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05 colorado SBE 6.0/C480/4l80e 9.78@143 foot brake 3850lbs

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Old 02-01-2017, 07:46 PM
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Just watched your latest video. I know you know what your doing but I really don't think you need 3 450s 2 should do it once you do those rails and regulator. You should also seriously consider doing boost referenced since your going to all the trouble to it it all right this time.
Old 02-02-2017, 05:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Blown06
Ask and you shall receive. Gopro is mounted low, looking up at the radiator/cap/overflow vent line. Flash light was zip tied to the blower bracket. If you have never seen this video.....it's worth watching how stupid this thing got.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jsGJ-n8Z7RQ
You got lucky on that pass... luckily it didn't get under the tires and cause a crash.
Old 02-02-2017, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by MY_2K_Z
Just watched your latest video. I know you know what your doing but I really don't think you need 3 450s 2 should do it once you do those rails and regulator. You should also seriously consider doing boost referenced since your going to all the trouble to it it all right this time.
I was thinking the same thing about the boost referenced regulator. 20 psi more effective fuel pressure would more than likely cover the slight lean condition, and then some.

I'd really like to see him utilize the stock rails too. Keep it sloppy. Drill and tap the end caps on all 4 corners for NPT to AN fittings and feed it the same way he mentioned, in on the rear 2 corners, out the front to the reg. Pinch and solder the factory feed and return nipples closed.
Old 02-02-2017, 07:08 PM
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i dunno man. to me sloppy style means a real-*** look at cost vs time. drilling and tapping and soldering fuel rails vs ordering $100 of stuff off ebay....

i dont actually know how much ebay rails are, that is just a guess
Old 02-03-2017, 12:13 AM
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Drill and tap 4 holes in soft aluminum, hammer, heat, and solder. Less than an hour, easy. And another video/source of cashflow to support further crazyness.

Personally, I'd get aftermarket rails. However, the beauty of this sloppy stuff... what makes it pretty damn entertaining and addictive to follow, is doing it exactly this way.

Mismatched tires
ugly vs. pretty intake pipe
screwdriver traction control
Stock reused head bolts
Making up head bolt torque on the fly, "that feels good, let's use that number"
Rattling the heads on with an impact and calling it good
stock reused (several times) head gaskets
stock pushrods

stock fuel rails

modified stock fuel rails just fits the theme.

****'s mint.

Last edited by SethU; 02-03-2017 at 12:25 AM.
Old 02-03-2017, 12:34 AM
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Originally Posted by SethU
Drill and tap 4 holes in soft aluminum, hammer, heat, and solder. Less than an hour, easy. And another video/source of cashflow to support further crazyness.

Personally, I'd get aftermarket rails. However, the beauty of this sloppy stuff... what makes it pretty damn entertaining and addictive to follow, is doing it exactly this way.

Mismatched tires
ugly vs. pretty intake pipe
screwdriver traction control
Stock reused head bolts
Making up head bolt torque on the fly, "that feels good, let's use that number"
Rattling the heads on with an impact and calling it good
stock reused (several times) head gaskets
stock pushrods

stock fuel rails

modified stock fuel rails just fits the theme.

****'s mint.
I respect the amount of TIME sloppy has to swap motors that's for sure. There's something to be said for having more time than money, or hell even having the money to do it "right" and choosing to do it on a shoe string budget. It's clear that some of these "misfortunes" could be prevented with head studs, etc, but no new empirical data can be derived from that. No one has reused stock head bolts and impacted them to 1000rwhp so that is freshly minted data no doubt. I would have shot myself years ago doing this many motor swaps on a vette tho.
Old 02-03-2017, 07:27 AM
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Head studs wouldn't have saved him on running lean.

The other thing to note is that Denmah said in one of his videos that he thought it would be cool to see how far he could go with stock fuel lines and rails.

Last edited by 408GT; 02-03-2017 at 07:34 AM.
Old 02-03-2017, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by 408GT
Head studs wouldn't have saved him on running lean.

The other thing to note is that Denmah said in one of his videos that he thought it would be cool to see how far he could go with stock fuel lines and rails.
True story.

Not sure what e% he was running with the splash of c16(?) but 992 on stock lines is amazing!

Shitz mint! Classic!
Old 02-03-2017, 10:24 AM
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The crutch for small fuel lines is pressure, which he doesn't have. Small line only flows so much as "X" pressure. Others have pushed the stock lines just as far on E85 without fueling issues on factory rails... the rails are fine.

Most aftermarket rails (china or other wise) suck. They don't have a positive lock on the injectors and the mounts vibrate loose. Seen several very setups burn to the ground because they used aftermarket rails. Most of the time the OEM rail is fine.

Other issue is using junky china fuel pressure regulators with tiny inlets and outlets. Need 1/2 lines and a true 1/2 in/out regulator to do it "right" IMO. Or a cheapie regulator on each rail.
Old 02-03-2017, 10:28 AM
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the magnafuel with -8 feeds and -6 return ought to work.
Old 02-03-2017, 10:41 AM
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I don't know why I've never seen anyone ever bring this up before but if you look at a stock fuel rail where the feed meets the crossover, it swedges down in size to even smaller then the feed tube. That has to be by far the most restrictive point in the stock fuel system since fuel as a solid can't be compressed and squeezed through the hole any faster unless you up the pressure.

I've always thought that if you put a T in the feed line and ran even just a -4 line over to the schrader valve on the test port that you could gain at least 30% more flow into a stock fuel rail. Just something to think about...
Old 02-03-2017, 11:36 AM
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Personally, I like his concept of doing more with less!!!! This guy is just down cool as all F__k!!! I like his attitude, his enthusiasm, and he's even has a cool *** wife to go along with it all!!! You just can't ask for anymore than that!!! Sure, anyone can build a super fast car with an unlimited budget, but to it the Sloppy way has way more appeal to me!!!!




I'm addicted to watching all his videos as they're so entertaining and informative to boot!!!!




Matt, thank you sir for taking the time as you do to make these videos and sharing them with the world!!!! You sir are a very unique individual!!!!! And keep up the good work!!!!!
Old 02-03-2017, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by kbracing96
I don't know why I've never seen anyone ever bring this up before but if you look at a stock fuel rail where the feed meets the crossover, it swedges down in size to even smaller then the feed tube. That has to be by far the most restrictive point in the stock fuel system since fuel as a solid can't be compressed and squeezed through the hole any faster unless you up the pressure.

I've always thought that if you put a T in the feed line and ran even just a -4 line over to the schrader valve on the test port that you could gain at least 30% more flow into a stock fuel rail. Just something to think about...
I thought about this a few times myself. Just tee off the regulator and send it to the test port, -4 or -6 whatever.
Old 02-03-2017, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
The crutch for small fuel lines is pressure, which he doesn't have. Small line only flows so much as "X" pressure. Others have pushed the stock lines just as far on E85 without fueling issues on factory rails... the rails are fine.

Most aftermarket rails (china or other wise) suck. They don't have a positive lock on the injectors and the mounts vibrate loose. Seen several very setups burn to the ground because they used aftermarket rails. Most of the time the OEM rail is fine.

Other issue is using junky china fuel pressure regulators with tiny inlets and outlets. Need 1/2 lines and a true 1/2 in/out regulator to do it "right" IMO. Or a cheapie regulator on each rail.

The injector should never be able to move when sandwiched between the intake and rails regardless of any clips. If they leak or move they're installed incorrectly/badly or the brackets etc are wrong or ***** etc.

But the easiest way to improve flow on stock rails...is add multiple feed points. Is it worth the hassle vs buying rails ? Up to each user to decide.

And always monitor fuel pressure as close to the rails as possible...or via the rails themselves
Old 02-03-2017, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
The injector should never be able to move when sandwiched between the intake and rails regardless of any clips. If they leak or move they're installed incorrectly/badly or the brackets etc are wrong or ***** etc.

But the easiest way to improve flow on stock rails...is add multiple feed points. Is it worth the hassle vs buying rails ? Up to each user to decide.

And always monitor fuel pressure as close to the rails as possible...or via the rails themselves
I think he's referring to the brackets that attach the rails to a truck intake. All of the aftermarket rails; Holley, Fast, Aeromotive, ching chong chinese, include brackets for car intakes. With the Holley rails (which I use) you can flip the brackets for use with the truck intake, but then the brackets don't bolt to the rails, so they only provide downwards force.
Old 02-03-2017, 05:26 PM
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Whatever the setup rails should always be very very securely mounted.
Old 02-03-2017, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
Whatever the setup rails should always be very very securely mounted.
They aren't if you only use the supplied hardware, that's the point. Esp. with the china kits.

Combine BS hardware typical solid engine mounts, higher pressures, hanging heavy regulators etc off them. Then add in "race" conditions and heat and you get fires. I've had 2 friends that had engine fires due to aftermarket rails and hardware vibrating loose and heard of many others. There's a reason the OEM manufactures use injector clips. It's good cheap insurance, esp for a street car.
Old 02-04-2017, 03:03 AM
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Originally Posted by a05c
You got lucky on that pass... luckily it didn't get under the tires and cause a crash.
Yeah, when I first posted that vid up there where several guys talking **** telling me how stupid I was and what an *** I was for running it like that. The problem was that due to the big underhood heat (when generating 1000+ horsepower) and 150 mph trap speeds, by the time you get it back to the pits just about everything was evaporated. That was sort of the whole point in putting the gopro under there. I honestly had zero idea how bad it was. I never in a million years figured there would have been more than a small fraction of what actually showed up on the camera. Needless to say, after viewing the video, the truck was put back on the trailer......Everyone who has commented on that video was just as shocked as I was. It is no doubt an epic video.

Looking back, what saved me was three things. First, I still had the blanket attached on the bottom of the hood, so that soaked up quite a bit. Second, the blower inlet is on the same side so I'm sure there was a bunch that was suck into the blower and lastly those glowing headers helped to turn what was left into steam.

I would kill to have had a pressure transducer on the cooling system back then. It would have been a real trip to see exactly how much pressure was in the cooling system. I can't figure out how the radiator never cracked. I had a 3 gallon overflow tank that I custom built after that and used a -12 line to feed it to contain it. I only made one more track outing with the big overflow and by the time I was done, that square tank didn't look so square anymore. The sides were bloated up more than a pregnant fat bitch that consumes 10x the recommended daily dose of salt.
Old 02-04-2017, 06:37 AM
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Had to modify the stock truck fuel rails on my car to be able to fit it under the hood with taller injectors.
This is the feed line from the pump, should be some restriction

Old 02-04-2017, 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
They aren't if you only use the supplied hardware, that's the point. Esp. with the china kits.

Combine BS hardware typical solid engine mounts, higher pressures, hanging heavy regulators etc off them. Then add in "race" conditions and heat and you get fires. I've had 2 friends that had engine fires due to aftermarket rails and hardware vibrating loose and heard of many others. There's a reason the OEM manufactures use injector clips. It's good cheap insurance, esp for a street car.
Not all OEM setups use clips...so again it's not an issue.

The only issue is the rails must be secure under all circumstances, and likewise whatever intake must be designed that the injectors cannot fall through or come loose that direction.

IMO people using weak brackets regardless of their origins...the fault lies with the user for using weak brackets.

Therein lies another aspect. Never take anything at face value, dont just assume because parts supplied are supposed to fit, supposed to be complete, supposed to be a kit...whatever, that they are in fact suitable for purpose unless you 100% trust the seller and they product is fully tried and tested in identical setups as what you intend to use.

There are lots of functional Chinese parts out there....equally there are lots of dysfunctional..but shiny and colourful.


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