05 colorado SBE 6.0/C480/4l80e 9.78@143 foot brake 3850lbs
#1323
TECH Enthusiast
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Yeah, when I first posted that vid up there where several guys talking **** telling me how stupid I was and what an *** I was for running it like that. The problem was that due to the big underhood heat (when generating 1000+ horsepower) and 150 mph trap speeds, by the time you get it back to the pits just about everything was evaporated. That was sort of the whole point in putting the gopro under there. I honestly had zero idea how bad it was. I never in a million years figured there would have been more than a small fraction of what actually showed up on the camera. Needless to say, after viewing the video, the truck was put back on the trailer......Everyone who has commented on that video was just as shocked as I was. It is no doubt an epic video.
Looking back, what saved me was three things. First, I still had the blanket attached on the bottom of the hood, so that soaked up quite a bit. Second, the blower inlet is on the same side so I'm sure there was a bunch that was suck into the blower and lastly those glowing headers helped to turn what was left into steam.
I would kill to have had a pressure transducer on the cooling system back then. It would have been a real trip to see exactly how much pressure was in the cooling system. I can't figure out how the radiator never cracked. I had a 3 gallon overflow tank that I custom built after that and used a -12 line to feed it to contain it. I only made one more track outing with the big overflow and by the time I was done, that square tank didn't look so square anymore. The sides were bloated up more than a pregnant fat bitch that consumes 10x the recommended daily dose of salt.
Looking back, what saved me was three things. First, I still had the blanket attached on the bottom of the hood, so that soaked up quite a bit. Second, the blower inlet is on the same side so I'm sure there was a bunch that was suck into the blower and lastly those glowing headers helped to turn what was left into steam.
I would kill to have had a pressure transducer on the cooling system back then. It would have been a real trip to see exactly how much pressure was in the cooling system. I can't figure out how the radiator never cracked. I had a 3 gallon overflow tank that I custom built after that and used a -12 line to feed it to contain it. I only made one more track outing with the big overflow and by the time I was done, that square tank didn't look so square anymore. The sides were bloated up more than a pregnant fat bitch that consumes 10x the recommended daily dose of salt.
Several catch cans (2-3 total) all in series. The last one plumbed into the intercooler reservoir (A2W setup) and then that vents to a tube that goes through the car to the back and is dumped at the factory license plate hole ( along with the vent for crankcase. So if it pushes water it'll go somewhere that is least likely to cause a crash.
Something else we do, is by moving the transducer that's on the fuel pressure transducer to an extra transducer to monitor the cooling system pressure. Once we know that fuel pressure is good and isn't going to cause a problem, we'll move the sensor input over to the cooling system and start monitoring cooling system pressure. Mind you, this is a racecar that I'm talking about. Where run/idle time is minimal and it isn't street driven (not that it couldn't outside of fuel capacity (2 gal)).
We use BS3 so it's got a finite amount of inputs, so just have to move it over once I/we know that fuel pressure is good and isn't going to drop off, even during 1/4 mile passes.
#1324
9 Second Club
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The catch can issue is twofold...
Yes it needs capacity...but the venting system also needs the ability to get the water into a catch can. A lot of rad caps only have a very small discharge. So in a bigger failure they simply cannot vent fast enough and will still spew water everywhere, and potentially blow the radiator or hoses apart.
Hence if you offer a trip long before either can get too crazy everything will be a lot safer and potentially prevent major engine and radiator damage.
It wont remove all risks, but it can help
But it needs a tight reign on everything, the 50psi overlimit mentioned is far far too high, when you consider even a heavy spring in the cap would be around 20psi opening pressure, which really means if you're seeing 20psi there is already a problem, nevermind waiting until 20+50 !
Unless you've actually designed the system to oparate at very high pressures to start with, but that's unlikely.
I'd think very few alloy radiators are designed to survive much over 30-40psi anyway, as they are never constructed as sturdy as intercoolers, and even at lower pressures many water rads will already be ballooning.
Yes it needs capacity...but the venting system also needs the ability to get the water into a catch can. A lot of rad caps only have a very small discharge. So in a bigger failure they simply cannot vent fast enough and will still spew water everywhere, and potentially blow the radiator or hoses apart.
Hence if you offer a trip long before either can get too crazy everything will be a lot safer and potentially prevent major engine and radiator damage.
It wont remove all risks, but it can help
But it needs a tight reign on everything, the 50psi overlimit mentioned is far far too high, when you consider even a heavy spring in the cap would be around 20psi opening pressure, which really means if you're seeing 20psi there is already a problem, nevermind waiting until 20+50 !
Unless you've actually designed the system to oparate at very high pressures to start with, but that's unlikely.
I'd think very few alloy radiators are designed to survive much over 30-40psi anyway, as they are never constructed as sturdy as intercoolers, and even at lower pressures many water rads will already be ballooning.
#1330
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Hey everybody I'm new to forum and I don't know exactly where to post this but since it's on a Colorado topic I figured somebody might know. I have a 2007 Colorado doing a 5.3 swap with the truck Intake. I see some people say there is a fitment issue on the pre-2008 trucks. Is the issue in the firewall or hood clearance? If it is firewall clearance issue can it be recessed alittle (by hammer or notching a little section?) I appreciate the feedback thanks
#1334
8 Second Club
iTrader: (4)
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I get the sloppy thing, but a spin on agricultural filter works great for $30. Socks only is going to cause issues eventually at the injectors.
1" inlet/outlet, and ethanol compatible 10 micron element. No issues so far on mine with E85 around 1000hp. Used these on many cars.
![](http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/features/170301.jpg)
Good luck on the upcoming dyno runs! we're all waiting to see what the Bog Wiener will do!
1" inlet/outlet, and ethanol compatible 10 micron element. No issues so far on mine with E85 around 1000hp. Used these on many cars.
![](http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/features/170301.jpg)
Good luck on the upcoming dyno runs! we're all waiting to see what the Bog Wiener will do!
![Cheers!!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_cheers.gif)
#1336
8 Second Club
iTrader: (4)
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12-25 GPM is a ton. Even at the low end that's enough fuel for like 8000+ish HP on gas. The pressure thing is a suggested pressure, not a max burst pressure. I tried to blow it up with shop air as 120psi and it didn't phase it. I routinely hit 70-80psi on them with zero trouble. Not saying it's the best filter in the world, but it's cheap and more than enough for the typical JY build. I have mine necked down to a -8 in and out. So I'm sure it doesn't flow anywhere near those ratings. They also have a 3/4 inlet/outlet version. Local tractor supply carries them.
#1338
9 Second Club
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I've seen those piece of **** ID injectors fail within weeks with only a 30 micron filter. And they fail in a dangerous manner for the engine clogging up very quickly.
After seeing how bad they got so easily, I'd never use an Injector Dynamics injector again. They claim their injectors need no larger than 6 micron filters !!
Then when you ask them who offers such filters...they struggled to tell you who.
I've been running Siemens injectors on my own car for over 10 years with only 40 microns and never had an issue. In fact for a long time I only had a single 100 micron filter on it and never had a problem.
Interestingly I have mine all apart at the minute and was quite surprised how dirty they were.
40 micron Holley filters, 1 prior to each 044 and run for about 4-5 years now, but maybe only 15,000 miles or so.
Always pump fuel from normal stations etc
#1340
9 Second Club
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Maybe they are better in reality, but that's what they were quoting. And as said, even ID struggled to name any suppliers of filters sub 10 microns !
The only one they did was a spin on style at a few hundred dollars each.