Twin turbo 93 LS Notch
11-14-2016, 08:12 AM
#181
Wired a bunch. But I’ll update that all at once.
Got a few other little things done.
Decided to tap the main galley for the turbo feeds. Then setup a 1QT spin-on filter to feed them, tucked it up in the fender area. Using a hydraulic filter that has a check valve and no bypass. Should keep the turbos filtered well and add a QT to the oil system. I’ll run another QT on the main oil filter. Waiting on the turbo feed fittings to finish up turbo supplies.
Used more old aircraft fittings I salvaged off old expired hoses I had sitting around. Little nicer than the standard AN fittings from the usual venders I’ve worked with. Comes with a little collar to separate hose/SS mesh. Opposite end of the collar presses up against a thick rubber O-ring molded into the fitting. They press on like butter.
As suggested above I ordered some shouldered starter bolts. About $3 each on amazon. I’ve always used the F-body starters with one short and one long bolt. Didn’t know the trucks used the 2 long bolts. These were the correct length for this starter, worked great.
Got a few other little things done.
Decided to tap the main galley for the turbo feeds. Then setup a 1QT spin-on filter to feed them, tucked it up in the fender area. Using a hydraulic filter that has a check valve and no bypass. Should keep the turbos filtered well and add a QT to the oil system. I’ll run another QT on the main oil filter. Waiting on the turbo feed fittings to finish up turbo supplies.
Used more old aircraft fittings I salvaged off old expired hoses I had sitting around. Little nicer than the standard AN fittings from the usual venders I’ve worked with. Comes with a little collar to separate hose/SS mesh. Opposite end of the collar presses up against a thick rubber O-ring molded into the fitting. They press on like butter.
As suggested above I ordered some shouldered starter bolts. About $3 each on amazon. I’ve always used the F-body starters with one short and one long bolt. Didn’t know the trucks used the 2 long bolts. These were the correct length for this starter, worked great.
11-14-2016, 04:28 PM
#185
Now this I just don't get??? And this is a blanket statement, or rather question.... Why should it matter what anyone else thinks or likes??? Should a man prefer to build a damn pink dump truck, shouldn't that be up to him??? Now that's not something I would do, but to hell with that as it's not my project to begin with!!! Do what pleases "you" and to hell with everyone else!!! Each man or woman, should be able to build whatever it may be that pleases them themselves, THAT'S ALL THAT MATTERS!!!
You liberals have a tad bit over two months left to get that **** kinda thinking over and done with!!! Jan. 20th to be exact!!! After that, we're going back to the old and proven ways of living our lives!!! As long as you're not hurting anyone else, I say have at it!!! And enjoy your life to it's fullest!!!! Cus man, there's just no guarantee there will be a tomorrow!!!
That socialism crap has now run it's course!!! And thank God for that!!!
11-27-2016, 09:40 AM
#188
7$ ebay Turbo supply fittings finally showed up. Got to finish up the oiling system. Went with 300* push lock hose and china AN4 push lock fittings. 3-way "T" after the oil filter.
Used a cheapo Ebay AMP wiring kit with a 300A ANL fuse. I guess they have 300A breaker boxes that would have been a better choice. Didn't know about these till recently. So I have one on order. For now though I have the main wiring for the starter and pumps. Fuel pumps work like a champ, no leaks. Also filled up the motor and trans with oil. Cranked the motor over and immediately got oil pressure.
Also have the 2 relays tied in to fuse blocks. One up front for the MS3 and one in back for the fuel pump and eventual meth inj ket.
Fuel pump relay tied into this ebay fuse block. Plan to run the meth inj off it as well.
These are the $13 300A breakers. Pretty cool little piece. I can also pop the trunk and flip the breaker at anytime for a anti-theft deal too.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/280633585070?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Used a cheapo Ebay AMP wiring kit with a 300A ANL fuse. I guess they have 300A breaker boxes that would have been a better choice. Didn't know about these till recently. So I have one on order. For now though I have the main wiring for the starter and pumps. Fuel pumps work like a champ, no leaks. Also filled up the motor and trans with oil. Cranked the motor over and immediately got oil pressure.
Also have the 2 relays tied in to fuse blocks. One up front for the MS3 and one in back for the fuel pump and eventual meth inj ket.
Fuel pump relay tied into this ebay fuse block. Plan to run the meth inj off it as well.
These are the $13 300A breakers. Pretty cool little piece. I can also pop the trunk and flip the breaker at anytime for a anti-theft deal too.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/280633585070?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
11-27-2016, 09:53 AM
#189
Tapped the existing vacuum source on the manifold and was able to use the OEM fitting. It slid onto my push lock tubing pretty snug. Ran it to an aluminum Ebay vacuum block. Loosely routed the vac/boost lines to the WG's and BOV's. Once I get the wire harness for the engine I'll secure everything at once with ties to clean it up. Also going with a 90* fitting on the vac block. Still waiting on it to arrive.
Tossed on the Ebay blankets just to make sure they fit.
Used this $30 wheel polish kit to clean up the used draglites. Hard to see in the pics but they came out pretty decent. I had the NOXON stuff laying around and tried it. The supplied mothers polish did a better job.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230756723087?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Routed the brake booster to the top port on the intake. And blocked the aft port off with these nice little ebay silicone caps. Also grabbed 2 19mm (3/4) large size caps to block off the AC and Heater lines on the fire wall. not sure if I'll want AC or Heat in the future at this point so I'm leaving all of it. Looks much better IMO with the block offs.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291436104113?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Just waiting on the engine harness to fire this thing....
Tossed on the Ebay blankets just to make sure they fit.
Used this $30 wheel polish kit to clean up the used draglites. Hard to see in the pics but they came out pretty decent. I had the NOXON stuff laying around and tried it. The supplied mothers polish did a better job.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230756723087?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Routed the brake booster to the top port on the intake. And blocked the aft port off with these nice little ebay silicone caps. Also grabbed 2 19mm (3/4) large size caps to block off the AC and Heater lines on the fire wall. not sure if I'll want AC or Heat in the future at this point so I'm leaving all of it. Looks much better IMO with the block offs.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291436104113?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Just waiting on the engine harness to fire this thing....
Last edited by Forcefed86; 11-30-2016 at 09:43 PM.
11-28-2016, 12:16 PM
#190
Wrapped the driver side manifold. Used up the last of some old ebay heat wrap I had laying around. Secured them with .040 SS safety wire and painted with BBQ grill paint. Done this on all my builds and the paint and SS wire really help this stuff hold up well. It’s water/oil resistant and doesn’t tend to fray. I’d assume it holds in heat a little better as well.
11-28-2016, 12:36 PM
#192
Yup. Actually that paint holds up directly on the manifolds and the turbo exh. housing. Better than any VHT or similar header paint I’ve used. Finish dulls, but protects from rust and what not for years if applied properly.
Here is how it looks after 2 years time on the turbo housing... Greys a little but holds up well.
Here is how it looks after 2 years time on the turbo housing... Greys a little but holds up well.
Last edited by Forcefed86; 11-30-2016 at 10:22 AM.
11-28-2016, 05:28 PM
#193
U are like a mad scientist, well done bro as for me , I would have nothing other then A
fox body as for a street and strip car nothing fits the bill better then a LS Swaped Fox body
Except a LS swaped fox body notch back HAHa
fox body as for a street and strip car nothing fits the bill better then a LS Swaped Fox body
Except a LS swaped fox body notch back HAHa
11-29-2016, 08:31 PM
#194
TECH Fanatic
12-03-2016, 04:20 PM
#196
Used some other wrap I had laying around for the passenger side. I'll use the OEM heat shields over these as well.
Went ahead and took the China WG's apart to inspect and reassemble with Loctite. I suggest everyone running a cheap WG do this.
Used a wood clamp to pull apart and assemble. Easier to watch the diaphragm and make sure you don't pinch it this way too.
Here it is apart. Check teh valve shaft and make sure there are no burrs. The top screws that hold the pressure chamber on always seem to loosen up over time. Had one screw that was literally finger tight. Put a few drops of red loctite on them and reassemble. I like to coat the diaphragm with some silicone around the edge too. Less likely to pinch that way. The squeeze the clamp down just far enough to start all the screws. Then clamp completely and tighten.
Couple more parts came in.
$25 polished SS radiator catch can.
Agrimart.net $39 2.5 gallon poly tank. Nice big 5" lid on these and the bottom is sumped. Much better deal than most of the "alky injection" tanks. It will go in the trunk eventually.
https://agrimart.net/2-5-gallon-rect...nk-spbm2-5-rt/
Went ahead and took the China WG's apart to inspect and reassemble with Loctite. I suggest everyone running a cheap WG do this.
Used a wood clamp to pull apart and assemble. Easier to watch the diaphragm and make sure you don't pinch it this way too.
Here it is apart. Check teh valve shaft and make sure there are no burrs. The top screws that hold the pressure chamber on always seem to loosen up over time. Had one screw that was literally finger tight. Put a few drops of red loctite on them and reassemble. I like to coat the diaphragm with some silicone around the edge too. Less likely to pinch that way. The squeeze the clamp down just far enough to start all the screws. Then clamp completely and tighten.
Couple more parts came in.
$25 polished SS radiator catch can.
Agrimart.net $39 2.5 gallon poly tank. Nice big 5" lid on these and the bottom is sumped. Much better deal than most of the "alky injection" tanks. It will go in the trunk eventually.
https://agrimart.net/2-5-gallon-rect...nk-spbm2-5-rt/
Last edited by Forcefed86; 12-03-2016 at 04:31 PM.
12-12-2016, 03:03 PM
#197
Not much progress, but a word of warning.
If you want to run an OEM dipstick, you’ll need to cut the back half of the motor mount off. The universal style mount hangs way back over the dipstick hole.
Cut it about like this…
Managed to order the wrong dipstick… But the right one is on the way.
Dipstick tube is Dorman PN 917-303
Dipstick is Dorman PN 917-377
If you want to run an OEM dipstick, you’ll need to cut the back half of the motor mount off. The universal style mount hangs way back over the dipstick hole.
Cut it about like this…
Managed to order the wrong dipstick… But the right one is on the way.
Dipstick tube is Dorman PN 917-303
Dipstick is Dorman PN 917-377
12-12-2016, 03:57 PM
#198
86, just wanted to say "thank you" for the unending info, part #s, time etc that you share with the hot rodding world! Mucho appreciated!
12-13-2016, 08:12 AM
#200
Thanks. Back when I started I got most of my info form forums, try to pay it back when I can.
Really only need the engine harness to fire this sucker. Should be drivable at that point. Aknovaman’s been pretty busy lately, hoping to have the harness done shortly. Needs some cosmetic work at that point, new windshield and a few other things. Will need to finish the exhaust and drop in the beefy rear end parts at some point. Then decide if I want to fart with rear brakes. Other than that, it’s pretty much done.
Debating if I really need the alky injection at this point. Goal was 600ish WHP. Thinking I can do that on e85 (or even e50) . If so, alky injection is more weight I probably don’t need. I’ll see how the plugs look without and go from there.
Really only need the engine harness to fire this sucker. Should be drivable at that point. Aknovaman’s been pretty busy lately, hoping to have the harness done shortly. Needs some cosmetic work at that point, new windshield and a few other things. Will need to finish the exhaust and drop in the beefy rear end parts at some point. Then decide if I want to fart with rear brakes. Other than that, it’s pretty much done.
Debating if I really need the alky injection at this point. Goal was 600ish WHP. Thinking I can do that on e85 (or even e50) . If so, alky injection is more weight I probably don’t need. I’ll see how the plugs look without and go from there.