TurboTech Kit Overheating?
Thanks
I have some experience with overheating and need the answer to couple of questions and I might be able to offer some help. Do you have a new or older kit? Do you have an air to air intercooler or air to water? Have you removed any of the shrouding around your cooling system such as the air damn, rad cover or rad plate etc.? What size is you motor? What kind of tuning do you have and what's you timing? Do you have a 160 thermo and do your fans come on together.
I wouldn't change your rad or fans, I spoke to Spal and they informed me that the stock system was better for a daily driver and flowed better than most aftermarket setups. The turbo does add heat but a properly setup car with all it's components is more than capable of handling the problem. We need to look elsewhere first to figure out the problem.
I have some experience with overheating and need the answer to couple of questions and I might be able to offer some help. Do you have a new or older kit? Do you have an air to air intercooler or air to water? Have you removed any of the shrouding around your cooling system such as the air damn, rad cover or rad plate etc.? What size is you motor? What kind of tuning do you have and what's you timing? Do you have a 160 thermo and do your fans come on together.
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you have a low temp thermostat? or lower fan settings?
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I don't know if you can buy it in Texas but the is an additive that helped my car huge called Towcool, it is designed for gasoline powered truck that carry heavy loads. The stuff works great.
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I don't know if you can buy it in Texas but the is an additive that helped my car huge called Towcool, it is designed for gasoline powered truck that carry heavy loads. The stuff works great.
You want at least the stock fans which as everyone has mentioned moves more air than most big singles and gives you better flow across the whole radiator with the shroud. The issue is clearance and you'll want to assume that the fans will come back about 4"-4.25" from the radiator based on the specs for the dual SPAL 11" paddle fan kit just to check the clearnce.
Once the fans are reinstalled, if you don't have time to get to LS1 Edit to drop your fan temp settings, pick up the SLP fan switch and then you can manually turn 1 or both fans on when you need them until you get a chance to edit the PCM.
A daily driver should only use Single fans when there is a clearnce issue. Yes they can move some air with the big SPAL 16" pullers, but without the shroud, the only air moving at idle through your radiator is the air in front of that fan. That's a lot of surface area of the raditor that isn't getting air at idle on a daly driver folks.
Once that heat builds up, it isn't going away anytime soon.Remember, if you have an underdrive pulley on the car, the water pump won't be moving as much coolant as it does with the stock pulley.
The big money fixes if these simple things don't work out would be a new 2x1 or 2x1.25 after market radiator from Griffin or BeCool combined with an Evans overdrive water pump which has more flow than stock. You would still run the stock fans until you prove you need a custom dual fan kit with say SPAL 13" curved blade fans and a shroud. You shouldn't need to go this route for a small TTI kit on a stock motor though.
Rick
Last edited by 2001-WS6; Jun 19, 2004 at 12:52 PM.
You want at least the stock fans which as everyone has mentioned moves more air than most big singles and gives you better flow across the whole radiator with the shroud. The issue is clearance and you'll want to assume that the fans will come back about 4"-4.25" from the radiator based on the specs for the dual SPAL 11" paddle fan kit just to check the clearnce.
Once the fans are reinstalled, if you don't have time to get to LS1 Edit to drop your fan temp settings, pick up the SLP fan switch and then you can manually turn 1 or both fans on when you need them until you get a chance to edit the PCM.
A daily driver should only use Single fans when there is a clearnce issue. Yes they can move some air with the big SPAL 16" pullers, but without the shroud, the only air moving at idle through your radiator is the air in front of that fan. That's a lot of surface area of the raditor that isn't getting air at idle on a daly driver folks.
Once that heat builds up, it isn't going away anytime soon.Remember, if you have an underdrive pulley on the car, the water pump won't be moving as much coolant as it does with the stock pulley.
The big money fixes if these simple things don't work out would be a new 2x1 or 2x1.25 after market radiator from Griffin or BeCool combined with an Evans overdrive water pump which has more flow than stock. You would still run the stock fans until you prove you need a custom dual fan kit with say SPAL 13" curved blade fans and a shroud. You shouldn't need to go this route for a small TTI kit on a stock motor though.
Rick
The thermostat by itself just start to open at an earlier temp and starts the flow sooner. It requires the fans to turn on at a lower temp though to be totally effective which is where the LS1 Edit temp tweaks or the manual fan switch is the kicker.

Rick

I say it's the restrictive log, causing the driver side to heat up, and overheat the motor.

I say it's the restrictive log, causing the driver side to heat up, and overheat the motor.
It looks to me like a nice guy in Texas bought a car that's setup for running up north. He has a simple question that is unrelated to any turbo kit since neither of them change fans for clearence issues for the most part. He's looking for some basic help because neither he doesn't have the info and the previous owner appearantly wasn't very involved int he install. Nothing more and nothing less.
A single 15" fan with no shroud (even a SPAL is less than 70% of the stock flow) probably wouldn't keep a stock car cool down in Texas in the summer stop and go traffic.

Rick
Last edited by 2001-WS6; Jun 19, 2004 at 04:42 PM.

I say it's the restrictive log, causing the driver side to heat up, and overheat the motor.
, don't you think I already looked into this with my problems, do a search way back to last year and you'll find my posts on this subject. Lets leave QMP out of this it's not even relevant.We're talking about a stock motor not even the same as my case.
It looks to me like a nice guy in Texas bought a that's setup for running up north. He has a simple question that is unrelated to any turbo kit since neither of them change fans for clearence issues for the most part. He's looking for some basic help because neither he doesn't have the info and the previous owner appearantly wasn't very involved int he install. Nothing more and nothing less.
A single 15" fan with no shroud (even a SPAL is less than 70% of the stock flow) probably wouldn't keep a stock car cool down in Texas in the summer stop and go traffic.

Rick

I say it's the restrictive log, causing the driver side to heat up, and overheat the motor.
The reason his car is overheating is because of the single fan that was put in the place of the dual fans. and the intercooler blocking the radiator don't help any either. Quit prowling around looking for threads to stick up for rob. In time you'll realize the same thing that everyone else has about him. Ohh BTW have you noticed that when you post a question in one the threads rob is in he never answers you? It's starting already for you.





