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Could I wire it the way I have the Taurus/Contour fan wired up? Looks like this?
That's the fan and no, you can't wire it like the Taurus fan. The C7 fan is brushless and variable speed. It needs three connections. There are two wires for power and ground. Those should be minimum 10 gauge and run to the battery with a 60-65 amp circuit breaker in the position side. Then there is a third little wire that goes to your Dominator ECU.
From there I'll take care of the Holley EFI programming.
Actually that was an older pic and it might not have been, the lower hose was not all finished so I might have had stuff loose.
Thats what I was thinking, I’m not losing my mind yet. Good to see you are getting closer and nearing a time to enjoy it after all of the effort put in.
Last edited by gjohnsonws6; 06-14-2021 at 11:21 PM.
Yeah I would have driven it a bunch more the other day except I want it to operate a wee bit cooler and I wasn't sure my gas situation (have not set up the gauge yet).
Next time I drive I'll try to get vid of me making some boost.
Runs a little warmer than I want, let's say 208 ish and got to 214 idling in one place for 10 minutes.
So my plan is:
1- to lower the ON setting for my Contour fan to 185 from 195
2- raise up my fan as much as I can so long as I can still remove the charge pipe, 1.5 maybe 2 inches up. So my question is can I use just use radiator ties, 4 up top, and 2 or 4 at the bottom? I won't really have the ability to have mounting tabs made anytime soon.
You can use them but I've seen them damage the rad with long term/high mileage use . Sounds like that fan might not be enough , nearly 20° hotter than fan on temp. Turning it on earlier will only help delay the hi temps. Have you got minimal gaps between rad and rad support? To reduce air recirculation. Also air deflector on bottom of rad support will help get air through the rad while moving, won't help while still ( other than reducing recirculation) but if you can reduce temp while driving it will buy you a little time while stopped at lights
I have about a 1.75 gap tween the rad and cooler, basically the thickness of the Rhodes core support.
I have not really driven the car for a prolonged length at speed, like 60 mph for a mile or two, but from the little stuff I did seems like the car will drop a few degrees going 30 mph.
I can't really say the fan is not enough yet, there are a few little things might be contributing to the temps.. fan too low (dual pass radiator), crossover not wrapped.
Andrew Borodin the tuner suggested I also try to add coolant via the steam line too, I can try that and see if it takes any.
Just another thought if you haven't already would be to try water wetter.
I used that in my previous 4th gen Camaro and it helped bring the temps down about 10 degrees and seemed to help the car cool down faster after a pull.
It never overheated but would get warm in stop and go as well and after adding that seemed to help slow the rise in heat and recover after moving.
I'll keep water wetter in mind, the temps the car was running were not really bad, if it was naturally aspirated I'd not even give it too much thought for now.
But since it's turbo, I'd like find out what the best I can get it to cool to the middle of the summer. I have been watching RMRW videos all week lol.
I'll keep water wetter in mind, the temps the car was running were not really bad, if it was naturally aspirated I'd not even give it too much thought for now.
But since it's turbo, I'd like find out what the best I can get it to cool to the middle of the summer. I have been watching RMRW videos all week lol.
I ran water wetter and distilled water in my LT1 T/A here and it actually did help, I would say about 10 degrees. What size is your radiator and what CFM is your fan ?
I think your rad is adequate, air flow is going to be the key now . I've tried the water wetter in 3 vehicles, none LS though and saw no difference- waste of money and time IMO. With a tight engine bay you have to make sure that any air the fan has pulled through the rad can't find it's way back to the front of the rad - the recirculation i mentioned earlier. Of course the fan must be up to job also , don't know anything about the contour fan - sorry
I don't believe in Water Wetter either but for the hell of it I ordered some. So next time I drive the car I'll have the fan ON at 185 and I will have put in 2 bottles of Water Wetter. Let's see what happens. I'm not going to move the fan up, seems risky to have it only mounted with zip ties, and I like that it's bolted at the bottom right now.
I am looking at a Derale shroud/fan combo, looks like it would cover better, but I need to double check it's a 17" fan and not a 16".
That looks like the 3L fan , not the powerful 3.8L Taurus fan . Is it a 2speed design? FWIW With the 3.8 2 speed you can't power up low and high at the same time - creates an internal struggle. Also i think forcefed had a problem with aftermarket version of the Taurus fan - high motor temps and poor performance. I'm planning on using the derale 17" rad high output fan on a couple of upcoming projects, not sure which shroud or unshrouded version yet. Doesn't look like you have a lot of room there but you you should be able to get 1 of them to fit. Doesn't look like the 3.8L Taurus fan would fit though. Keep us posted
John, figure it’s gonna run 110-120° hotter than ambient. Just make sure it stabilizes temps and doesn’t puke all over or actually overheat. City driving at 30-40 mph is gonna build heat. Quit worryin about it and go drive it ALOT! I bet it’s fine.
06-14-2021, 04:04 PM
