what's the secret
I haven’t read up enough on the MAF tuning and don’t use it, so I’m no use there. I don’t see how the average DIY hot rodder can verify that the MAF readings are accurate though. Unless you were setup with a ton of expensive test rigs like the OEM’s use I’d think the numbers reported back from the MAF would be a guess. Similar to SD. Then the tuner uses the 02 readings to trim from there. Which is fine and does work… but that doesn’t mean the MAF reading is super accurate representation of the air the engine ingests. Would be cool to know for sure my engine was taking in exactly 90lb/min of airflow VS “X”lb/min fuel flow.
Dodge tunes are all speed density, drive by wire (torque based).
The later models say 2012 on have a highly sophisticated Nueral Network that governs the whole operation. 2015 on are wideband based.
I will say I can dial in and SD map in about the same time. Most software has a VE map generator to get you in the ball park. You can easily pop off the waste gate and “auto tune” the 100KPA WOT range from there. Once dialed in you can double those VE values per bar of boost on the map and interpolate between the cells. From there I use “auto tune” to trim the rest of the VE table.
At that point you can lock the VE table and rely on a 5-10% closed loop AFR to adjust fueling on the fly and it takes care of 99% of my needs for a cruise and WOT tune on a hot rod. It’s not like you have to hit every cell/load individually on a VE map to tune SD. It’s pretty linear once you have the 100KPA row mapped out.
I will say I can dial in and SD map in about the same time. Most software has a VE map generator to get you in the ball park. You can easily pop off the waste gate and “auto tune” the 100KPA WOT range from there. Once dialed in you can double those VE values per bar of boost on the map and interpolate between the cells. From there I use “auto tune” to trim the rest of the VE table.
At that point you can lock the VE table and rely on a 5-10% closed loop AFR to adjust fueling on the fly and it takes care of 99% of my needs for a cruise and WOT tune on a hot rod. It’s not like you have to hit every cell/load individually on a VE map to tune SD. It’s pretty linear once you have the 100KPA row mapped out.
it really isnt that hard for me to get my stuff to within a couple %, i can usually get it really close with a couple logs. Might take a few more if the data isnt great, like a pedaling pull or something like that.
it really isnt that hard for me to get my stuff to within a couple %, i can usually get it really close with a couple logs. Might take a few more if the data isnt great, like a pedaling pull or something like that.
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it sounds like the biggest reason you think sd is harder is because you dont have as much experience with sd as you do with maf tunes. I havent touched a maf tune in years and it would take me forever to get the tune dialed in as well as im sure you can do it in an afternoon.
it sounds like the biggest reason you think sd is harder is because you dont have as much experience with sd as you do with maf tunes. I havent touched a maf tune in years and it would take me forever to get the tune dialed in as well as im sure you can do it in an afternoon.
with the OLSD it's always nice and smooth
Currently trying to put it back towards stock type operation using the narrowbands/closed loop and it drives like **** even with tiny tiny baby cam. I'm not even sure what to try with it next.
I actually do tune the MAF below idle. Using the VCM control, slow the idle down a little at a time and you can tune those cells.
Helps on stick shift cars when driving away from stops and the rpm dips below idle.
My Nova runs CLSD. Again only using STFT.
I agree MAF tuning is much easier.
I find VE tuning to be tedious as I prefer to hit as many cells as possible. A little difficult with a high stall converter.
We can hit cells more easily on the dyno, but to get enough hits per cell is hard in the car at high load high rpm.
Things near the exh tend to melt......
I paid my tuner once $300 and he's a great enough guy he lets me come back and make changes without charging me so the $500 every visit doesn't apply to me luckily.
I've got maybe $2,500 in this setup start to finish over three years so I've gotta stretch my dollars and utilize them effectively and carefully right down to how much insurance and fuel I can use for the summer.
I'm attempting Champagne horsepower on an orange juice budget lmao.
My wife is a big photography nut so I was thinking I could kill two birds with one stone but I may have to figure out something else for her.
I have decided this is the last change I will make using an outside tuner, I'm going to start looking for used HP Tuners and inexpensive laptops to start handling this in-house.
I know I already asked this question regarding reading material but is there a book you'd recommend Gameova?
Several guys suggested some forums but I spend so much time on a computer everyday a book is really refreshing and what I'd prefer read.
Only mildly realted questions, but some people discussed knock sensors etc - With straight 93 octane I get audible pinging at WOT on my nearly stock transam. I use TORCO to bump the octane up a few points and have no issues afterwards. (Car has been driven 600 miles in 3 years, not a big deal). But aside from the fact that I shouldn't be getting knock in the first place, shouldn't the knock sensors pull back enough timing to kill the knock? I suspect my car has an aggressive and/or shitty tune. I have no codes showing up and it runs great, smooth and like a raped ape when on it - for a stock car anyway.
Only mildly realted questions, but some people discussed knock sensors etc - With straight 93 octane I get audible pinging at WOT on my nearly stock transam. I use TORCO to bump the octane up a few points and have no issues afterwards. (Car has been driven 600 miles in 3 years, not a big deal). But aside from the fact that I shouldn't be getting knock in the first place, shouldn't the knock sensors pull back enough timing to kill the knock? I suspect my car has an aggressive and/or shitty tune. I have no codes showing up and it runs great, smooth and like a raped ape when on it - for a stock car anyway.
And some systems are ****, some are excellent...and many in between.
Likewise with those saying MAF tuning is easy...probably helped because GM has already done most of the work for you and you're just adjusting things
If you were starting with a blank sheet and a completely blank calibration...it would be a lot more work
And some systems are ****, some are excellent...and many in between.
Likewise with those saying MAF tuning is easy...probably helped because GM has already done most of the work for you and you're just adjusting things
If you were starting with a blank sheet and a completely blank calibration...it would be a lot more work












