Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Time for more tuning again!

Andrew

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Hi Andrew, yeah I just need to burp her a little and then you can log back in!

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Just sling her over your shoulder and a few pats on the back...works every time.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I'll ping you this week!

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Had a great day, ran the car for 30 minutes, burped it, working great!!

I have the fan on at 195F, cooled it down to 188. Getting advised to have the fan come on sooner, thoughts? Gotto 201 idling then came down. It was 50F out.

3 window

iTrader: (1)

John, I have mine turn on at 185 and off at 180. In the summer heat (if it ever gets here) I’ll see 195ish. My stat is blocked open but the biggest difference I made was having the fan turn OFF at speeds above 40mph. At 55-60 mph the temp will literally drop while I’m driving. I’m talking from 190 or so to or below 180. I run a larger radiator and a 16” Spal FWIW. Good luck.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Yeah I can lower the ON and look at where we have OFF. Haven't paid attention to the MPH OFF but will poke into that with Andrew.

I am running a gutted stat, it's basically just a restrictor. I'm using it for the gasket.

ryeguy2006a

iTrader: (27)

Glad to see you fixed it John.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Everybody is glad I fixed it, I couldn't stop talking about it lol.

This weekend I'll replumb my overflow, run the rad line to bottom of the Moroso overflow so there is the potential for the rad to suck fluid back in. After that, I'll put one of my radiator caps on and run the car sealed up for a while to make sure it's all good.

On my "I am gonna drive the car around" list is picking back into the brakes. I had swapped out the old manual m/c and 4 drums to Jegs 1st gen spec manual m/c and strange drag brakes all the way around. Have bled the system twice, brakes are still spongy, I'm prob gonna order this Motive power bleeder 0205 kit from 'zon unless anyone has a better suggestion. I want to re bleed the system, see where I'm at. I might ask around about changing the push rod too but I think I should bleed the system again first. When I drove the car last time, I was kinda standing on the brake pedal if you know what I mean.

After this, I will work with Andrew on the rest of the driveability tuning and make sure my big pump (Weldon 2345A) is working and tuned to come on correctly (with a few lbs of boost).

spray280

iTrader: (5)

I just got a $45 Mityvac, worked perfect.

GMCGreg

Been involved with a more than a few brake bleeds where I was called in after a firm pedal couldn't be achieved, the fix was always removing the master cylinder and repeating the bench bleed with either the tubes recycled into the reservoir or plugging the outlets ( still don't know how that works but it does) Never been impressed with any non power systems , keep the master bore size small is your only chance although this will give additional pedal travel, also must consider the mechanical ratio of the pedal, I'm sure you understand what I mean by that . Hope this helps

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

This is the m/c I got guys I appreciate any advice. https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/6314...Ec7VkmoNKQ6pVE

My fall back is always to take it to a shop lol.

I'll check the mityvac out, link?

GMCGreg

1 1/8" bore master cyl with no assist , your going to need some serious leg power to stop ! Off the top of my head I think most non PB cars use < 1" bore . Same hole for pushrod ? Should be moved closer to the pivot end of the pedal to increase leverage and decrease effort required to build X pressure. Properly bled that pedal should be rock hard, probably won't stop well though

GMCGreg

What size are ycaliper pistons?

3 window

iTrader: (1)

Agreed. Over 1” leads to rock hard pedal, little travel and poor braking. Go to a 15/16 and it’ll make a world of difference (once bled correctly). Use the one at the bottom of the list, says it’s 24mm which is 15/16.
https://www.dragstuff.com/techarticl...sterCylPN.html

GMCGreg

Some quick math says 15/16" bore will give nearly double the fluid pressure of the 1.25" bore with the same pedal pressure. 0.69 in sq. Vs 1.22 in sq.

spray280

iTrader: (5)

My car at 3500lbs & 4 wheel disc brakes had a very stiff pedal with the 1-1/8" generic Dodge master cylinder but stopped just fine. Just switched to the Strange 1.032" bore & the pedal is firm but a good bit softer than
before. Car is a 71 nova, single piston front calipers & explorer rear disc setup. Nothing changed in pedal, master cylinder mounting holes ovaled to fit the factory studs.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

So the concensus is go with this? Braking last time in my car required me standing on the brake to stop and I was only going 30 mph.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

i have Strange drag brakes all 4 corners.

3 window

iTrader: (1)

I’ve got the 24mm on my car and it’s great. Had the 1.125” bore master at the top of the list and it stopped “ok” but had a hard pedal.
Had to oval the holes like spray 280.