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Hey hows your best way to build boost on the line? I have a 3spd and pushes through the foot brake at 2000rpm would it be best to load it up in 2nd gear then once some boost is built go back to 1st to leave? 3100 stall
Hey hows your best way to build boost on the line? I have a 3spd and pushes through the foot brake at 2000rpm would it be best to load it up in 2nd gear then once some boost is built go back to 1st to leave? 3100 stall
Hell no. Sounds like you need a higher stall converter.
You need a higher stall. The converter is going to flash at the same point no matter what gear our in since it is still trying to move the car. You are only go to see a max rpm the converter allows no matter what gear your in.
Give us the run down of your current brake system.
Loose stalls suck ***!
You need to increase the holding power of the AFT brakes. Drums work best at holding the wheels initially. Better than dual calipers even from what I’ve read. (more surface area to grab) If that’s not an option, increasing the vacuum assist with vacuum pumps, and lengthening the brake pedal for more leverage also help a ton.
Was able to hold back 30lbs with a factory converter. Untouched 4 wheel OEM disc brakes on a 93 talon brake system. Nothing more than a brake pedal extension and 12v vacuum pump on the brake accumulator. 1.3X 60’s on a 235 snow tire (AWD)
Used a 12v heavy duty tire pump plumed back wards for vacuum assist. Like this one...
Stall is the way to do it, period. You dont want to try and push through a converter because that just causes internal damage to it. Same as ballooning it.
Put your car in gear and deck it. Whatever the rpm it stops at on your tach is the flash rpm of the converter. You never want to try and push through that. Some people push through but thats because its not the correct converter for thier HP/weight ect.
You always need to buy the right converter for your combination. Unless its just a fun street car, dont just buy a cheap off the shelf stall converter.
Stall is the way to do it, period. You dont want to try and push through a converter because that just causes internal damage to it. Same as ballooning it.
Put your car in gear and deck it. Whatever the rpm it stops at on your tach is the flash rpm of the converter. You never want to try and push through that. Some people push through but thats because its not the correct converter for thier HP/weight ect.
You always need to buy the right converter for your combination. Unless its just a fun street car, dont just buy a cheap off the shelf stall converter.
I don’t agree. The right converter doesn’t mean a loose converter. Looser you go the less efficient it will be up top and while cruising. It’s not an NA engine and it doesn’t need a converter spec’d like it is. I’m not suggesting he use a dinky converter for big power. Only that It hurts nothing to go beyond what the converter flashes to NA, if the converter is built for the power. Stall point is mainly dependent on power. More power you make, the higher it will stall. You aren’t “pushing through” or damaging anything.
IMO, you want the tightest converter possible that stalls high enough to reach your desired power level at the launch. Since you can vary the power level with boost, this means you can get by with a much tighter converter than you would run NA.
For example I run a “tight” PTC 9.5” converter. See roughly 3000ish flash NA. Once the boost comes in, it will stall past 5k and make 20+ lbs if I let it. I set the 2 step around 3900 an let it rip. Allows for a nice tight converter for cruising, and under 4% slip on the big end.
If the OP is pushing through the brakes at 2k I think there’s a lot of room for improvement before going after a new converter.
I agree forcefed with most of it. But I don't agree with putting that much strain on the trany or converter. Just get a higher stall. You can still street drive a high stall. Our BC race stalls were up to 6500 but they could still drive around at slow speeds, but no they aren't meant for the street.
BTW Forcefed, I have my engine at the machine shop now, putting the cage in this weekend and then starting the turbo layout and build once I get the engine back. Hopefully soon it will be running.
Stall is the way to do it, period. You dont want to try and push through a converter because that just causes internal damage to it. Same as ballooning it.
Put your car in gear and deck it. Whatever the rpm it stops at on your tach is the flash rpm of the converter. You never want to try and push through that. Some people push through but thats because its not the correct converter for thier HP/weight ect.
You always need to buy the right converter for your combination. Unless its just a fun street car, dont What buy a cheap off the shelf stall converter.
What happens to the stall when boost starts building?
Do you not realize the car will push through the brakes at the exact same TQ level of the driveshaft regardless of the TQ converter selection?
What happens to the stall when boost starts building?
Do you not realize the car will push through the brakes at the exact same TQ level of the driveshaft regardless of the TQ converter selection?
Stall rpm increases as power increases. But putting a 1000 hp engine in front of a stock converter that makes it "kinda" stall to 3k doesn't make it the right converter. That's my point. Get a converter that is built for your application. Stop putting a band aid on an axe wound. Do it right.
05-18-2016, 04:51 PM
Building boost no transbrake 
But I don't agree with putting that much strain on the trany or converter. Just get a higher stall. You can still street drive a high stall. Our BC race stalls were up to 6500 but they could still drive around at slow speeds, but no they aren't meant for the street.