Project Hairy Banana (1967 Camaro single turbo)
#883
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 10,221
Likes: 1,510
From: The City of Fountains
From there I'll take care of the Holley EFI programming.
Andrew
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will69camaro (06-15-2021)
#888
Last edited by gjohnsonws6; 06-14-2021 at 11:21 PM.
#889
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 44,817
Likes: 1,244
From: Chicago, IL
Yeah I would have driven it a bunch more the other day except I want it to operate a wee bit cooler and I wasn't sure my gas situation (have not set up the gauge yet).
Next time I drive I'll try to get vid of me making some boost.
Next time I drive I'll try to get vid of me making some boost.
#890
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 44,817
Likes: 1,244
From: Chicago, IL
Car runs and drives and stops very decent.
Runs a little warmer than I want, let's say 208 ish and got to 214 idling in one place for 10 minutes.
So my plan is:
1- to lower the ON setting for my Contour fan to 185 from 195
2- raise up my fan as much as I can so long as I can still remove the charge pipe, 1.5 maybe 2 inches up. So my question is can I use just use radiator ties, 4 up top, and 2 or 4 at the bottom? I won't really have the ability to have mounting tabs made anytime soon.
Runs a little warmer than I want, let's say 208 ish and got to 214 idling in one place for 10 minutes.
So my plan is:
1- to lower the ON setting for my Contour fan to 185 from 195
2- raise up my fan as much as I can so long as I can still remove the charge pipe, 1.5 maybe 2 inches up. So my question is can I use just use radiator ties, 4 up top, and 2 or 4 at the bottom? I won't really have the ability to have mounting tabs made anytime soon.
#891
You can use them but I've seen them damage the rad with long term/high mileage use . Sounds like that fan might not be enough , nearly 20° hotter than fan on temp. Turning it on earlier will only help delay the hi temps. Have you got minimal gaps between rad and rad support? To reduce air recirculation. Also air deflector on bottom of rad support will help get air through the rad while moving, won't help while still ( other than reducing recirculation) but if you can reduce temp while driving it will buy you a little time while stopped at lights
#892
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 44,817
Likes: 1,244
From: Chicago, IL
I have about a 1.75 gap tween the rad and cooler, basically the thickness of the Rhodes core support.
I have not really driven the car for a prolonged length at speed, like 60 mph for a mile or two, but from the little stuff I did seems like the car will drop a few degrees going 30 mph.
I can't really say the fan is not enough yet, there are a few little things might be contributing to the temps.. fan too low (dual pass radiator), crossover not wrapped.
Andrew Borodin the tuner suggested I also try to add coolant via the steam line too, I can try that and see if it takes any.
Let's see what happens.
I have not really driven the car for a prolonged length at speed, like 60 mph for a mile or two, but from the little stuff I did seems like the car will drop a few degrees going 30 mph.
I can't really say the fan is not enough yet, there are a few little things might be contributing to the temps.. fan too low (dual pass radiator), crossover not wrapped.
Andrew Borodin the tuner suggested I also try to add coolant via the steam line too, I can try that and see if it takes any.
Let's see what happens.
#893
Just another thought if you haven't already would be to try water wetter.
I used that in my previous 4th gen Camaro and it helped bring the temps down about 10 degrees and seemed to help the car cool down faster after a pull.
It never overheated but would get warm in stop and go as well and after adding that seemed to help slow the rise in heat and recover after moving.
I used that in my previous 4th gen Camaro and it helped bring the temps down about 10 degrees and seemed to help the car cool down faster after a pull.
It never overheated but would get warm in stop and go as well and after adding that seemed to help slow the rise in heat and recover after moving.
#894
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 44,817
Likes: 1,244
From: Chicago, IL
I'll keep water wetter in mind, the temps the car was running were not really bad, if it was naturally aspirated I'd not even give it too much thought for now.
But since it's turbo, I'd like find out what the best I can get it to cool to the middle of the summer. I have been watching RMRW videos all week lol.
But since it's turbo, I'd like find out what the best I can get it to cool to the middle of the summer. I have been watching RMRW videos all week lol.
#895
I'll keep water wetter in mind, the temps the car was running were not really bad, if it was naturally aspirated I'd not even give it too much thought for now.
But since it's turbo, I'd like find out what the best I can get it to cool to the middle of the summer. I have been watching RMRW videos all week lol.
But since it's turbo, I'd like find out what the best I can get it to cool to the middle of the summer. I have been watching RMRW videos all week lol.
#896
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 44,817
Likes: 1,244
From: Chicago, IL
26.000 in.
Overall Height (in.):
19.000 in.
Overall Thickness (in):
3.125 in.
Row Quantity:
2
Radiator Finish:
Natural
Core Width (in.):
20.750 in.
Core Height (in.):
18.125 in.
Core Thickness (in.):
2.250 in.
I got my fan from Rock Auto, 1994 Taurus fan (single).
Overall Height (in.):
19.000 in.
Overall Thickness (in):
3.125 in.
Row Quantity:
2
Radiator Finish:
Natural
Core Width (in.):
20.750 in.
Core Height (in.):
18.125 in.
Core Thickness (in.):
2.250 in.
I got my fan from Rock Auto, 1994 Taurus fan (single).
Last edited by Pro Stock John; 06-19-2021 at 07:22 PM.
#897
I think your rad is adequate, air flow is going to be the key now . I've tried the water wetter in 3 vehicles, none LS though and saw no difference- waste of money and time IMO. With a tight engine bay you have to make sure that any air the fan has pulled through the rad can't find it's way back to the front of the rad - the recirculation i mentioned earlier. Of course the fan must be up to job also , don't know anything about the contour fan - sorry
#898
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 44,817
Likes: 1,244
From: Chicago, IL
I don't believe in Water Wetter either but for the hell of it I ordered some. So next time I drive the car I'll have the fan ON at 185 and I will have put in 2 bottles of Water Wetter. Let's see what happens. I'm not going to move the fan up, seems risky to have it only mounted with zip ties, and I like that it's bolted at the bottom right now.
I am looking at a Derale shroud/fan combo, looks like it would cover better, but I need to double check it's a 17" fan and not a 16".
I am looking at a Derale shroud/fan combo, looks like it would cover better, but I need to double check it's a 17" fan and not a 16".
#899
That looks like the 3L fan , not the powerful 3.8L Taurus fan . Is it a 2speed design? FWIW With the 3.8 2 speed you can't power up low and high at the same time - creates an internal struggle. Also i think forcefed had a problem with aftermarket version of the Taurus fan - high motor temps and poor performance. I'm planning on using the derale 17" rad high output fan on a couple of upcoming projects, not sure which shroud or unshrouded version yet. Doesn't look like you have a lot of room there but you you should be able to get 1 of them to fit. Doesn't look like the 3.8L Taurus fan would fit though. Keep us posted
#900
John, figure it’s gonna run 110-120° hotter than ambient. Just make sure it stabilizes temps and doesn’t puke all over or actually overheat. City driving at 30-40 mph is gonna build heat. Quit worryin about it and go drive it ALOT! I bet it’s fine.