Boost by speed control - sensor hook-up to Holley HP
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From: THORNTON, PA (NEAR PHILLY)
Boost by speed control - sensor hook-up to Holley HP Can you guys give me an idea on what your curve looks like? Probably run only 16psi, but curious to see how this is ramped in. My guess is some experimentation to find the threshold of losing traction.
I really need help though getting the sensor to work .I'm trying to use the front anti-lock wheel sensor on this Mustang and 50 tooth reluctor. Its a 2-wire sensor, magnetic I think which puts out a sine wave. The Holley HP will only use a Hall-effect sensor/square wave. Is there a simple converter that I can use to get this to work??
I really need help though getting the sensor to work .I'm trying to use the front anti-lock wheel sensor on this Mustang and 50 tooth reluctor. Its a 2-wire sensor, magnetic I think which puts out a sine wave. The Holley HP will only use a Hall-effect sensor/square wave. Is there a simple converter that I can use to get this to work??
Last edited by 69-chvl; Sep 30, 2014 at 06:21 PM.
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From: Norn Iron
It will all be experimental as everyones car will be different.
And make sure you reference speed of an undriven wheel or GPS
No sense having boost rise with speed...and speed is measured of driven wheels that might lose traction...which would potentially offer more boost.
And make sure you reference speed of an undriven wheel or GPS
No sense having boost rise with speed...and speed is measured of driven wheels that might lose traction...which would potentially offer more boost.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: THORNTON, PA (NEAR PHILLY)
It will all be experimental as everyones car will be different.
And make sure you reference speed of an undriven wheel or GPS
No sense having boost rise with speed...and speed is measured of driven wheels that might lose traction...which would potentially offer more boost.
And make sure you reference speed of an undriven wheel or GPS
No sense having boost rise with speed...and speed is measured of driven wheels that might lose traction...which would potentially offer more boost.
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From: Norn Iron
Wastegate is very dynamic, the only time it's static is when it's closed.
I would see no sensible reason to try and introduce boost steps, when you could have a smooth rise of boost, hopefully keeping you on the edge of traction.
I would see no sensible reason to try and introduce boost steps, when you could have a smooth rise of boost, hopefully keeping you on the edge of traction.
Thread Starter
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From: THORNTON, PA (NEAR PHILLY)
Did a search on some of the import guys are using this to convert the signal. But I hate all that extra equip that can fail!!
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8509
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8509
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From: Norn Iron
I really need help though getting the sensor to work .I'm trying to use the front anti-lock wheel sensor on this Mustang and 50 tooth reluctor. Its a 2-wire sensor, magnetic I think which puts out a sine wave. The Holley HP will only use a Hall-effect sensor/square wave. Is there a simple converter that I can use to get this to work??
Also bare in mind though, if you are wishing to retain ABS, piggybacking anything on top of a factory sensor can make the ABS unhappy
http://jbperf.com/dual_VR/v2_1.html
The MSD thing you linked should achieve a similar thing.
Not sure if you have the cars over there or not, Vauxhall/Opel Astra ? GM product, small 2/4 door hatch
These actually use a small yellow relay which isnt a relay. It actually does the same thing. Converts a VR signal to digital.
See this thread here, with some pics.
http://www.syvecs.com/forum/viewtopi...6&t=553&p=2809
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
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From: THORNTON, PA (NEAR PHILLY)
Thanks Steve. The car does not have anti-lock brakes but the provisions are there for it, just need a sensor which I happened to have.
Thanks for the links!!!
Thanks for the links!!!
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From: THORNTON, PA (NEAR PHILLY)
Thread Starter
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From: THORNTON, PA (NEAR PHILLY)
Good news - the MSD converter box got the magnetic wheel sensor to work with my ECU!! Just need to make sure the calibration is right and will start working on this boost vs speed thing.
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From: THORNTON, PA (NEAR PHILLY)
Boost by gear I believe is looking for an rpm drop to "assume" a gear change has been made. What if you lift the pedal a bit due to spin...I would think that would screw everything up - just a guess.
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From: Norn Iron
It depends what your controller is capable of.
If the controller is "assuming" gear...then it simply is not capable of boost by gear, so speed is the easiest option.
Too many controllers seem to claim boost by gear, when the reality is they're full or **** making assumptions as to what gear you're in by some sort of rpm drop, sequential switching or other nonsense which never truly determines gear
I'd say that overall boost by gear is a better option. Largely because it will still allow you to make use of the torque from the turbo in any gear.
Whereas speed based, if you were cruising at 4th or 5th at lowish speed for example you would never have access to that same boost/torque because you'd be at a lower speed.
Likewise for a more aggressive lower gear, not possible because your low speed.
There are compromises either way, but also advantages. Up to each user to make the most of either option.
Ramping boost with rpm, gear and throttle compensations can make for a very good package.
If you can also program multiple boost maps based on the above also selectable via a switch....then you have a very versatile setup for a variety of conditions, traction levels, uses etc
If the controller is "assuming" gear...then it simply is not capable of boost by gear, so speed is the easiest option.
Too many controllers seem to claim boost by gear, when the reality is they're full or **** making assumptions as to what gear you're in by some sort of rpm drop, sequential switching or other nonsense which never truly determines gear
I'd say that overall boost by gear is a better option. Largely because it will still allow you to make use of the torque from the turbo in any gear.
Whereas speed based, if you were cruising at 4th or 5th at lowish speed for example you would never have access to that same boost/torque because you'd be at a lower speed.
Likewise for a more aggressive lower gear, not possible because your low speed.
There are compromises either way, but also advantages. Up to each user to make the most of either option.
Ramping boost with rpm, gear and throttle compensations can make for a very good package.
If you can also program multiple boost maps based on the above also selectable via a switch....then you have a very versatile setup for a variety of conditions, traction levels, uses etc