the colorado budget repower
#21
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I just have to say what you are doing for the car community is awesome. This is hot rodding at its best.
Before I went turbo ls, I played with carbed stroker small blocks and the old guys treated the information like secret recipes... it was tough learning. With your information, I had the confidence to go forward alone.
Before I went turbo ls, I played with carbed stroker small blocks and the old guys treated the information like secret recipes... it was tough learning. With your information, I had the confidence to go forward alone.
This is exactly why I'm swapping in a Turbo LS into my 75 Dodge Dart. Plus now I get to **** off almost every Mopar Owner out there when I make more power, and run more consistently that their cars, for less money.
#23
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Anyway you could see how much RPM that spring/cam combo is capable of? I’d think 6k is way under revving it for that cam on a 4.8? Maybe drop the boost and rev it out to 7k to see if the springs will allow it? The gen3 rods may live longer if you don’t hammer them with tons of power/boost at lower RPM too.
We are doing some pump testing with multiple $23 044 clones at the moment. So far results are pretty awesome. 100+psi no problem. 2 of these inline (boost activated) with a 450 supply could bump your pressure up to 130+ range… making those 72lb injectors act like 125lb injectors for under $50. I'll send them to you after we are done with the tests if you want to play with them.
We are doing some pump testing with multiple $23 044 clones at the moment. So far results are pretty awesome. 100+psi no problem. 2 of these inline (boost activated) with a 450 supply could bump your pressure up to 130+ range… making those 72lb injectors act like 125lb injectors for under $50. I'll send them to you after we are done with the tests if you want to play with them.
#24
8 Second Club
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I sent roastin240 3 pumps to test in different configurations of inline and parallel. He will note the flow/pressure characteristics and post all the info when testing is complete. Idea was to use a reliable in-tank pump for cruising and only use these $23 pumps as boosters to keep them semi-reliable.
#25
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The 044 pump style can be mounted in front of any pump and fuel will blow right through when the 044 isn't active. You can activate it anyway you like. Use your ECU, a boost pressure switch, WOT switch, etc.
I sent roastin240 3 pumps to test in different configurations of inline and parallel. He will note the flow/pressure characteristics and post all the info when testing is complete. Idea was to use a reliable in-tank pump for cruising and only use these $23 pumps as boosters to keep them semi-reliable.
I sent roastin240 3 pumps to test in different configurations of inline and parallel. He will note the flow/pressure characteristics and post all the info when testing is complete. Idea was to use a reliable in-tank pump for cruising and only use these $23 pumps as boosters to keep them semi-reliable.
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#26
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The 044 pump style can be mounted in front of any pump and fuel will blow right through when the 044 isn't active. You can activate it anyway you like. Use your ECU, a boost pressure switch, WOT switch, etc.
I sent roastin240 3 pumps to test in different configurations of inline and parallel. He will note the flow/pressure characteristics and post all the info when testing is complete. Idea was to use a reliable in-tank pump for cruising and only use these $23 pumps as boosters to keep them semi-reliable.
I sent roastin240 3 pumps to test in different configurations of inline and parallel. He will note the flow/pressure characteristics and post all the info when testing is complete. Idea was to use a reliable in-tank pump for cruising and only use these $23 pumps as boosters to keep them semi-reliable.
#27
8 Second Club
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Any super cheap china clone pump is pretty unreliable IMO. If it's not seeing constant duty though, the reliability goes way up. Shouldn’t be much of an issue if only used for extremely short bursts. Genuine walbros or bosch pumps seem pretty darn reliable depending on the fuel used.
#28
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Any super cheap china clone pump is pretty unreliable IMO. If it's not seeing constant duty though, the reliability goes way up. Shouldn’t be much of an issue if only used for extremely short bursts. Genuine walbros or bosch pumps seem pretty darn reliable depending on the fuel used.
#29
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So far I am blown away at the repeatability between all 3 pumps and their flow ability at high pressure. From 40-100psi the flow decreases proportionally...no hard drop like observed with the Walbros. These are behaving just like the GENUINE Bosch 044's during my testing. i was having some voltage control issues with a battery and charger driving 3 pumps, so I just managed to track down a 0-30V 50amp capable power supply so i will be resuming testing next week when I am back in town.
I plan to expand the testing to 12V (people with struggling alternators), 14V (people who have a quality charging system), and 16V (People who run fuel pump boosters).
I will be providing flow versus pressure, applied voltage and resultant current in the following configurations, at all 3 voltage set points:
1. Pump #1 solo
2. Pump #2 solo
3. Pump #3 solo
(they are very repeatable with acceptable flow variance from pump to pump so the remaining tests will use pump #1 and pump#2 for the dual pump configurations)
4. 2 pumps in parallel
5. 2 pumps in series
6. 2 pumps in parallel feeding T'ed together and feeding the 3rd pump in series
7. 3 pumps in parallel
8. 3 pumps in series
This is going to be a **** ton of data. I basically expanded the original test plan from 5 tests to 24 tests. But this should be solid data for our community. I will be posting it in a new thread on here and attaching the writeup in word document form for download.
Thank you ForceFed86 for dropping the $150 for pumps, hose, fittings, etc. I am performing all of the work with precision instrumentation that I luckily have access to for free from work and I have only had to spend around $50 so far for odds and ends, but will have an easy 60+ hours into it all said and done with the write-up.
Sorry for jacking your thread Matt.
I plan to expand the testing to 12V (people with struggling alternators), 14V (people who have a quality charging system), and 16V (People who run fuel pump boosters).
I will be providing flow versus pressure, applied voltage and resultant current in the following configurations, at all 3 voltage set points:
1. Pump #1 solo
2. Pump #2 solo
3. Pump #3 solo
(they are very repeatable with acceptable flow variance from pump to pump so the remaining tests will use pump #1 and pump#2 for the dual pump configurations)
4. 2 pumps in parallel
5. 2 pumps in series
6. 2 pumps in parallel feeding T'ed together and feeding the 3rd pump in series
7. 3 pumps in parallel
8. 3 pumps in series
This is going to be a **** ton of data. I basically expanded the original test plan from 5 tests to 24 tests. But this should be solid data for our community. I will be posting it in a new thread on here and attaching the writeup in word document form for download.
Thank you ForceFed86 for dropping the $150 for pumps, hose, fittings, etc. I am performing all of the work with precision instrumentation that I luckily have access to for free from work and I have only had to spend around $50 so far for odds and ends, but will have an easy 60+ hours into it all said and done with the write-up.
Sorry for jacking your thread Matt.
#35
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I couldn't agree more BudRacing!
Currently I'm building a rather long term BMW E39 540i6 Turbo setup inspired by the Denmah in a lot of ways, but I really want to build a turbo LS old Dodge Dakota in true Sloppy Mechanic style now... Can't wait to finish this damn bimmer, haha..
Currently I'm building a rather long term BMW E39 540i6 Turbo setup inspired by the Denmah in a lot of ways, but I really want to build a turbo LS old Dodge Dakota in true Sloppy Mechanic style now... Can't wait to finish this damn bimmer, haha..
#37
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Not as far as I can see. He'll most likely post it here when he's done with it.
http://sloppymechanics.com/tune-cabinet/
http://sloppymechanics.com/tune-cabinet/
#38
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Hey Matt
I put a leftover sbc350 in my 04. The first time I hooked up the return it spiked the regulator so I figured it was blocked. I switched the line and now I have fuel coming from my charcoal can. There were only 3 lines coming from the motor so I'm at a loss.
I put a leftover sbc350 in my 04. The first time I hooked up the return it spiked the regulator so I figured it was blocked. I switched the line and now I have fuel coming from my charcoal can. There were only 3 lines coming from the motor so I'm at a loss.
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Is there something in the tank stopping fuel to return on the original set up. Something that the computer controls to keep pressure or is it sending it back somehow the the charcoal can then to the tank. Matt has the same truck so that's why I asked. He's used the factory supply and return during the first parts of his build.
I just thought I'd ask before I start tearing things apart.