Where to hook up wastegate/bov vacuum lines?
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Where to hook up wastegate/bov vacuum lines?
I am in the process of installing the Mighty Mouse PVC catch can and am stuck with how to route the wastegate/bov vacuum lines. Can anyone tell me how they ran their lines? I know where to route the lines for catch can because mm has a diagram. Just don't want to redo everything because of the wastegate/bov. Pictures would be best. Thanks.
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i ran my wastegate reference before the throttle body and bov/ boost gauge to a vacuum block that i T'eed of the brake booster line. some people say it matters with the wastegate only "seeing" boost some say it doesn't.
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i tapped into the charge pipe after the intercooler/before the bov and put a fitting on so i could run my hose from there to the wastegate. just tapped the pipe and ran a barbed fitting in it.
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If I can simplify things by running everything off a vacuum block that I can T into the booster line I will do that to make things easier on me. Does it matter what size lines I run? I bought a lot of 3/8 hose but I see that the vacuum blocks I'm looking at have 1/4 fittings for hooking up my lines. It does have the 3/8 where it will T in.
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So this is what I am thinking. There is a line from the tb to one of the pass side ports on the valve cover which I think I can leave. One line from catch can to intake. The other port from catch can to a port on the pass side valve cover. Port on drivers valve cover goes to turbo compressor. Wastegate/bov get T'd into brake booster line.
Anybody think this will work or do I need to change things up? Thanks in advance.
Anybody think this will work or do I need to change things up? Thanks in advance.
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This may help. Used a MM PCV Catch Can too.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...rbo-build.html
Here are some extra notes I sent a guy too.
No problem Jeremy! Of course start with locating your BOV, WG and Catch Can. I bought some silicon vacuum line off eBay from a USA seller due to its high temperature resistance and longevity for my boost lines and vacuum lines. Lets start with the Catch Can, once mounted I sourced my vacuum from right behind the throttle body at the 3/8" nipple on the intake and ran that to my catch can (I used a Mighty Mouse PCV can and would highly suggest using one too!) to the PCV check valve on my can (keeps boost out of the engine and pushing seals out). I the took the factory hard plastic PCV line and took the PCV valve and rubber hose off (its tough but it will come off) and connected that to the other side of my catch can. By using the hard plastic line you'll be pulling vacuum from the driver side rear and the passenger side rear leaving only the passenger side front open which I put a small Auto Zone filter on but I'd recommend connecting a hose and running it to your turbo inlet/filter if your able, I was not hence the filter. That's it for the catch can. You can use a standard catch can without the check valve as I've seen several guys do it with no issues, I didn't want to take a chance so I went with the Mighty Mouse can.
Boost lines are easy too, I tied into the brake booster line because it was easy, I could hide it and many others have done it and had no issues. You'll need a 1/2"x1/2"x1/4" stainless tee available at Grainger to splice into the booster line. I installed the tee, and then about one foot down the line I spliced in for my boost gauge (you could run this to a 4 or 6 port vacuum block to run your other boost/vacuum referenced accessories) then ran the vacuum line along the inner fender to a 1/4" tee which routed off to the BOV and the WG. I used zip ties at all the connection points to secure the boost lines and plain hose clamps for the catch can lines. I hope this was helpful Jeremy and let me know if you have any more questions!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...rbo-build.html
Here are some extra notes I sent a guy too.
No problem Jeremy! Of course start with locating your BOV, WG and Catch Can. I bought some silicon vacuum line off eBay from a USA seller due to its high temperature resistance and longevity for my boost lines and vacuum lines. Lets start with the Catch Can, once mounted I sourced my vacuum from right behind the throttle body at the 3/8" nipple on the intake and ran that to my catch can (I used a Mighty Mouse PCV can and would highly suggest using one too!) to the PCV check valve on my can (keeps boost out of the engine and pushing seals out). I the took the factory hard plastic PCV line and took the PCV valve and rubber hose off (its tough but it will come off) and connected that to the other side of my catch can. By using the hard plastic line you'll be pulling vacuum from the driver side rear and the passenger side rear leaving only the passenger side front open which I put a small Auto Zone filter on but I'd recommend connecting a hose and running it to your turbo inlet/filter if your able, I was not hence the filter. That's it for the catch can. You can use a standard catch can without the check valve as I've seen several guys do it with no issues, I didn't want to take a chance so I went with the Mighty Mouse can.
Boost lines are easy too, I tied into the brake booster line because it was easy, I could hide it and many others have done it and had no issues. You'll need a 1/2"x1/2"x1/4" stainless tee available at Grainger to splice into the booster line. I installed the tee, and then about one foot down the line I spliced in for my boost gauge (you could run this to a 4 or 6 port vacuum block to run your other boost/vacuum referenced accessories) then ran the vacuum line along the inner fender to a 1/4" tee which routed off to the BOV and the WG. I used zip ties at all the connection points to secure the boost lines and plain hose clamps for the catch can lines. I hope this was helpful Jeremy and let me know if you have any more questions!
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So this is what I am thinking. There is a line from the tb to one of the pass side ports on the valve cover which I think I can leave. One line from catch can to intake. The other port from catch can to a port on the pass side valve cover. Port on drivers valve cover goes to turbo compressor. Wastegate/bov get T'd into brake booster line.
Anybody think this will work or do I need to change things up? Thanks in advance.
Anybody think this will work or do I need to change things up? Thanks in advance.
For a PCV catch can setup, hook up one location(preferably LS6 valley) to the INLET of the turbo... ie air filter or as close to inlet as possible. This will pull a vacuum during boost.
For FPR and BOV, go to the vacuum block.
Someone step in and correct me if I'm wrong.
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Will this not pressurize the engine any time you're in boost?
For a PCV catch can setup, hook up one location(preferably LS6 valley) to the INLET of the turbo... ie air filter or as close to inlet as possible. This will pull a vacuum during boost.
For FPR and BOV, go to the vacuum block.
Someone step in and correct me if I'm wrong.
For a PCV catch can setup, hook up one location(preferably LS6 valley) to the INLET of the turbo... ie air filter or as close to inlet as possible. This will pull a vacuum during boost.
For FPR and BOV, go to the vacuum block.
Someone step in and correct me if I'm wrong.
#14
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Eh you know Hi-Po I agree with you but I know quite a few guys who are running it that way and pressurizing their crank case. Would I suggest it? No, can you get away with it? Yes. I didn't want to roll the dice so I bought the MM PCV can and I'm glad I did. I couldn't run the line to the turbo inlet as I didn't have room so I just put an Auto Zone filter on the nipple for the valve cover and David at MM said it be fine. I will eventually run something to the turbo inlet how ever.
Edit: I'm not swearing by any particular routing option. The topic is been going on for years and years, run what you think is best or what the project allows
#15
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This is my solution to my temporary inlet problem. Was worried about the fitting being sucked in. Didn't get a chance to test fit the fitting and sheet metal, when I went to remove it everything was so tight I didn't want to mess with it! I think it turned out alright and should perform.
Edit: I'm not swearing by any particular routing option. The topic is been going on for years and years, run what you think is best or what the project allows
Edit: I'm not swearing by any particular routing option. The topic is been going on for years and years, run what you think is best or what the project allows
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I think it's this PN http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...x?prod=RU-2510
Mighty Mouse FTW.
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Long update but I got everything installed correctly the first time. Nothing was hooked up to the turbo compressor. Catch can was hooked to pass side valve cover and the side of the intake. I bought a vacuum block and mounted it to the firewall. Hooked it up in the line that goes from the back of the intake to the brake booster and ran all my 3/8 vacuum lines off of that. Can't think of how each line is routed but if someone needs to know I can go look.