TurboTech Kit Overheating?
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TurboTech Kit Overheating?
Okay the car is a 99z, 6spd with a turbotech t 60. Car has a hks evc and a hks turbo timer along with a 4inch mufflex catback. The car has been overheating almost all the time. When the ac is turned on maybe 10 minutes afterwards the car temp will start to hit upwards of 250 degress +. I usually end up having to turn the heater on and blast it to just cool the car down. Its not just when the ac is on, by that is mainly when it does happen. My question is, do all the turbo tech kits do this? What do I need to trouble shoot? Upgrade the radiator? Add more fan? I'm lost right now... I'm seriously sick of this crap. I want a fix or what I'm wondering if the kit itself is just garbage? I am in texas so if anyone has this kit in a somewhat comparable climate let me know!! I called up turbotech last week and havent gotten a reply from them, I also sent them two emails.
Thanks
Thanks
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Unusual T/A,
I have some experience with overheating and need the answer to couple of questions and I might be able to offer some help. Do you have a new or older kit? Do you have an air to air intercooler or air to water? Have you removed any of the shrouding around your cooling system such as the air damn, rad cover or rad plate etc.? What size is you motor? What kind of tuning do you have and what's you timing? Do you have a 160 thermo and do your fans come on together.
I wouldn't change your rad or fans, I spoke to Spal and they informed me that the stock system was better for a daily driver and flowed better than most aftermarket setups. The turbo does add heat but a properly setup car with all it's components is more than capable of handling the problem. We need to look elsewhere first to figure out the problem.
I have some experience with overheating and need the answer to couple of questions and I might be able to offer some help. Do you have a new or older kit? Do you have an air to air intercooler or air to water? Have you removed any of the shrouding around your cooling system such as the air damn, rad cover or rad plate etc.? What size is you motor? What kind of tuning do you have and what's you timing? Do you have a 160 thermo and do your fans come on together.
I wouldn't change your rad or fans, I spoke to Spal and they informed me that the stock system was better for a daily driver and flowed better than most aftermarket setups. The turbo does add heat but a properly setup car with all it's components is more than capable of handling the problem. We need to look elsewhere first to figure out the problem.
#4
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i took my thermostat out once and mine ran hot alot! Put stock stat in and it ran normal...surprised me...this was with the TTi kit as well. If you have the stock cooling setup, you have other problems. Either radiator isn't full...stat out or stuck...fans not coming on. Sure the grounds for the fan are tight. There are several grounds in the engine compartment.......make sure those fans are on....
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Originally Posted by Warbird
Unusual T/A,
I have some experience with overheating and need the answer to couple of questions and I might be able to offer some help. Do you have a new or older kit? Do you have an air to air intercooler or air to water? Have you removed any of the shrouding around your cooling system such as the air damn, rad cover or rad plate etc.? What size is you motor? What kind of tuning do you have and what's you timing? Do you have a 160 thermo and do your fans come on together.
.
I have some experience with overheating and need the answer to couple of questions and I might be able to offer some help. Do you have a new or older kit? Do you have an air to air intercooler or air to water? Have you removed any of the shrouding around your cooling system such as the air damn, rad cover or rad plate etc.? What size is you motor? What kind of tuning do you have and what's you timing? Do you have a 160 thermo and do your fans come on together.
.
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Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE
is your radiator full? you running just water or just antifreeze or mix?
you have a low temp thermostat? or lower fan settings?
you have a low temp thermostat? or lower fan settings?
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Originally Posted by Unusual T/A
I don't know how to tell if I have the newer or older kit. What should I check? Its a stock 346 with a cam I have no idea the size. I don't know what type of intercooler I have how do I check? Its whatever comes with the kits. The air damn that sends air up to the radiator is brand new, the original one was taken off when I bought the car. I believe all the plates are there. I haven't checked the timing yet, the car had ls1 edit done to it before I purchased it. I haven't checked the tstat yet, and the car only has one fan a single 15inch. I don't know why that was installed but could that be the problem? Should I be able to use the stock fans? One pushing and one pulling maybe? Thanks a bunch!
I don't know if you can buy it in Texas but the is an additive that helped my car huge called Towcool, it is designed for gasoline powered truck that carry heavy loads. The stuff works great.
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Originally Posted by Debian Dog
You do not have 2 fans?
Thanks
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Originally Posted by Warbird
Well it looks like the fan and shroud were modded when you bought the The very first thing I would do is replace the Fan with the stock fan(s) nothing cools better than those. The single is not up to the task.
I don't know if you can buy it in Texas but the is an additive that helped my car huge called Towcool, it is designed for gasoline powered truck that carry heavy loads. The stuff works great.
I don't know if you can buy it in Texas but the is an additive that helped my car huge called Towcool, it is designed for gasoline powered truck that carry heavy loads. The stuff works great.
#11
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So you bought the car with the TTI kit installed in it? So just confirm with the seller that it is infact the older kit probably. Check to see if there is an underdrive pulley kit installed too. You definitely want to run the 160F T-stat in Texas and it's worth the $40 and 15 minutes to swap one in there if you can't confirm it with the seller.
You want at least the stock fans which as everyone has mentioned moves more air than most big singles and gives you better flow across the whole radiator with the shroud. The issue is clearance and you'll want to assume that the fans will come back about 4"-4.25" from the radiator based on the specs for the dual SPAL 11" paddle fan kit just to check the clearnce.
Once the fans are reinstalled, if you don't have time to get to LS1 Edit to drop your fan temp settings, pick up the SLP fan switch and then you can manually turn 1 or both fans on when you need them until you get a chance to edit the PCM.
A daily driver should only use Single fans when there is a clearnce issue. Yes they can move some air with the big SPAL 16" pullers, but without the shroud, the only air moving at idle through your radiator is the air in front of that fan. That's a lot of surface area of the raditor that isn't getting air at idle on a daly driver folks. Once that heat builds up, it isn't going away anytime soon.
Remember, if you have an underdrive pulley on the car, the water pump won't be moving as much coolant as it does with the stock pulley.
The big money fixes if these simple things don't work out would be a new 2x1 or 2x1.25 after market radiator from Griffin or BeCool combined with an Evans overdrive water pump which has more flow than stock. You would still run the stock fans until you prove you need a custom dual fan kit with say SPAL 13" curved blade fans and a shroud. You shouldn't need to go this route for a small TTI kit on a stock motor though.
Rick
You want at least the stock fans which as everyone has mentioned moves more air than most big singles and gives you better flow across the whole radiator with the shroud. The issue is clearance and you'll want to assume that the fans will come back about 4"-4.25" from the radiator based on the specs for the dual SPAL 11" paddle fan kit just to check the clearnce.
Once the fans are reinstalled, if you don't have time to get to LS1 Edit to drop your fan temp settings, pick up the SLP fan switch and then you can manually turn 1 or both fans on when you need them until you get a chance to edit the PCM.
A daily driver should only use Single fans when there is a clearnce issue. Yes they can move some air with the big SPAL 16" pullers, but without the shroud, the only air moving at idle through your radiator is the air in front of that fan. That's a lot of surface area of the raditor that isn't getting air at idle on a daly driver folks. Once that heat builds up, it isn't going away anytime soon.
Remember, if you have an underdrive pulley on the car, the water pump won't be moving as much coolant as it does with the stock pulley.
The big money fixes if these simple things don't work out would be a new 2x1 or 2x1.25 after market radiator from Griffin or BeCool combined with an Evans overdrive water pump which has more flow than stock. You would still run the stock fans until you prove you need a custom dual fan kit with say SPAL 13" curved blade fans and a shroud. You shouldn't need to go this route for a small TTI kit on a stock motor though.
Rick
Last edited by 2001-WS6; 06-19-2004 at 12:52 PM.
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Originally Posted by 2001-WS6
So you bought the with the TTI kit installed in it? So just confirm with the seller that it is infact the older kit probably. Check to see if there is an underdrive pulley kit installed too. You definitely want to run the 160F T-stat in Texas and it's worth the $40 and 15 minutes to swap one in there if you can't confirm it with the seller.
You want at least the stock fans which as everyone has mentioned moves more air than most big singles and gives you better flow across the whole radiator with the shroud. The issue is clearance and you'll want to assume that the fans will come back about 4"-4.25" from the radiator based on the specs for the dual SPAL 11" paddle fan kit just to check the clearnce.
Once the fans are reinstalled, if you don't have time to get to LS1 Edit to drop your fan temp settings, pick up the SLP fan switch and then you can manually turn 1 or both fans on when you need them until you get a chance to edit the PCM.
A daily driver should only use Single fans when there is a clearnce issue. Yes they can move some air with the big SPAL 16" pullers, but without the shroud, the only air moving at idle through your radiator is the air in front of that fan. That's a lot of surface area of the raditor that isn't getting air at idle on a daly driver folks. Once that heat builds up, it isn't going away anytime soon.
Remember, if you have an underdrive pulley on the car, the water pump won't be moving as much coolant as it does with the stock pulley.
The big money fixes if these simple things don't work out would be a new 2x1 or 2x1.25 after market radiator from Griffin or BeCool combined with an Evans overdrive water pump which has more flow than stock. You would still run the stock fans until you prove you need a custom dual fan kit with say SPAL 13" curved blade fans and a shroud. You shouldn't need to go this route for a small TTI kit on a stock motor though.
Rick
You want at least the stock fans which as everyone has mentioned moves more air than most big singles and gives you better flow across the whole radiator with the shroud. The issue is clearance and you'll want to assume that the fans will come back about 4"-4.25" from the radiator based on the specs for the dual SPAL 11" paddle fan kit just to check the clearnce.
Once the fans are reinstalled, if you don't have time to get to LS1 Edit to drop your fan temp settings, pick up the SLP fan switch and then you can manually turn 1 or both fans on when you need them until you get a chance to edit the PCM.
A daily driver should only use Single fans when there is a clearnce issue. Yes they can move some air with the big SPAL 16" pullers, but without the shroud, the only air moving at idle through your radiator is the air in front of that fan. That's a lot of surface area of the raditor that isn't getting air at idle on a daly driver folks. Once that heat builds up, it isn't going away anytime soon.
Remember, if you have an underdrive pulley on the car, the water pump won't be moving as much coolant as it does with the stock pulley.
The big money fixes if these simple things don't work out would be a new 2x1 or 2x1.25 after market radiator from Griffin or BeCool combined with an Evans overdrive water pump which has more flow than stock. You would still run the stock fans until you prove you need a custom dual fan kit with say SPAL 13" curved blade fans and a shroud. You shouldn't need to go this route for a small TTI kit on a stock motor though.
Rick
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Originally Posted by Warbird
Yes the stock fans and shroud are behind the rad and will fit. Sorry I missed that question.
#15
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Originally Posted by Unusual T/A
I dont want to spend 500 on a radiator and that not fix the problem. I havent thought of a 160 stat because I've read to many people post up about them not being worth it on an ls1. Thanks
The thermostat by itself just start to open at an earlier temp and starts the flow sooner. It requires the fans to turn on at a lower temp though to be totally effective which is where the LS1 Edit temp tweaks or the manual fan switch is the kicker.
Rick
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So WTF is this, who was the QMP basher who had overheating issues!? Then blamed the backpressure or some ****?
I say it's the restrictive log, causing the driver side to heat up, and overheat the motor.
I say it's the restrictive log, causing the driver side to heat up, and overheat the motor.
#17
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Originally Posted by 02BlueFirehawk
So WTF is this, who was the QMP basher who had overheating issues!? Then blamed the backpressure or some ****?
I say it's the restrictive log, causing the driver side to heat up, and overheat the motor.
I say it's the restrictive log, causing the driver side to heat up, and overheat the motor.
It looks to me like a nice guy in Texas bought a car that's setup for running up north. He has a simple question that is unrelated to any turbo kit since neither of them change fans for clearence issues for the most part. He's looking for some basic help because neither he doesn't have the info and the previous owner appearantly wasn't very involved int he install. Nothing more and nothing less.
A single 15" fan with no shroud (even a SPAL is less than 70% of the stock flow) probably wouldn't keep a stock car cool down in Texas in the summer stop and go traffic.
Rick
Last edited by 2001-WS6; 06-19-2004 at 04:42 PM.
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Originally Posted by 02BlueFirehawk
So WTF is this, who was the QMP basher who had overheating issues!? Then blamed the backpressure or some ****?
I say it's the restrictive log, causing the driver side to heat up, and overheat the motor.
I say it's the restrictive log, causing the driver side to heat up, and overheat the motor.
We're talking about a stock motor not even the same as my case.
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Originally Posted by 2001-WS6
You're being boring now.
It looks to me like a nice guy in Texas bought a that's setup for running up north. He has a simple question that is unrelated to any turbo kit since neither of them change fans for clearence issues for the most part. He's looking for some basic help because neither he doesn't have the info and the previous owner appearantly wasn't very involved int he install. Nothing more and nothing less.
A single 15" fan with no shroud (even a SPAL is less than 70% of the stock flow) probably wouldn't keep a stock car cool down in Texas in the summer stop and go traffic.
Rick
It looks to me like a nice guy in Texas bought a that's setup for running up north. He has a simple question that is unrelated to any turbo kit since neither of them change fans for clearence issues for the most part. He's looking for some basic help because neither he doesn't have the info and the previous owner appearantly wasn't very involved int he install. Nothing more and nothing less.
A single 15" fan with no shroud (even a SPAL is less than 70% of the stock flow) probably wouldn't keep a stock car cool down in Texas in the summer stop and go traffic.
Rick
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Originally Posted by 02BlueFirehawk
So WTF is this, who was the QMP basher who had overheating issues!? Then blamed the backpressure or some ****?
I say it's the restrictive log, causing the driver side to heat up, and overheat the motor.
I say it's the restrictive log, causing the driver side to heat up, and overheat the motor.