Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

I don’t consider stating facts about the negatives of a centri blower bashing.

These are all facts. Where is the argument there?

Having owned both, I literally see zero performance advantages of a centri blower VS a turbo looking at just the facts. The guys that argue this point usually don’t have experience with turbo setups on a like combo. They assume what they have is great without the experience of a comparable turbo on similar engine. I’m not saying a centri engine can’t run damn good. We all know they can.

If the blower guys would just admit they are running an inferior power adder out of personal preference, that would be cool. I like the sound the blowers make…and I’d take a blown engine over an NA any day. But if someone is trying to choose between the 2, I try to steer them towards the more efficient option based on facts.

There is a reason all sanctioned NHRA classes limit the turbo combos so heavily. If there were no limits, the turbo cars would wax the floor with the nitrous and centri blower guys. The F1C blowers are classed with the cast 76mm midframe turbos in Ultra 275… That’s a joke! I run a larger turbo on my street/strip car. They even had to ban billet wheel 76’s because the other cars still couldn’t keep up. Bring the F3-xyz centri blowers out… big frame turbos on like engines would still stomp them. It’s just a poor design by nature (when compared to a turbo) and will never be as fast, period.

Comparing track times is irrelevant if the engine/chassis/weight/traction etc aren't equal.

My turbo setup is in positive boost before I ever leave the line. I can make 15-30lbs on the trans brake fast and maintain that the entire run. So to say a like NA engine has any kind of advantage over that is ridiculous. Never been on a dyno, but I was running 5.7x’s and 8 second ¼’s with my first attempt at a turbo LS. A $220 JY SBE 5.3 with an OEM cam/heads on a $650 S475 turbo. Safe to say the guys you raced probably didn’t have their combos setup right. I had less in my whole car (turbo/trans/chassis fuel management… the whole deal) than my buddy just spent on his F1R blower kit alone. Also My home made turbo junk makes more power and runs faster times than his 40k worth of 434 cube monster cam F1R combo at 20lbs. Sure I’ll probably go through 3 engines before he goes through one… But I’ll still be money ahead by a land slide. Not to mention my turbo engine has perfect street manners with a baby cam and highway gearing. Not getting any kind of respectable times NA (or centri IMO) with low RPM, low compression, and highway gearing.

973800CamaroRS

iTrader: (3)

Turbo spool makes her drool, blower whine makes her 69

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

I guess some just don't see the benefits of a centri blower, and that's fine, they don't have to run them.

I do, so I run one.

sweet99ss

iTrader: (41)

Yea idk I would say you have to put more $ into the cooling system to run the a/c kit. I have the truck manifold kit as well because I thought like you. It's already a job to keep it cool without the big condenser in the way.. You would need to do a new radiator, great fan setup and possibly better water pump to keep a/c and keep it cool during summer I would think...

There are a lot of benefits I can see. I listed a bunch of them and I should have included ease of keeping the a/c on there, because that is a huge benefit to most people... It's a great option to have IMO I don't see how someone can say it's not..

98_WS6_M6

iTrader: (18)

I don't know why if turbos are so superior in every way that I see NA, nitrous and centri blower cars at grudge race events all the time. I guess they all didn't get the memo. I mean these setups are the best of the best cars, builders and drivers, so why wouldn't every single grudge car at these high dollar events have a turbo?

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Because there’s a lot more to going fast than having the best power adder. Chassis/suspension and above all Money. A 600+ cube mountain motor it going to have the advantage over a small cube motor no matter how efficient the power adder is. Like motor VS like motor the turbos will stomp the nitrous and centri setups, period. Which is why all the race classes out there have much greater restrictions placed on the turbo engines to help even the playing field.

Game ova

Many people simply refuse to progress, that is why. As forcefed86 brought out, turbo cars typically easily out power most blower setups. And speaking of grudge races, I'm not sure which ones you are talking about....but the ones that I watch are pretty much DOMINATED by turbo cars. Just one example being birdman, and there are many others besides him. But for whatever reason, there are die hard fans of the less efficient power adder....AKA supercharger. And for that reason, turbo cars will remain heavily sanctioned to keep the supercharged/nitrous crowd from crying too much.

holley505

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like a really good COMBO on the RX7 assuming 5s and 8s is at 25+ psi... I want to do something like this for 5.3 stang built I may take over.

I am just speaking from experience with running a few Turbo/SC (they say) 700 rwhp cars (supra turbo, Shelby 5.8 Stang, Hellcat). I know my car does NOT dyno that much... and I have never been to a dyno. I just have a C3 with a 418ci LSX motor with a Holley 4bbl. I can run high 10s NA and drive to the track on pump gas in traffic.

These cars trap really high typically high 120s to low 130s compared to my 122-125. I just find it funny when they talk a lot about the dyno numbers... (likely peak numbers) and the cars cant get out of the 11s. I agree... weight, setup and definitely traction play greatly into this. But if somebody is looking for real world performance... MAX power may get you beat over and over again by the 500hp Beater bomb! LOL

just wondering is the S/C vs the turbo guys can back up the dyno with times.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

My brother's '95 Formula LT1 (which he bought brand new) has never had the engine opened up, back in 2002 or 2003 he installed a ProCharger P-1SC on it at 9 psi. Other than the engine being internally stock, the rest of the car is set up for the dragstrip. It does still have the complete interior, along with a roll cage. It has run in the high 10's in the 1/4. You can bracket race this car, as it is extremely consistent run after run. http://shop.brutespeed.com/Brute-Spe...ed-Formula.htm

This past year my bother took the car out on old gas, and got on it and ventilated the block. A stroker LT1 engine is in the works. Bob

98_WS6_M6

iTrader: (18)

So why don't the big mountain cube motor guys use turbos 100% of the time? Fact is that nitrous, turbo, centri setups all can be made ridiculously fast, it just depends what you like to build. You're just more familiar with turbo and you like using them so that's what you choose. How about the grudge car that runs twin turbos and a centri unit both. Why would he do that if turbos are so fast by themselves. I see there's no backing down from you but there's no way you can state as a fact turbos are always better. It's still your opinion buddy. You make good points but if you were right every fast car out there would run turbos and it's not even close to the case. Looks like procharger should just close their doors because according to you they're obsolete lol. I go to plenty of events and with just a little bad weather the turbo setups get spanked by nitrous cars all day but I'm sure you'll come back with the turbos weren't set up right when these cars run mid 4's all day in no prep.

98_WS6_M6

iTrader: (18)

Lol. There's no restrictions on grudge racing buddy. I'm not talking about class racing. They also have weight restrictions etc etc. and as far as birdman, didn't he get beat by a nitrous car a few times lol. This isn't the nitrous section so we'll keep on subject. I just went to Super Glued and saw and talked to quite a few centri blower guys. But I guess they're just being stubborn. It's just surprising to me that in competitive racing for big payouts with NO restrictions on anything (weight, chassis, blower size, turbo size, engine size etc) that you're going to find many cars without a turbo. Just interesting. Keep educating me lol

gsteele

^^^ FYI. If he chooses not to answer, it is not because you are making unassailable arguments.

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

Ok it's not a turbo and it's not a centri but it beats both on bling if that counts for anything and it makes decent power, I can't wait to get it under the hood of my 1950 5 window truck!

98_WS6_M6

iTrader: (18)

Can't tell if you're being sarcastic or what but you're welcome to dispute it if you'd like and add to the conversation. I'm all for being educated lol. You can argue anything. You just can't say for a fact that turbos are a better choice 100% of the time. No one is denying they're pretty awesome but so are many other types of setups. ForcedFed is saying turbos are the correct choice 100% of the time and I disagree.

Blown06

iTrader: (32)

To me, my truck was most impressive when it did this:

Drove my truck to the track, weight was 4550lbs, engine was a bored 5.3 with 706 heads and a mild cam. Used an out of the box truck D1sc kit with their 3 core a2a. Stock tensioner, stock crank pulley, out of the box 4" blower pulley, all 6-rib ****. Ran 10.90's at 126 mph. It was mid 1.50's in the 60 foot and 6.90's around 101 mph in the eighth.

SilverSS

iTrader: (30)

I'm a centri guy because that's all know. I did have an STS turbo in the early days and it sucked **** but that doesn't count. To go turbo to make 800+whp and keep the cold ac I have I would have to ditch my stock kmember, exhaust and what else? Believe me, I want to change to turbo because I get "bored" of the set-up, but if sitting in traffic in the heat with half *** working ac and overheating causes a pita, I'll pass. Is there a quality bolt-on turbo "kit" that would satisfy my needs? I'm looking but no luck. I have my F1A setup running pretty damn near perfect and I wouldn't F-it up for more headaches unless I was more serious. I'm just the average garage junkie, not looking to break records. The car I have is however fast enough for me and it works.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

If nothing else, this thread generates views and traffic....

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

That is really amazing! Bob

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

That’s a load of BS. What some random grudge guy feels is a good combo is beside the point. What a car runs at the strip also has nothing to do with how efficient the power adder is.

It’s not an opinion which power adder is more efficient, It is a fact. There is no argument there. If you don’t accept that you’re kidding yourself.

It’s proven in every OPEN major competition motor sport out there. Some are just hard headed, or may have more experience with another type of power adder. Like I said, it takes more than the best power adder to win a race. Because a blower car beat a turbo car, that doesn’t mean the blower was more efficient at making power. Way too many variables during a race.

With the NHRA pansies going to 1/8th mile, it’s more about traction management and less about power production anyway. You can only make so much power on “X” chassis and get it to the ground in the 1/8th. Since either power adder can do that, either can be competitive. The blower will have to work harder or have a higher output engine (more $) than the turbo car to make the same power though.

Which is my whole point. We are talking piddly amounts of power on street cars where most are looking to spend as little as possible to get the most gain. I say a remote mount $190 GT45 turbo kit will stomp your average P1SC kit and cost less... though I admit it is slightly more of a headache to install.

SLOW SEDAN

iTrader: (13)

To add to Forcefeds hp vs cost points noted earlier... I'm not sure what a D1 kit costs but I'm guessing its more then $1300 or so? Because that's all it takes for a garage built turbo kit that runs much faster. For comparison my car was only about 200lbs lighter then your truck. I had a stock 5.3 closing in on 200k miles with a baby stage 1 turbo cam and valve springs, $400 chingy turbo, $300 intercooler, and a DIY built hot and cold side. It routinely drove two hours to the track, ran 9's@140, and drove home.