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Oil everywhere under WOT

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Old Oct 13, 2015 | 07:20 AM
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Default Oil everywhere under WOT

Finally got my Incon twin turbo setup complete on a 2002 5.3L iron block. Just cruising and staying out of boost everything appears normal. Last night I got on it hard for the first time after the tune but didn't go past 6K RPMs and lifted the hood and I have oil everywhere. Mainly on the passenger side valve cover but all over the firewall and dripping down the back of the motor. I have a MM catch can setup. Could this be a PCV issue? I already pulled the intake and there is no oil coming from crankshaft sensor or OPSU. My PCV setup is drivers valve cover to catch can dirty side, passenger cover to the throttle body and dirty side of can to throttle body. When I bought the motor it did not have a vent on it. Could there be too much pressure?
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Old Oct 13, 2015 | 07:29 AM
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Was your dipstick in?
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Old Oct 13, 2015 | 09:00 AM
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It was. When I built the motor is did the typical extra RTV around the rear cover and oil pan. Totally stumped and pissed. 2 years I've been working on this and doing things right. I just want to enjoy it!
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Old Oct 13, 2015 | 09:30 AM
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Put a go pro in there.
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Old Oct 13, 2015 | 11:25 AM
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I think I found part of my problem. I followed this thread and post #70 for single catch can PCV system routing LS1 Valley cover external pvc-turbohttps://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/1054089-my-catch-can-routing-ok-4.html and I'm not setup this way. Hopefully it's not too late to fix. I'll take my passenger cover line and hook it to my turbo inlet and put the one way check valve from dirty side to throttle body and see how that works. Any idea on a good check valve?
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Old Oct 13, 2015 | 11:42 AM
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PCV for sure.

Turbo setups need a lot of venting. You're just pressurizing the block so much that its spewing oil out of every orifice. Rear main seal being the worst area.
If it continues after the reinstall above, don't get discouraged. You may need let the engine vent even more.
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Old Oct 13, 2015 | 12:03 PM
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Running a hose from the throttle body to a valve cover is your problem. You're directly pressurizing the crankcase when under boost.
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Old Oct 13, 2015 | 12:27 PM
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Glad you figured it out, post pics of this setup please
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Old Oct 13, 2015 | 12:45 PM
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Thanks for the input guys. Wouldn't of figured it out if it wasn't for some of the knowledge here. I will post before and after pics. Short term fix is to re-run the hoses. This winter I'll pull off the valve overs and get some -12 AN fittings welded on for better flow.
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Old Oct 13, 2015 | 03:07 PM
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Yeah i didn't realize you ran a hose straight from the TB to the crankcase with no check valve.. That will do it.
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Old Oct 13, 2015 | 06:25 PM
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Yeah funny story I did the exact same thing. I put the motor in N/A and never thought about it until I blew oil everywhere and pushed the dipstick out. I also learned that at some point the new PCV was changed to a fixed orifice instead of a spring valve.

I ended up putting a catch can on the pcv side with this checkvalve
Control Devices Brass Ball Check Valve, 1/4" NPT Male: Industrial Check Valves: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific Control Devices Brass Ball Check Valve, 1/4" NPT Male: Industrial Check Valves: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
I run it like this:
Name:  catch_can_zps3ovemfm9.png
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Size:  4.7 KB

and I run a breather on the oil cap. When I want to spend more money I will swap that to another catch can for the breather but right now I dont really get any blowby and it works fine at 15 psi.
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Old Oct 13, 2015 | 08:05 PM
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crankcase needs to be under a vacuum during boost. 15psi in the intake manifold? No problem. should be 0psi or LESS in the crankcase (nice to see 3" Hg in there).

Pushing boost into the crank case is a good way to blow out an oil seal. Likewise, pulling much more than 3-5" Hg on the crankcase is a good way to suck one in. I run a sensitive gauge that measures 0-30" of WATER on my crankcase to determine the overall piston ring / pcv health when I boost any engine. A gauge like this,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/381017656706?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Should be reading something during WOT or else I start fixing my PCV plumbing until it does.
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Old Oct 15, 2015 | 10:11 AM
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did you get the instructions? they definitely say do not hook the fresh air source to the TB unless you are n/a, and if boosted hook to fresh air inlet

please do not hook your can up some way other than the manufacturers instructions. not even if something else you may find on 'the internet'

the problem you are experiencing has everything to do with hooking it up wrong. you cannot run boost directly into the crankcase.

you do not need any bigger fittings, or any additional check valves please do not do this.

for more help please provide a photo of your current layout, and of course the email to the manufacturer is always the quickest way to get accurate info

more photos for reference:



Last edited by MIGHTYMOUSE; Oct 15, 2015 at 12:52 PM.
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Old Oct 15, 2015 | 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by kingtal0n
crankcase needs to be under a vacuum during boost. 15psi in the intake manifold? No problem. should be 0psi or LESS in the crankcase (nice to see 3" Hg in there).

Pushing boost into the crank case is a good way to blow out an oil seal. Likewise, pulling much more than 3-5" Hg on the crankcase is a good way to suck one in. I run a sensitive gauge that measures 0-30" of WATER on my crankcase to determine the overall piston ring / pcv health when I boost any engine. A gauge like this,
Miljoco LP2507L240 Pressure Gauge 0 to 60H2O 2 1 2in 1 4in | eBay

Should be reading something during WOT or else I start fixing my PCV plumbing until it does.
Unless you're using a vac pump or similar you wont be seeing vacuum in the crankcase on a boosted setup.

But only a muppet would empty boost into theirs ! lol
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Old Oct 15, 2015 | 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
Unless you're using a vac pump or similar you wont be seeing vacuum in the crankcase on a boosted setup.

But only a muppet would empty boost into theirs ! lol
Actually we do see vacuum in our crankcase during boost, when setup properly, I draw you a picture for reference

Name:  pcvaction_zpsfjajxgq9.gif
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This is how all factory turbocharged engines come, to achieve some form of OEM pcv activity during boost you must have a source of pressure drop. You adjust the signal via the adjusting restrictions between the crankcase, source, and air filter.
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Old Oct 15, 2015 | 04:12 PM
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You are joking ?
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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 01:12 AM
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You can read the full details where I discuss PCV action during driving conditions and make comparisons here,
http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...post1590266523


This is we discuss how pressure changes based on velocity of flow,
http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...post1590423314

And here is where I use the same picture to great effect of explaining how PCV systems work on modern internal combustion engines
http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...post1590442241

This post contains an example of a factory PCV restriction fitting to increase crankcase vacuum signal
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...1#post12069849


Any further quesitons leftover you may feel free to ask
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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 02:40 AM
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Well I'll ask you a simple question instead.

How on earth do you expect a system at 10, 20, 30psi to pull vacuum from a crankcase ?

No restrictor or valve will ever allow that because the pressure difference is always in the wrong direction.

Your drawing will never pull anything from the crankcase under boost. It is physically impossible.
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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 05:05 AM
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I have always just run 2 breathers. One in place of the oil cap and one at the back of the driver side valve cover. No catch cans or lines going all over the place. Been boosted for 6 years like that with no issues.
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Old Oct 16, 2015 | 08:12 AM
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