Installing new unpinned balancer question
Installing new unpinned balancer question I have a pinned balancer and crank and am wondering what the best way to install a new balancer that is not pinned. My old balancer failed so its time for a replacement. The obvious issue is that the new balancer is not pinned. I am concerned with proper alignment and re-drilling the new balancer for the pin. I know there is a lot of experience with pins in here so any help is appreciated. Thanks guys.
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
If you are incapable of aligning the tool and drilling a new hole in the same place...then just drill a totally new hole.
either option should not be difficult.
Or at a push, go a slight step larger in drill size and have a new pin made up to suit. Again, not difficult
either option should not be difficult.
Or at a push, go a slight step larger in drill size and have a new pin made up to suit. Again, not difficult
I had thought of having my buddy mach. make me a rod the dia of the pin,
then mill it aprx 1/2 the hole dia on part of it, so you could stick it thru the holding device, lock it in place, then hopefully drill it pretty dam close.
You could prob just take a bolt and cut it down and get close
then mill it aprx 1/2 the hole dia on part of it, so you could stick it thru the holding device, lock it in place, then hopefully drill it pretty dam close.
You could prob just take a bolt and cut it down and get close
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
I had thought of having my buddy mach. make me a rod the dia of the pin,
then mill it aprx 1/2 the hole dia on part of it, so you could stick it thru the holding device, lock it in place, then hopefully drill it pretty dam close.
You could prob just take a bolt and cut it down and get close
then mill it aprx 1/2 the hole dia on part of it, so you could stick it thru the holding device, lock it in place, then hopefully drill it pretty dam close.
You could prob just take a bolt and cut it down and get close
Drill the hole, fit pin, job done.
If you feel the bit might wander a little, just step up in drill size a little.
I've done a few and went from initial that was 6.25, through 6.3, 6.4 and 6.5mm. At a push I even just cut the drill bit and used it for a pin once.
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Ok. Job was accomplished with relative ease. Aligning the tool was not difficult but with a condenser, intercooler, and just a lowered sway bar I had to get a little creative to see it. (Corvette) The tool I was using was aluminum, steel would have been better. The first go round with a brand new bit caused deflection and snapped the bit with very little pressure. I blame this on a cheap bit and the aluminum tool. The tool showed wear but I felt with a quality bit that was worn a little it would not bite so hard. Worked fine after that.
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I am in the exact same position as you were. I have a previously drilled crank, and am installing a new SFI approved balancer instead of the original FBody damper.
Problem I see is when you start drilling a "half" circle to create the other half circle into the damper, the drill bit will want to "walk over" into the half circle hole that was previously created in the crank. Did you not experience this? The only way I see it being possible is to just leave the old half circle in the crank and drill a new pair at another location...
Problem I see is when you start drilling a "half" circle to create the other half circle into the damper, the drill bit will want to "walk over" into the half circle hole that was previously created in the crank. Did you not experience this? The only way I see it being possible is to just leave the old half circle in the crank and drill a new pair at another location...
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
I am in the exact same position as you were. I have a previously drilled crank, and am installing a new SFI approved balancer instead of the original FBody damper.
Problem I see is when you start drilling a "half" circle to create the other half circle into the damper, the drill bit will want to "walk over" into the half circle hole that was previously created in the crank. Did you not experience this? The only way I see it being possible is to just leave the old half circle in the crank and drill a new pair at another location...
Problem I see is when you start drilling a "half" circle to create the other half circle into the damper, the drill bit will want to "walk over" into the half circle hole that was previously created in the crank. Did you not experience this? The only way I see it being possible is to just leave the old half circle in the crank and drill a new pair at another location...
If you're really concerned, just go a slight bit bigger so there is actual load against the other side of the bit.
I've went from 6.2 to 6.3 to 6.4 to 6.5mm steps when re-using the same pulley on different cranks at different times over the last 10 years or so.
If it's a forged crank, a cobalt drill bit will go through it easily
I am in the exact same position as you were. I have a previously drilled crank, and am installing a new SFI approved balancer instead of the original FBody damper.
Problem I see is when you start drilling a "half" circle to create the other half circle into the damper, the drill bit will want to "walk over" into the half circle hole that was previously created in the crank. Did you not experience this? The only way I see it being possible is to just leave the old half circle in the crank and drill a new pair at another location...
Problem I see is when you start drilling a "half" circle to create the other half circle into the damper, the drill bit will want to "walk over" into the half circle hole that was previously created in the crank. Did you not experience this? The only way I see it being possible is to just leave the old half circle in the crank and drill a new pair at another location...