F1-A supercharger & 402
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 79
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F1-A supercharger & 402 Hey guys
Am starting a new project and in need for experts in put/opinions
F-body, six speed, 402 short block, 10.1 compression, stock Ls3 heads, stock Ls3 intake, the JAM cam, F1-A supercharger kit with 4.0 blower pulley and 8" crank pulley. A-1000 in-line fuel pump.
I'll be using race gas.. No problem
Goal is 900rwhp.. Is that doable?
Am I missing something?
Am starting a new project and in need for experts in put/opinions
F-body, six speed, 402 short block, 10.1 compression, stock Ls3 heads, stock Ls3 intake, the JAM cam, F1-A supercharger kit with 4.0 blower pulley and 8" crank pulley. A-1000 in-line fuel pump.
I'll be using race gas.. No problem
Goal is 900rwhp.. Is that doable?
Am I missing something?
Last edited by z0vette; Nov 3, 2015 at 10:40 PM.
What blower are you going to run with this ? The thread title has F1-A and you have F2 in the thread.
Either way the the F1-A and a 402ci will make 900hp. What are you doing for the exhaust ? Street car or track car?
Either way the the F1-A and a 402ci will make 900hp. What are you doing for the exhaust ? Street car or track car?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
For the exhaust.. I'll be using Texas speed 2" headers and an off road Y-pipe ended with a 3" electric cutout
Car is a street and strip, mostly street for highway racing
With you using race gas I don't see a problem hitting 900 rwhp with the F-1A and a 4.00 pulley, provided you don't have belt slippage. Bob
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Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
About race fuel usage.. I will if it is necessary
I was thinking that the 4.00 pulley won't be enough
So I was planing to get a smaller pulley to make it easier like 3.4
What do you think?
Last edited by z0vette; Nov 4, 2015 at 07:01 AM.
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What bracket are you using? Bob
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I hope to get my car on a dyno soon, and can tell you what I make. I'm a 416ls3, cathedral port heads, F1A, with a 4.00" pulley, but only a 7.65" crank pulley. I also only have 1 7/8" headers into a 3.5" Stainless works catback, so I'm losing a little on exhaust.
I'd say with your combo, tuned safely, it should make 850-900 without an issue.
I'd say with your combo, tuned safely, it should make 850-900 without an issue.
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Are you just running the stock procharger bracket or an upgraded setup? I had an SDCE setup and now I have an Aster on Bobs recommendation. No problems with the SDCE but I couldn't get the right parts for it. It was used.
With the Prochargers the exhaust and intake tubing play a big role in hp production it seems
What are you running for intercooler setup? I have the normal 3" tubing setup with 4" Godspeed intercooler but there's a thread on here where a stock cube, stock bottom end LS1 with a D1 car made over 800rwhp at 15lbs I think. I'll see if I can find it. But he ran 4" intercooler piping and then 2" headers like you have. I would think with the extra cubes at the motor you would have no problems producing your numbers on pump gas.
Right now I'm at about 9-10lbs of boost. Still ironing out lots of issues but made 580rwhp at best on a cold day with some issues. I have a 383 LS1 with a D1 blower at 9-10lbs of boost. I'm actually going back to the tuner for one more dyno session before I do some winter mods so I'll get some good numbers.
Are you just running the stock procharger bracket or an upgraded setup? I had an SDCE setup and now I have an Aster on Bobs recommendation. No problems with the SDCE but I couldn't get the right parts for it. It was used.
With the Prochargers the exhaust and intake tubing play a big role in hp production it seems
What are you running for intercooler setup? I have the normal 3" tubing setup with 4" Godspeed intercooler but there's a thread on here where a stock cube, stock bottom end LS1 with a D1 car made over 800rwhp at 15lbs I think. I'll see if I can find it. But he ran 4" intercooler piping and then 2" headers like you have. I would think with the extra cubes at the motor you would have no problems producing your numbers on pump gas.
Right now I'm at about 9-10lbs of boost. Still ironing out lots of issues but made 580rwhp at best on a cold day with some issues. I have a 383 LS1 with a D1 blower at 9-10lbs of boost. I'm actually going back to the tuner for one more dyno session before I do some winter mods so I'll get some good numbers.
With a centri blower setup, airflow makes all the difference, just like NA. That means making sure you have an efficient source of air to the blower... that the intercooler setup is efficient and flows well, then the heads, cam, and exhaust all help to get that extra air out of the motor.
It's why you see guys upgrade their exhaust, lose 1-3psi of boost, but pick up horsepower.... the question is how did you lose boost but make more power... simple, boost pressure is just how much air is stacked up in the intake manifold. If you can get more of that air into the cylinder, then out of the cylinder, you will make more power, and use more of that unused air from the manifold.
It's all about airflow (cfm).... not boost.
I would not drop the compression either. Centri blower motors run cooler than turbo motors, and make peak torque and boost higher in the rpm band, which makes them less prone to detonation. Because of this, you don't need to bandaid the motor by dropping compression.
I'm north of 10:1 and my motor is extremely responsive.... I wouldn't do it any different.
It's why you see guys upgrade their exhaust, lose 1-3psi of boost, but pick up horsepower.... the question is how did you lose boost but make more power... simple, boost pressure is just how much air is stacked up in the intake manifold. If you can get more of that air into the cylinder, then out of the cylinder, you will make more power, and use more of that unused air from the manifold.
It's all about airflow (cfm).... not boost.
I would not drop the compression either. Centri blower motors run cooler than turbo motors, and make peak torque and boost higher in the rpm band, which makes them less prone to detonation. Because of this, you don't need to bandaid the motor by dropping compression.
I'm north of 10:1 and my motor is extremely responsive.... I wouldn't do it any different.
