Selling my Jake's 4l80e, need some glide advice for turbo car
09-10-2014, 01:55 PM
#41
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The glides aren't as bad as the T-400. The T-400 has a larger converter feed hole and will push on the thrust if not properly restricted.
With a glide it's easy to mis-match the input shaft and pump which can cause excessive converter pressure. A properly built glide will have between 40-80psi cooler line pressure where the T-400 will be over 100psi. When a glide is built, it needs to be built by someone familiar with the different pump and input shaft combo's. You have ringed or ringless input shafts. Some use a stator support bushing while others do not. It needs to be right for the trans and converter to work properly together.
With a glide it's easy to mis-match the input shaft and pump which can cause excessive converter pressure. A properly built glide will have between 40-80psi cooler line pressure where the T-400 will be over 100psi. When a glide is built, it needs to be built by someone familiar with the different pump and input shaft combo's. You have ringed or ringless input shafts. Some use a stator support bushing while others do not. It needs to be right for the trans and converter to work properly together.
09-10-2014, 03:17 PM
#45
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This info is not easy to come by. After 2 wiped motors I put my trans on a trans dyno and played with different input shafts and pumps to see what effect's they had on pressure.
Trans had 230psi main line pressure.
With a stock style ringed shaft and no stator support bushing, pressure was 80psi
Race style ringless shaft with no stator support bushing, pressure was 25psi. I liked this and tested it in the car but the converter was way to loose. There wasn't enough restriction to keep the fluid in the converter.
Race style ringless shaft with a stator support bushing, pressure was 45-50 and worked well. Converter was still a little loose. From what I found the converter needs about 50-60 psi to work correctly.
Trans had 230psi main line pressure.
With a stock style ringed shaft and no stator support bushing, pressure was 80psi
Race style ringless shaft with no stator support bushing, pressure was 25psi. I liked this and tested it in the car but the converter was way to loose. There wasn't enough restriction to keep the fluid in the converter.
Race style ringless shaft with a stator support bushing, pressure was 45-50 and worked well. Converter was still a little loose. From what I found the converter needs about 50-60 psi to work correctly.
09-10-2014, 03:44 PM
#46
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I'll post this here also:
Another critical measurement most miss is the depth of the converter pilot in the crank. The converter needs to be able to flex at least .200 into the pilot hole. This requires smearing some grease on the pilot and bolting it all together, then taking it apart to dbl check the depths. When building a LS converter I prefer to use an LS pilot rather than the adapter. The adapters do work well but attention needs to be paid to how much movement the converter has available to it. If you have the converter bolted up to the flexplate and it can only flex .100 forward before it bottoms out in the adapter or the crank, your most likely going to have issues.
Those very thick flexplates also don't do much of what they are designed to do....flex. I prefer the thinner SFI flexplates.
Another critical measurement most miss is the depth of the converter pilot in the crank. The converter needs to be able to flex at least .200 into the pilot hole. This requires smearing some grease on the pilot and bolting it all together, then taking it apart to dbl check the depths. When building a LS converter I prefer to use an LS pilot rather than the adapter. The adapters do work well but attention needs to be paid to how much movement the converter has available to it. If you have the converter bolted up to the flexplate and it can only flex .100 forward before it bottoms out in the adapter or the crank, your most likely going to have issues.
Those very thick flexplates also don't do much of what they are designed to do....flex. I prefer the thinner SFI flexplates.
09-10-2014, 05:50 PM
#48
I would suggest a 1.80 straight cut planetary. At your power level the stock 1.76 are hit and miss. I have seen some go 5 teens in the 1/8 and I have seen some scatter the trans and case running 6.20's. They are the best bang for the buck and will last as long as you own the car. 8 clutches in high gear will hold all you want to put through them. I still prefer the 9.5 PTC converter in every small block combo you can imagine. They just flat out work and will also take as much power as you want to throw at them.
I really like the glide on the street and with the converter it couples really well and is easy to drive.
09-10-2014, 06:17 PM
#49
All u have to do is look at my car to see how badass the 9.5 is on a small block big turbo setup . it is tight driving around and only stalling around 3k. Yet can flash with ease on the brake.......... And yet lock down in crazy fashion out the back
I only see 3.5% slip at the stripe in a 1/4.
The only way it could get better is if it was lockup lol
No footbraking, 111mm turbine with a 1.23 open housing, 370
If footbrake for a moment prior to entering the transbrake to get some heat it will flash no pause
Hp8811 trans brake, PTC 9.5. No foot brake aid:
I only see 3.5% slip at the stripe in a 1/4.
The only way it could get better is if it was lockup lol
No footbraking, 111mm turbine with a 1.23 open housing, 370
If footbrake for a moment prior to entering the transbrake to get some heat it will flash no pause
Hp8811 trans brake, PTC 9.5. No foot brake aid:
