Bottom end options for LQ4?
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Bottom end options for LQ4? Hey guys,
I'm new to forced induction and have a few questions regarding my new build. I picked up a 2006 LQ4 out of a express van off of craigslist for 200$, it had lost oil pressure and smoked all the bearings. All of the journals and rods look fine and reusable with some machine work. The idea I kinda have behind this is somewhat simple, I want to reuse the stock crank and rods obviously throw some studs and rod bolts at it. This is where I am up in the air, I want to use some forged pistons but i'm not sure if I should keep the stock bore or bore it over to a 370 or a 376. My desired power goal is 650 to the tires on low boost (8-10psi) in a 3700 pound s10 using a 4l80e. I guess my over all questions are. what would you guys recommend for the bottom end, what pistons would you use and what bore would you suggest. I have decided to keep the stock crank and rods due to budget and they should support 650 with no problem at all. Also keep in mind this is a summer daily, it will be intercooled on e85. I am open to any suggestions you guys may have, like I said I am new to the forced induction world and trying to get my feet wet without a terrible first experience.
Thanks,
Ross
I'm new to forced induction and have a few questions regarding my new build. I picked up a 2006 LQ4 out of a express van off of craigslist for 200$, it had lost oil pressure and smoked all the bearings. All of the journals and rods look fine and reusable with some machine work. The idea I kinda have behind this is somewhat simple, I want to reuse the stock crank and rods obviously throw some studs and rod bolts at it. This is where I am up in the air, I want to use some forged pistons but i'm not sure if I should keep the stock bore or bore it over to a 370 or a 376. My desired power goal is 650 to the tires on low boost (8-10psi) in a 3700 pound s10 using a 4l80e. I guess my over all questions are. what would you guys recommend for the bottom end, what pistons would you use and what bore would you suggest. I have decided to keep the stock crank and rods due to budget and they should support 650 with no problem at all. Also keep in mind this is a summer daily, it will be intercooled on e85. I am open to any suggestions you guys may have, like I said I am new to the forced induction world and trying to get my feet wet without a terrible first experience.
Thanks,
Ross
3700lb S10? That seems oddly heavy.
For a 650 HP on an e85 6.0, a bone stock healthy long block would be more than adequate, including the OEM cam and hardware. You don't need aftermarket rod bolts/studs/hardware of any kind. Since yours will already be at the machine shop, check the bores. If they are true, run the factory pistons as well. Install new OEM rings/bearings/head bolts and let it eat. With a 650hp goal If the block needs bored, I'd just go .030 over. I'd suggest the cheap hyper pistons. 650 HP is nothing non these engines. K.I.S.S. is the best method IMO. Finding someone that can setup the engine up as close to OEM spec. as possible and not try to "improve" things is the tough part. Don't let Willie-Bubba trick you into running loose bearing tolerances, shimmed high volume oil pumps, or radical cam profiles to make 650HP on a turbo LS engine.
Shying away from boost is also a mistake IMO. Sure you could hit your goal with low boost and some aftermarket parts, but it's not cost effective. Boost won't hurt the motor, don't be afraid of it. With E85 you could easily make 650hp on boost alone with 100% stock engine. You're buying the turbo anyway, let it do the work.
For a 650 HP on an e85 6.0, a bone stock healthy long block would be more than adequate, including the OEM cam and hardware. You don't need aftermarket rod bolts/studs/hardware of any kind. Since yours will already be at the machine shop, check the bores. If they are true, run the factory pistons as well. Install new OEM rings/bearings/head bolts and let it eat. With a 650hp goal If the block needs bored, I'd just go .030 over. I'd suggest the cheap hyper pistons. 650 HP is nothing non these engines. K.I.S.S. is the best method IMO. Finding someone that can setup the engine up as close to OEM spec. as possible and not try to "improve" things is the tough part. Don't let Willie-Bubba trick you into running loose bearing tolerances, shimmed high volume oil pumps, or radical cam profiles to make 650HP on a turbo LS engine.
Shying away from boost is also a mistake IMO. Sure you could hit your goal with low boost and some aftermarket parts, but it's not cost effective. Boost won't hurt the motor, don't be afraid of it. With E85 you could easily make 650hp on boost alone with 100% stock engine. You're buying the turbo anyway, let it do the work.
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Thread Starter
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From: Grand Haven, MI
3700lb S10? That seems oddly heavy.
For a 650 HP on an e85 6.0, a bone stock healthy long block would be more than adequate, including the OEM cam and hardware. You don't need aftermarket rod bolts/studs/hardware of any kind. Since yours will already be at the machine shop, check the bores. If they are true, run the factory pistons as well. Install new OEM rings/bearings/head bolts and let it eat. With a 650hp goal If the block needs bored, I'd just go .030 over. I'd suggest the cheap hyper pistons. 650 HP is nothing non these engines. K.I.S.S. is the best method IMO. Finding someone that can setup the engine up as close to OEM spec. as possible and not try to "improve" things is the tough part. Don't let Willie-Bubba trick you into running loose bearing tolerances, shimmed high volume oil pumps, or radical cam profiles to make 650HP on a turbo LS engine.
Shying away from boost is also a mistake IMO. Sure you could hit your goal with low boost and some aftermarket parts, but it's not cost effective. Boost won't hurt the motor, don't be afraid of it. With E85 you could easily make 650hp on boost alone with 100% stock engine. You're buying the turbo anyway, let it do the work.
For a 650 HP on an e85 6.0, a bone stock healthy long block would be more than adequate, including the OEM cam and hardware. You don't need aftermarket rod bolts/studs/hardware of any kind. Since yours will already be at the machine shop, check the bores. If they are true, run the factory pistons as well. Install new OEM rings/bearings/head bolts and let it eat. With a 650hp goal If the block needs bored, I'd just go .030 over. I'd suggest the cheap hyper pistons. 650 HP is nothing non these engines. K.I.S.S. is the best method IMO. Finding someone that can setup the engine up as close to OEM spec. as possible and not try to "improve" things is the tough part. Don't let Willie-Bubba trick you into running loose bearing tolerances, shimmed high volume oil pumps, or radical cam profiles to make 650HP on a turbo LS engine.
Shying away from boost is also a mistake IMO. Sure you could hit your goal with low boost and some aftermarket parts, but it's not cost effective. Boost won't hurt the motor, don't be afraid of it. With E85 you could easily make 650hp on boost alone with 100% stock engine. You're buying the turbo anyway, let it do the work.
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I would hone out the cylinders, and reuse stock rotating assembly for your budget in mind. A set of Wiseco pistons would always give me a more peace mind, however. Either stock 4.00" or 4.03" to get a 370ci. motor, I wouldn't go over a .030" bore for a boost application however. The SBE has been proven time and time again and you can easily get your power goal out of it, especially on E85.
I would start with the stock bore, have a mach. shop ck it for wear and round, save it if possible-if not go to .005 overbore, shelf pistons avail, and its saved for another bore if needed
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From: Grand Haven, MI
Alright I think I will do a stock rebuild then. The idea behind the forged pistons were basically just for peace of mind. What ring gap would you guys recommend?
