem that common. Viper rear would be 3.08 too.
I ran across a thread last night where a guy married a 2.94 Nissan Armada R&P set with a R230 300ZXTT diff. Those diffs are massive @ 9.05". At this point there is nothing else I can do minus tearing everything out and either back halving the car or trying to engineer an 8.8 setup.. Looks like I'm going Armada/300ZX diff shopping today.
#794
8 Second Club
iTrader: (4)
You have to put it all into perspective. You are racing 300k+ super cars. 10k worth of trans. parts is a drop in the bucket to those guys. You can’t expect budget parts to hold up to 1300whp reliably.
I’ve seen used aftermarket case glides for $1500 or less quite a few times. Same with GV units. Ebay usually has a few. If you’re on a budget, you need to look to used stuff and learn how to go through it/rebuild it. The glide is by far the easiest auto trans to work on that will hold up at 1300whp. If you don’t’ want to redo the rear, the glide/GV unit is the cheapest option that can handle 2k worth of power. Also if your doing roll racing, you may get away with a stock case for a few years. I paid $700 for my stock case glide with all the goodies. 3 years of T-brake launches... so far so good.
The GV unit on a glide is no longer than a standard TH400… A .78 final gear would give you some healthy top end, even with the 3.54's.
https://gearsplitter.wordpress.com/2...ur-powerglide/
I’ve seen used aftermarket case glides for $1500 or less quite a few times. Same with GV units. Ebay usually has a few. If you’re on a budget, you need to look to used stuff and learn how to go through it/rebuild it. The glide is by far the easiest auto trans to work on that will hold up at 1300whp. If you don’t’ want to redo the rear, the glide/GV unit is the cheapest option that can handle 2k worth of power. Also if your doing roll racing, you may get away with a stock case for a few years. I paid $700 for my stock case glide with all the goodies. 3 years of T-brake launches... so far so good.
The GV unit on a glide is no longer than a standard TH400… A .78 final gear would give you some healthy top end, even with the 3.54's.
https://gearsplitter.wordpress.com/2...ur-powerglide/
Last edited by Forcefed86; 04-21-2015 at 11:33 AM.
#796
You have to put it all into perspective. You are racing 300k+ super cars. 10k worth of trans. parts is a drop in the bucket to those guys. You can’t expect budget parts to hold up to 1300whp reliably.
I’ve seen used aftermarket case glides for $1500 or less quite a few times. Same with GV units. Ebay usually has a few. If you’re on a budget, you need to look to used stuff and learn how to go through it/rebuild it. The glide is by far the easiest auto trans to work on that will hold up at 1300whp. If you don’t’ want to redo the rear, the glide/GV unit is the cheapest option that can handle 2k worth of power. Also if your doing roll racing, you may get away with a stock case for a few years. I paid $700 for my stock case glide with all the goodies. 3 years of T-brake launches... so far so good.
The GV unit on a glide is no longer than a standard TH400… A .78 final gear would give you some healthy top end, even with the 3.54's.
https://gearsplitter.wordpress.com/2...ur-powerglide/
I’ve seen used aftermarket case glides for $1500 or less quite a few times. Same with GV units. Ebay usually has a few. If you’re on a budget, you need to look to used stuff and learn how to go through it/rebuild it. The glide is by far the easiest auto trans to work on that will hold up at 1300whp. If you don’t’ want to redo the rear, the glide/GV unit is the cheapest option that can handle 2k worth of power. Also if your doing roll racing, you may get away with a stock case for a few years. I paid $700 for my stock case glide with all the goodies. 3 years of T-brake launches... so far so good.
The GV unit on a glide is no longer than a standard TH400… A .78 final gear would give you some healthy top end, even with the 3.54's.
https://gearsplitter.wordpress.com/2...ur-powerglide/
Also is the GV unit on the back of a "shorty" glide? that looks like it would fit the tunnel nicely, If not i would make it fit.
#797
9 Second Club
or just take a chance and keep running the existing setup
#800
Using a 4L80E with my 3:54 gear will net me the same speeds as the glide. Not being able to go WOT in OD with 80E pushes me away. besides being able to "cruise" whats the point of it?
Now a glide with an OD i can actually hammer on is the answer for me.. I keep my rear end intact, I get a great low gear out of the hole, I minimize shifts ans I still get to use all that power up top and i can cruise the car.. WINNING!