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16” Spal fan sealed to the core, dual core aluminum radiator that measures 23 x 18 plus the tanks, stat that’s held open, simple Jaz overflow tank. I run antifreeze, no water wetter. Treadstone air to air an inch away blocking much of the core.
185° only below 40 mph. Any faster and the fan shuts off. Made a big difference doing it that way as opposed to having the fan run any time above 185°.
Rotella is good oil. I believe it all has some zddp in it which is what your after. I've munched up valve tips using non zinc oil so I use the zinc stuff since, no issues, all good, spin HIGH too. Check the label for spec or PN of oil to confirm it has some zddp otherwise its same as any other oil far as I know
I need to get some Rotella and change the oil in this thing, are we picky on filters or just good old GM filter good?
I've always got loads more to say lol. The thermostat thing imo works best as a burp system where the coolant sits in the rad to cool until the thermostat opens and floods in cooler water and closes and the cycle repeats. If your running so hot that the thermostat is open constantly then its time for a larger rad. Thats the simple formula that has worked excellent for me but in the land of the boosted perhaps the heat load under full jam is too high for this? I really cant say from experience so if it works it works. I know id run a stat and a big enough rad ( or two rads, three maybe? ) think Polly TA if you know his build thats similar think to mine. I want to mash the go pedal anytime I like and not have to worry that I have over taxxed my trans. converter, cooling just because I took one hot pass. This coupled with the lack of grip in my current config is exactly why I have yet to go boosted for the street on my own ride although I did start on the sneaky snake almost idential to your set up here and got close to completing it and sold it off to buy a boat, which turned into boatsssss and im still in that space.
As for the oil filter? Im getting frustrated with oil filters every time I get a good one thats under ten bucks they change it up. I do not recommend delco filters anymore at all. Currently Im using Hastings LF613 for genIV and LF487 for genIII on daily drivers and K&N HP-2006 on anything performancy like my Camaro. Its the older style GenIII fit ( slightly smaller thread size than genIV ) but they are quality made and have all the good features. WIx as well is good I have nothing but good to say I can simply get the K&N easier and cheaper for whatever reason.
Well I am running a gutted stat now so it's it's always open then right? I don't have enough drive time yet know if the current setup is adequate or needs work, but I think it might be okay for now. I've kind of found when it comes to cooling systems, the best thing to do is find 2-3 folks who's cars run cool enough and then figure out how to mimic their setups. I'm really ok with the car hitting 210-215 on the hottest days of the year while sitting in traffic.
Not a right now purchase but something that looms, I need to measure my rear shocks and springs and figure out what's the best setup for back there. Before I do that, I'll have 295s on the car and will raise it up if needed.
My next thing I need to grab my solid rod end ladder bars from my buddy who welded on the safety hoops (for the front heim), and figure out what I need to get them onto the car. Then I can get an alignment and hit the track.
Last edited by Pro Stock John; 07-07-2021 at 04:01 PM.
Ya same its best to stay close to proven concepts for sure. Gutted stat should be restrictive enough to work. If it keeps on creeping upwards you'll need to address but you might as well run it and test it all out and see how it goes.No need fixxin what might not be broken just keep a close eye on it and if it does start getting hot go easy on it and you'll be fine.
I cant recall do you have limiter straps on the front?
Limiters are a good thing to have especially shaking down a new build and even more so with drag radials which seem to blow off or dead hook which could result in a big wheelie. The first 50 or so passes are educational, for lack of a better word. Unless you just luck out and it goes straight and easy from the first hit like they do sometimes. You know all this though im sure, cant hurt to refresh the thoughts though.
My concern with the temps is detonation which is problematic enough without boost. Add boost and id want that thing at the exact same temp I tuned it at for every hit. Smokey said you want hot oil and cold coolant. Wise fella he was
My last cold start the car took a while to get to 190 and I can see it on my digital dash. I have changed the fan ON setting to 180F so I think I'll have some decent temps as long as I don't do back to back passes.
Limiters are a good thing to have especially shaking down a new build and even more so with drag radials which seem to blow off or dead hook which could result in a big wheelie. The first 50 or so passes are educational, for lack of a better word. Unless you just luck out and it goes straight and easy from the first hit like they do sometimes. You know all this though im sure, cant hurt to refresh the thoughts though.
My concern with the temps is detonation which is problematic enough without boost. Add boost and id want that thing at the exact same temp I tuned it at for every hit. Smokey said you want hot oil and cold coolant. Wise fella he was
Totally agree with this , you can drive around all day at 210° F but boosting at high temps could easily get you detonation. You guys that can run e 85 can probably get away with higher temps but pump gas is gonna need some timing removed. I worry that staging lanes and the burn out is going to get your car pretty hot before a pass - hope I'm wrong
Well I’ll chime in…. 68 Camaro, summit stock replacement radiator, 160 thermostat, flex a lite 14 inch fan that flows the most cfm I could find, no shroud just tied to radiator with push ties and my car runs in the high 170s low 180s constantly….. on a hot day it may run mid 180s and go in the 210 range in traffic but as soon as I cruise it’s back down to normal. Creeps to 200 on a 149 mph pass but again back down pretty quick. 6.0 twin FI s366s 4l80 trans a2a Intercooler …… trans always runs cool also in the 130 range during normal driving no matter what the outside temp is. Car has been ls swapped for atleast 8 years and has ran like this the whole time. Also does not have inner fenders.
Yeah man I just read and don’t really post much lol… been watching to see when you get this thing down the track! Been chipping away at my junk 9.34 @148 on 17 lb shooting for that 8! You won’t be far behind!
07-04-2021 | 02:11 PM
