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Maybe FiTech learned LS engines matter? :)

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Old 09-06-2017, 09:05 AM
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Agreed, You would need a standalone tranny controller like the FAST, MSD or GM version. However... how do the standalone tranny controllers work? You could run a 4l80e with a controller behind a carbed 5.3 or BBC etc. It would essentially be the same thing either way so maybe it is possible.
Old 09-06-2017, 09:19 AM
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A stand alone trans controller always runs the transmission the same, it doesn't know if the engine is hot or cold.
Old 09-06-2017, 10:06 AM
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Maybe thats how the tranny section is configured in the FItech system. Seems like its could be a possibility. But You would know better as you have the tranny controlled PCM.

I would also think that engine temp is not really needed for tranny operation. Tranny temp matters to the tranny, engine not so much.
Old 09-06-2017, 11:42 AM
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TPS and trans output speed sensor for the most part, you do need RPM's for some of the controls
I have used the Compushift trans Controllers on non LS engines, but they cost as much as the 70051, lol
Old 09-06-2017, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Paul Bell
A stand alone trans controller always runs the transmission the same, it doesn't know if the engine is hot or cold.
That assumes the controller you choose/use does not desire that information ?

Pretty sure some of the better controllers out there will prefer to have various engine information provided to it.
Old 03-15-2018, 01:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Paul Bell
I was actually linked to this thread from a post in a thread I started over at Chevelles.

I received the 70051 stand alone system yesterday. It's very nice, complete and nothing damaged. It was in stock at Summit.

I don't think anybody in this thread mentioned it, this is a speed density system, no MAF.

The injector harnesses are for LS1 injectors. If you're using EV6 injectors, you'll need adapters or need to change the plugs.

The harness sections are too long, I'm sure most users will shorten everything up.

My twist is I'm installing this on my 496 big block, which has been outfitted with LS1 sensors.

I have a bunch of other things to do so it'll be a while before I actually fire this system up.
does any of this wiring deal with the starter?
Old 03-15-2018, 04:50 AM
  #107  
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Only the battery side of the starter "heavy red wire". No wires that go to the solenoid to actually turn the engine over. You will have to configure the "start wire" from the key.
Old 03-18-2018, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by dawgs74
does any of this wiring deal with the starter?
No. The main power for the Fitech system is a wire they recommend (actually almost insist) you run to the battery.

You COULD run it to the main battery lug at the starter.

As far as starting duties, your vehicle's starter circuit handles that. The Fitech system knows when you're trying to run it from the IGN wire (powered when the key is in the "on" and "start" positions) and when it sees signal from the cam & crank sensors. Just like the GM PCM, low RPM means you're starting the engine and the ECM does the needed start spark and fuel adjustments.
Old 03-18-2018, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Paul Bell
No. The main power for the Fitech system is a wire they recommend (actually almost insist) you run to the battery.

You COULD run it to the main battery lug at the starter.

As far as starting duties, your vehicle's starter circuit handles that. The Fitech system knows when you're trying to run it from the IGN wire (powered when the key is in the "on" and "start" positions) and when it sees signal from the cam & crank sensors. Just like the GM PCM, low RPM means you're starting the engine and the ECM does the needed start spark and fuel adjustments.
so can I use the ign.tab on my fuse box to pull power for 12v keyed.......and off the topic,can u use the fitec for just spark and timing control and run a carb, or is it strictly efi
Old 04-10-2018, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by dawgs74
so can I use the ign.tab on my fuse box to pull power for 12v keyed.......and off the topic,can u use the fitec for just spark and timing control and run a carb, or is it strictly efi
have my 70050 installed on my 5.3....it will start for a second then just die......it's getting fuel and spark... is there a preset tune I can run for 5.3 24x trans off.....I'm so close I can feel it ....I know it's sumthin stupid anybody got any clues?
Old 09-05-2018, 10:11 AM
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any update on how this this is running now?
Old 09-05-2018, 05:35 PM
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Yea mine is running great.....to the point where I built another 5.3 and put it in a '68 c10 in under a month with just my two hand.....(people tend to just get in my way), in the nova it took about 6 months, I guess it's the learning curve. .lol....anyhow I like the fact that since both my builds were n/a the system is user friendly and I don't need a laptop to get it running, if your just doing a simple cammed lsx then I'd say it's a great buy!!! I'd post a video but it says cannot post mp3pics nonsense
Old 09-05-2018, 07:35 PM
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How do you upload videos? I cannot figure it out....
Old 09-06-2018, 07:15 AM
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I always find it easier to just upload them to YouTube and then post the link to the video

I will be NA for a while but might boost it later.
just looking for the cheapest option to get it running right now.
Old 09-06-2018, 10:29 AM
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I loaded to YouTube but I cannot figure out how to post link
Old 09-06-2018, 12:54 PM
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copy and paste... or as a last resort, type it in manually lol
Old 07-15-2019, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by H.P.Ranch1
Only the battery side of the starter "heavy red wire". No wires that go to the solenoid to actually turn the engine over. You will have to configure the "start wire" from the key.
I am putting the 500 hp kit on my 5.3l and am confused as to what the 2 red wires with the post connectors are for next to the crank sensor. They say starter but where do they go? Also any pictures or insight as to the best way to route this wiring harness?
Old 07-15-2019, 11:17 PM
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Jack, on page 8 in the installation manual, the red wires (#2) go to the battery terminal on the starter. OR you can connect it directly to the positive lug on the battery.

Also on page 8, the red wire (#4) goes to any wire in your car that becomes live when the ignition key is on or when cranking the engine. When the ignition key is off, this wire should be dead.

What vehicle are you installing this in to?



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