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Got a tag... A block from the tag office I also got pulled over. $107 ticket for expired tag. Cop was a total ******. I explained how it was an out of state title and I had to bring the car in for inspection. They told me I should have bought the temp. 30 day tag before driving it in.
Also installed wired up the new head light harness and installed the new H4 head lights. New head lights ruined the old school look. I had to take them off immediately and bought factory replacements.
Honestly it has tinted headlight covers anyway so I doubt you'd even see them. But they looked too "ricey" for my taste. Would be super easy to upgrade if anyone wanted. I wired it all up with dual 30a relays for HI and LO beams.
User name Skrilla? That would have been my first sign. Sucks to hear about the car and money you paid. Looks like you have it ironed out now. Hope someone kicks his *** for being a worthless **** but sadly I see he is still selling stuff like the 2010 Camaro SS brakes front and rear he just posted a few days ago.
I remember when this car was for sale. I contemplated trading my Camaro for it. When "Skrilla" had it in the for sale section he had it listed that he would consider traders too. If you were not able to do all your own work I am sure it would of been way more of a screw job to you. Glad you got it sorted out. Hope it all works out for you and you get it sold.
Hey, look at it this way. The car found a nice home with a guy with skills.
The rest is water under the bridge!
Good luck with the sale.
Take it to the track!
Hey, look at it this way. The car found a nice home with a guy with skills.
The rest is water under the bridge!
Good luck with the sale.
Take it to the track!
Ron
That's what i'm saying.. Whoever buys this car is getting a deal. With that said, Forcefed have you got any serious interest yet?
That's what i'm saying.. Whoever buys this car is getting a deal. With that said, Forcefed have you got any serious interest yet?
Nothing local yet. Few offering trades that were pretty far away. I'm not interested in trading anything unless I can see it/drive it. Been working on the Rx-7 so I haven’t had much time to play with the 280. I’d like to get it tuned and out the the track a time or two before selling.
Aft pass side brake started dragging and I lost a bunch of pedal pressure last outing in it. Need to see what the deal is. New brakes all around I’m sure... never ends!
Nothing local yet. Few offering trades that were pretty far away. I'm not interested in trading anything unless I can see it/drive it. Been working on the Rx-7 so I haven’t had much time to play with the 280. I’d like to get it tuned and out the the track a time or two before selling.
Aft pass side brake started dragging and I lost a bunch of pedal pressure last outing in it. Need to see what the deal is. New brakes all around I’m sure... never ends!
That sucks. good luck bleeding those brakes by the way. If you have a vacuum bleeder is suggest you use it. They are notorious for being a bitch.
When I put in the new master I bled them all. Seemed to work great. Pedal was nice and firm. I do use one of those hand held "mighty vac" pumps though.
Short block in my other car was pulled and off the the machine shop so I got a play a little with the 280 this weekend. Found some more awesome stuff!
The pass side rear brake drum had some light weight hardware store spring on lower shoe spring. Caused the "adjuster screw assembly" to fall out and get caught in the drum and drag. Found more of the same BS on the driver side. Here they bent up an upper (shoe return spring) and it was ready to pop off at any time.
Replaced both lower springs with new correct parts and the brakes work great again.
Monster studs on these axles! .690" diameter.
With the wheels off I was inspecting the fuel system. Crawled along the length of the car and noticed there is no filter post pump! Pulled the pre pump filter and found it was a 10 micron paper element. (Full of crap I might add) I'm sure this is why the Holley 1800 was louder than I thought it should be. What kind of moron puts a 10 micron filter pre-pump!
So I pulled the pump. Upon doing this I found the power and ground wires to the pump had melted wire shielding. Relay plug was also melted at bit. All poorly crimped wires with corrosion all over them.
So I ran all new heavy gauge wire (shrink wrapped) with a new 30A relay and soldered everything.
Waiting on new filter element, pump mount isolators, and new fittings and lines to make a pump supply line. I pulled the pump apart and it was very clean with no signs of heat or damage to the pump rotors. The pump wiring itself also looked great. No signs of heat on the wires or at the pump motor.
Also played with the air filter a bit. Basically just cut a hold the size of the "Turbo Guard" and slip fit the filter base over it and clamped it in place. This allows me to pop the foam element of anytime I want to race, but still keept the majority of the dirt out for street driving. Turned out ok for 30 minutes with the hack saw and a hammer. Was a real precision job...
Funny, I've been running a 10 micron pre filter pump for 5 years without an issue. Same pump too. My buddy bought the part for me through his shop, didn't realize it was a 10 micron till a week ago when I ordered another for my 2nd pump. Worked so far, so I'll just do it for the new one too...
Funny, I've been running a 10 micron pre filter pump for 5 years without an issue. Same pump too. My buddy bought the part for me through his shop, didn't realize it was a 10 micron till a week ago when I ordered another for my 2nd pump. Worked so far, so I'll just do it for the new one too...
Thats not a good idea. If you look at the installation instructions it specifically says 100 micron pre-pump. I will say my filter had a bunch of crap in it, and the wiring couldn't have helped. 10 micron pre-pump can cause a supply restriction and cavitation pre-pump. Not a good idea IMO.
06-20-2015, 12:18 AM
