that gap worries me, the fact that the pulley is resting on the center of the crank pulley and not the edges makes me think it's easier to bend it ( more leverage on the bolt) when you tighten the belt.

 

The center of the crank pulley where the bolt goes is the only place that it should touch (except the pins), its the only machined surface on the balancer for the pully to touch. The ATI one is the same, its close but doesnt touch anywhere except whre the bolt is and it fits very snug in there.

 

Well it is almost done, we are stuck trying to put the spring tensioner bolt on. We are trying to get it on now.......my tranny lines definately need trimming now.
looks like I won't be making it to the track today
I'll do a better write up when its all done,
Jeremy

 

What happened to Kyle? Maybe he is having the same problem as me. The crank pulley won't seat correctly on the LS1 balancer. We put the crank pulley up and figured any type of play would be corrected when the crank bolt was torqued to 225lb ft, NOPE. When we started the car, the damn crank pulley was wobbling around, but the crank bolt is still tighter than hell so that isn't it. But when sticking a flat blade screwdriver between the crank pulley and the balancer, it clears on one side but doesn't clear on the other, so that shows it isn't seated right at all.
Well I figured this would be a 2 hour job at the MAX but I am still working on it

 

J if the pulley is wobbling cause it isn't sitting flush and probably never will. You having a 98 like me your probably hosed like me and will need to get a new stock balancer to get the SD pulley to sit flush. Thats what I had to do. I am suprised they didn't warn you about that.


I got a suprise too. Apparantly they have fixed it now but the piece that sits on the bracket as a stop for the tensioner is too wide. didn't notice, fired up the car and shredded the **** out of my belt. @#$@$# $30 down the drain.
Never noticed before cause I had the 6 rib belt on all this time.

so WATCH FOR THAT everyone!!!

I am just pulling the damn stop off. No need for it. If my belt stretched that fricken far it would make zero boost so I would have some clue

 

According to the SD GP e-mail that I received they wouldnt sell the kit without either selling you a new stock balancer or new ATI balancer/bolt on pulley..

 

Kyel says...............Still working on it........... My adjuster tool is to long so we are going to cut it...... i tried to adjust the tension wrong in the beginning and i cracked the tensioner........ i called Scott and he talked to me and my buddy and we are going to try what he said.... Ill be ordering a new tensioner on Monday so ill have it for my friday dyno tune. I have a brand new balancer from before when i destroyed my stock one...... so i shoock mine and it doesnt look like its going to wobble but we will find out here in about 45 Min.......... I must of took the bracket off anf on about 5-6 times...... Scot said not to worry about the crack this secound because i dont need to much tension to keep good belt wrap but im ordering another tensioner first thing monday morning.
Kyle

 

What the hell, this balancer is pretty damn new, it is about a year old because the MMS pulley trashed the spokes of my other one. No warning about that at all.

The stop is the same width as my bracket so I am good there....but I didn't check it out that good cause I saw the crank pulley wobbling like a mother. What I don't understand is how hard is it to get to sit flush. QUIT using the bottom of the balancer, because it seems like no two are the same. Use the face of the balancer to seat the crank pulley and use the bottom of it just as a place for the bolt to tighten down on, Does anyone see what I am talking about? That way the bottom of the the crank pulley doesn't have to be a perfect fit at all, if the face of the balancer was being use to seat it.
J

 

I am glad I only had to put the bracket up once and that was it. It was the spring tensioner that was giving me hell. There is a piece of steel that sticks out the bottom of it that was cut or ground down, well it wasn't ground down enough and I had to dremel it some more to get it to fit correctly. As for adjusting the tension, I guess I am doing it right but I can't get it to tighten up any further for some reason. We left it were it was, but if I grab the belt from the bottom of the car, I can move the spring tensioner down with little effort. I also can slide the belt back and forth by pulling either to the pass side or driver side.

I didn't have to cut my tranny lines they cleared once all the dust settled

I HOPE TO GOD that these belts will last more than 1 or 100 miles, because getting the belt routed takes a minute or two, but not that difficult.

What to do now, dremmel the crank pulley and the stock balancer to try to make them fit?

J

 

The outer edge isnt machined, you could never get it sit flush unless you machined each pulley for the the specific balancer. Plus what would happen if the pulley touched the outer rim and didnt sit flush with where the bolt goes? If you tightened it the center of the pulley would punch out or it would crack the balancer. I have never had one of the ATI pulleys that didnt sit right on the balancer (about 7 so far) so I dont know what is different about the others..

 

My MMS and the 2 crank cogs, both fit this balancer with no wobble. This one wobbles.
I see your point about it not being machined. BUT WHY O WHY couldn't this just go up like the others I am going out to buy a mic' and mic' the crank cog and this pulley to see if one is bigger than the other(where it sits on the LS1 balancer) I'm betting that the SDCE is just a hair bigger that my other cogs.

 

My stock balancer has taken an *** kicking from my old 8 rib and COGS, should I order a new one?

Are SD's instructions good?
I don't plan on installing this stuff this time around.....

Can you guys compile a list of the things to look out for, I'm sure it will at least 1 through 5....

Keep at it guys, I want to see some positive results along w/some road testing

 

Most likely you will just have to bevel the outside edge a bit, once you take it off you will see where its hitting. I wouldnt take too much material off of anything though.

I keep telling you guys to go to the ATI balancer and bolt on pulley, the stock balancer/pin thing is horseshit IMO, especially for what you guys are trying to do - not to mention it wont be NHRA legal if you run quicker then 10.99

 

I would get another one but this one is new and I pinned it from the front. So if I were to get another, I couldn't get the pin hole on the crank to match the pulley.

The instructions are pretty simple, easy to follow. Only one page but doesn't need to be any longer.
Look out for that piece of metal on the spring tensioner, you will know if it is hitting the s/c if your ATI number plate is getting scratched up. I had to dremel it down past a lil piece of rubber that is next to it.

Spacers, I don't know about yours since you have long standoffs.

I am not sure if I am tightening the belt down enough, I see the marks and it looks like I am at 15 but if you look at it from a different angle I am at 10?
Any suggestions?

Be sure to leave the spring tensioner off when bolting the bracket up to the stand offs, leave the middle tensioner loose too.

Watch the routing of the belt, I knew it would be tricky like my old powerdyne and it is. Keep an eye on the pics on the instructions and you will be fine.

The support bracket kicks *** and is very simple, from what I gathered you have your choice of a long bolt or a short bolt, 3 washers or 2 to get the right preload. I tried all the combos, I like the short bolt 3 washer combo best. anyone else?

Now is the time to check your clamps on all your intercooler hoses and ****, my were all loose Time for some t bolt clamps.

This just in, my pops just tried to get the SDCE pulley to fit flush in my old LS1 balancer and damn if it didn't seat right with that one He is on his way to get a mic for me since I am taking to long on the computer lol.

Time to go

 

Jer PM sent reply tonight please....................
Kyle

 

I cant get it to work right...................... I broke the tensioner tool..... the directions DO NOT tell you exactly how to set tension......... i am pissed. I called and talked to Scott and i thought he said put the tool in the crook by the piece of spring that is hanging out and put tension that way..... nothing on the pulley.. no belt no nothing. I had to grind down the tool and it bent and broke......... I thought it would be easy..... guess not...... Im waiting for Jeremy to come back on line and give me his number so we can talk.
Kyle

 

i THINK WE GOT IT........... Thanks to Heath and his buddy....... just got off the phone with them...... Heath we tightened it and for got the belt.... oops...... back out i go........
Kyle

 

NOPE..... I broke the tensioner housing........ damn aluminum....... Ill have to order one on monday and 1 day air it because my dyno appontment is firday... there $90 bucks.... Ill post pics later..... im tired angry and just plain beat....... Its not SD'd fault it broke i was doing it wrong and broke it before i finally figured it out and tightened it and cracked it farther and now its toast.
Kyle

 

doh! sorry to hear that but I'm glad you have it figured out now.

once you get the new one you will be good to go!

bad luck for all of us today. musta been jinxed

 

Damn Buddy, hey I just got your PMs and email too, I was out working on the car or I would have called you ASAP....
Well She is up and running Me and my Dad finished it at around 7:00 and went over everything 3 times before starting it up. We couldn't find a mic to see how much this crank pulley is off, but I have a few pics to show you guys how far off it was.

Here we go..

This is after the first dremeling with an 80 grit flap wheel. As you can see even with us taking off quite abit of material off the pulley, it was still too big. This pic was taken after I put it on and torqued it down to 175lb ft to try to get it to seat. I didn't get a picture of the pulley after the first time we started it, but trust me it was a lot worse




Here is a good pic of the brace




The rest....












In This pic you can see the tension mark 15, does this look to be right Heath?










Everything lines up great and man the car revs much nicer compared to those cogs I had on it. I figured this job would take 2 hours at the most, but we ended up spending all day on it due to the crank pulley. Mounting it up, torquing it down and taking it off, then dremeling and repeating that step 3 or 4 times is very time consuming. I am glad I have my old LS1 balancer that we were using to gauge how much material we had to remove....that made this go a lot easier.

But all in all this was a very rewarding project. Like all LS1 projects you have to do a little grinding here and there, a little tweaking to this and that but what can you do. The blower doesn't rattle anymore like it did with the cogs or other set ups. The bracket and all things supplied with this kit are well thought out and put together. The adjustment tool took a minute to get used to but it works great. After reading Kyles post I am glad I wasn't the only one to be thrown off by it. I like how you can use the middle pulley to fine tune the tension on the belt. In one of the pics you can see where I have it set.

Now its time to rest and then tomorrow it's time to see what kind of boost this thing throws down with a 3.7 pulley.

Kyle do you still want me to call you, let me know,
Jeremy