When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
As the title says I need help with my Procharger Truck Hat installation. I have a 02 ta with Procharger F1A with stock rad and procharger shroud and Spal 9" an 16" fans.
With rad in the factory location in the front rad support I can't get the truck hat on the supercharger. The hat is tight up against the procharger fan shround. Anyone have any ideas.
Wish I could help, because I'm going to be doing the same exact thing. What about cutting out a spot there in the radiator fan shroud for the hat to sit there? I think I'm going to try that.
Simple fix, trim about 1/2 inch off where it connects to the procharger. I just went through all this about 2 months ago! I used a pair of Wiss Aviation snips, I think that was the name. Use whatever you got to trim it down and tighten it down with a T-Bar clamp.
Clamp size is 4.25 or so, Vibrant Performance. The 4.05 size will be too small!
Wish I could help, because I'm going to be doing the same exact thing. What about cutting out a spot there in the radiator fan shroud for the hat to sit there? I think I'm going to try that.
This is exactly what I did when I had an F1a on my car. I ran into the same problem. I removed the fan shroud and used a die grinder to cut a square out of the shroud so that the hat would clear. Chances are u will have to cut and reinstall the shroud a couple of times to get it perfect. I wanted to leave as much of the shroud intact as possible.
I then came to realize that the hat also contacted the lower radiator support in that same area so I used a grinder to clearance the support where the hat was contacting it. With a little trimming it will fit in there but it is very tight.
Simple fix, trim about 1/2 inch off where it connects to the procharger. I just went through all this about 2 months ago! I used a pair of Wiss Aviation snips, I think that was the name. Use whatever you got to trim it down and tighten it down with a T-Bar clamp.
Clamp size is 4.25 or so, Vibrant Performance. The 4.05 size will be too small!
That is a good idea. So when you trimmed off 1/2" where you still able to use the metal ring in the inside.
That is a good idea. So when you trimmed off 1/2" where you still able to use the metal ring in the inside.
2002gt.
You want to remove that metal ring regardless. There is no way it will fit on the blower with that ring in place. Even after removing it i had to cut a slit in the hat so that it would fit onto the inlet. Used a t bolt clamp to secure it once i finally got it on there.
you l;ose boost running any kind of filter so why not just run a screen? I am mostly race only so maybe if you are street driving it a lot then filter is a good idea.
Guys have dyno proven that the hat + big filter makes just as much power as nothing on the blower. The guy I bought my F1-A dyno tested it and saw no improvement dropping the truck inlet and filter off the blower. Guys have also seen the screens being a major restriction as well and have lost power.
Think about it, the inlet is pulling air, and if the entrance is turbulent, you won't make as much power as you would with a smooth entry into the blower. The inlet hat allows the air to smoothly transition into the blower better than not having anything on it.
Guys have dyno proven that the hat + big filter makes just as much power as nothing on the blower. The guy I bought my F1-A dyno tested it and saw no improvement dropping the truck inlet and filter off the blower. Guys have also seen the screens being a major restriction as well and have lost power.
Think about it, the inlet is pulling air, and if the entrance is turbulent, you won't make as much power as you would with a smooth entry into the blower. The inlet hat allows the air to smoothly transition into the blower better than not having anything on it.
Good point and it is way to dusty where I live to run no air filter. My car is a summer time cruiser and not a drag car. Seems like notching the fan shroud might be the easiest after all.
Guys have dyno proven that the hat + big filter makes just as much power as nothing on the blower. The guy I bought my F1-A dyno tested it and saw no improvement dropping the truck inlet and filter off the blower. Guys have also seen the screens being a major restriction as well and have lost power.
Think about it, the inlet is pulling air, and if the entrance is turbulent, you won't make as much power as you would with a smooth entry into the blower. The inlet hat allows the air to smoothly transition into the blower better than not having anything on it.
I understand completely what you are saying however if it was completely true, then would outlaw 10.5 outlaw dr and x275 be not running a filter? Why would they have rules saying to bumper exit for the blower in Ultra?
I took my hat off and picked up 1.5 psi of boost on my F1C. and 28 rwhp
This is exactly what I did when I had an F1a on my car. I ran into the same problem. I removed the fan shroud and used a die grinder to cut a square out of the shroud so that the hat would clear. Chances are u will have to cut and reinstall the shroud a couple of times to get it perfect. I wanted to leave as much of the shroud intact as possible.
I then came to realize that the hat also contacted the lower radiator support in that same area so I used a grinder to clearance the support where the hat was contacting it. With a little trimming it will fit in there but it is very tight.
James.
Perfect timing guys, I'm in the middle of the exact issue myself. I contemplated ditching the shroud .... But I don't think that is a viable solution. A little more modification and we should be there.
I understand completely what you are saying however if it was completely true, then would outlaw 10.5 outlaw dr and x275 be not running a filter? Why would they have rules saying to bumper exit for the blower in Ultra?
I took my hat off and picked up 1.5 psi of boost on my F1C. and 28 rwhp
All of the guys who aren't running an inlet or filter, are running a bell of some sort on the front of the blower to smooth out the air inlet. In that case, yes, it would probably make more power. But those mesh screens are really bad, I've seen guys lose a lot of power with them compared to a tube and filter.
All of the guys who aren't running an inlet or filter, are running a bell of some sort on the front of the blower to smooth out the air inlet. In that case, yes, it would probably make more power. But those mesh screens are really bad, I've seen guys lose a lot of power with them compared to a tube and filter.
I will dyno with and without the screen and go to the Steve Morrison bell if I have to
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Slideshow: From wobbling harmonic balancers to failed EBCMs, these are the issues that define long-term C5 ownership and what repairs typically involve.
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Slideshow: A modern Camaro transformed into a retro icon, this limited-run "Bandit" build blends nostalgia with brute force in a way few revivals manage.
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Slideshow: Cadillac didn't just crash the high-performance luxury vehicle party, it showed up loud, supercharged, and occasionally a little unhinged...
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Slideshow: A one-off sports car that looks like a vintage Italian exotic-but hides a C6 Corvette underneath-just sold for the price of a new mid-engine Corvette.
Procharger Truck Hat Users HELP!!!! 
