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Everybody is glad I fixed it, I couldn't stop talking about it lol.
This weekend I'll replumb my overflow, run the rad line to bottom of the Moroso overflow so there is the potential for the rad to suck fluid back in. After that, I'll put one of my radiator caps on and run the car sealed up for a while to make sure it's all good.
On my "I am gonna drive the car around" list is picking back into the brakes. I had swapped out the old manual m/c and 4 drums to Jegs 1st gen spec manual m/c and strange drag brakes all the way around. Have bled the system twice, brakes are still spongy, I'm prob gonna order this Motive power bleeder 0205 kit from 'zon unless anyone has a better suggestion. I want to re bleed the system, see where I'm at. I might ask around about changing the push rod too but I think I should bleed the system again first. When I drove the car last time, I was kinda standing on the brake pedal if you know what I mean.
After this, I will work with Andrew on the rest of the driveability tuning and make sure my big pump (Weldon 2345A) is working and tuned to come on correctly (with a few lbs of boost).
I don't know if this is applicable but when I went from power brakes to manual on my 70 Camaro, I had to move the rod mounting point on the pedal up one inch.
I also had to stand on the brakes and even then they didn't work great, moving it one inch up on the pedal gave me more leverage and made a huge difference.
Just throwing that out there.
It is, I've had a few folks say they did that, thanks for the comment.
My buddy Kevin and I were just talking about how to approach this, the steps. His suggestion is to do a few stops in a safe spot, see how the brakes grab warmed up, like a few 40 mph to to 10 mph stops. I might just need a little more seat time before I start buying other parts, but those PNs that 3 window linked are available and only $40. If I ended up changing the M/C I'm hopeing my brake lines are the same size lol.
Agreed. Over 1” leads to rock hard pedal, little travel and poor braking. Go to a 15/16 and it’ll make a world of difference (once bled correctly). Use the one at the bottom of the list, says it’s 24mm which is 15/16. https://www.dragstuff.com/techarticl...sterCylPN.html
Jamie, a local guy running a high 8 second 1st gen said he first did 1 1/8, and the car braked poorly., this is what he said: =AZVDYwf_RBS2Ht4-RivGCuK1H-Sk306Sh3jHDfIQS9qegUjkwx2YWX0A9rzSpECBBG-2B54rIAhy7AChdOPFKXew3zXm3QkV9CS3UU8IAv2-YZdBqUVzU9VcsLF-p-ut5bYjg6SBRhXIKYizPMQWrdOA&__tn__=R]-R]Dave Szparaga I have a '67 Camaro manual brakes which I did a conversion to discs in the front and drums in the back. I replaced my m/c 3 years ago with a 1-1/8 bore. Brakes worked very poorly. I found out that bore size for manual brakes was wrong. I am now in the process of installed rear discs and are using wilwood brakes on all four corners. What I have found out is: Willwood recommends 15/16, I have spoken to several other m/c manufacturers that say 1". But they all agree on the 1-1/8 does not work. I think the larger bore is for power brakes. If you are not on this first gen Camaro fb page, would recommend it, a lot of good information and a lot of good guys.
I plumbed my Moroso overflow differently this time, I have the overflow line from the rad (3/8) running to the bottom of the bottle, so it should suck some of the fluid back in. I ran a line off the top to the back of the car.
I'll swap the master cylinder most likely this coming weekend, will update.
That should do it , but there's 2 different fittings in that kit - 1 is 9/ 16 female thread the other is the 1 you need 1/2 " male thread ( in case you didn't notice)
Why not just remove lines , cut off flush at flare , switch nuts to 3/8 thread ( standard 3/16" flare nut ) replace and install, you'd be road testing by now . Just trying to speed things up
04-02-2021, 12:55 PM
