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4 Questions that are holding me back

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Old Apr 19, 2016 | 01:48 PM
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Talking 4 Questions that are holding me back

Before I go any further with my build I have a few questions:

Can I use my MAF in conjunction with a 3bar MAP for now then switch to SD at a later date?

Is it just plain wrong to mount the MAF right before the turbo where it does not see boost vs after the intercooler and right before the throttle body?

Once I switch to an SD tune can I leave the MAF in front of the turbo and still make use of the IAT sensor (truck MAF) vs cutting the wires all together then wiring an IAT sensor into the intake pipe?

Can the MAF be zeroed out/turned off in HPtuners or does it have to be physically removed when running a SD tune?
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Old Apr 19, 2016 | 09:42 PM
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For the love of.....

Just get rid of the MAF.
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 05:23 AM
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You have over 1600 posts friend, surely you can elaborate.
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 05:53 AM
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Why do you want to use one?
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 06:11 AM
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the maf is maxed at **** all over 400hp worth of airflow. GET RID OF IT
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 06:18 AM
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I was under the impression that anything under 10lbs the maf was ok and helped with drivability.

I have no problem "getting rid" of it, just want to make sure there is a benefit at my level.
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by kainedogg
I was under the impression that anything under 10lbs the maf was ok and helped with drivability.

I have no problem "getting rid" of it, just want to make sure there is a benefit at my level.
My past 3 cars haven't had a maf and they have driven perfectly fine. What is your definition of driveability? My procharged Trans am with speed density drives around in 4th gear at 25 mph with no hiccups at all.

Get rid of the maf
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by kainedogg
You have over 1600 posts friend, surely you can elaborate.
Surely you can search ?

There are few good reasons to keep the MAF.

Yes you can mount it before the turbo....as long as it's in smooth clean air, but the MAF will run out of headroom far far sooner in suck through configuration.
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 08:19 AM
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If you switch to a card slot MAF in a 4" pipe, you'll be ok for a while. You have to run a 1 bar map though.
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by kainedogg
You have over 1600 posts friend, surely you can elaborate.
Originally Posted by kainedogg
Before I go any further with my build I have a few questions:

Can I use my MAF in conjunction with a 3bar MAP for now then switch to SD at a later date?

Not really. In order for HPT to recognize the 3 bar MAP properly, you would have to flash the OS to a 3 Bar tune, which isn't available with a MAF.

Is it just plain wrong to mount the MAF right before the turbo where it does not see boost vs after the intercooler and right before the throttle body?

The IAT is with the MAF. How are you going to get an accurate reading?

Once I switch to an SD tune can I leave the MAF in front of the turbo and still make use of the IAT sensor (truck MAF) vs cutting the wires all together then wiring an IAT sensor into the intake pipe?

So you want to leave a non-working MAF there as a restriction just to use the IAT? The IAT is 2 wires. Cut/strip them, and wire nut them to a $16 sensor/pigtail if you have to. It will take what, 30 seconds?

Can the MAF be zeroed out/turned off in HPtuners or does it have to be physically removed when running a SD tune?

Again, why leave a non-working MAF bolted up as a restriction? If its not being used for anything, take it off and throw it in the garbage. You could also stuff a rag in your intake pipe if you wanted, don't even have to hook wires to it or anything.
My problem is that you want to build or install a turbo setup but seem to have serious issues spending 30 seconds physically removing the MAF sensor or the 5 button clicks it takes in HPT to overwrite a MAF OS with a 3 Bar SD OS. If you can't handle either of those, we will all be seeing your turbo project in the classifieds section for sale very very shortly.

So again, don't half *** it. Just get rid of the MAF...
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 09:16 AM
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I'll remove the MAF, strip the wires and add the IAT sensor. I have one laying around. Just was not sure if it was the way to go. I see now that it is, no worries.

Is this diagram accurate?
Attached Thumbnails 4 Questions that are holding me back-iat.png  

Last edited by kainedogg; Apr 20, 2016 at 09:32 AM.
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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 11:08 AM
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You have a strange infatuation with MAF sensors. Yes, a MAF is more accurate air calculation at low speed airflow values, but speed density cars are more than acceptable in these areas also. You can still run closed loop operation with speed density if you wish. If it makes you feel better, most of the Dodge vehicles (Including the new 707hp Hellcat) do not have MAF sensors. They run on a closed loop Speed density setup, and have been for years. Surely you would agree that a brand new dodge runs smoothly at low speed operation, and also passes even the strictest emissions laws.
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Old Apr 21, 2016 | 10:38 AM
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You lost me? I stated I was doing away with the MAF. I was simply confirming that the wires going to the MAF were the ones I yank or snip and connect to the IAT sensor.

Anyone?
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