AEM Methanol Kit questions!?
AEM Methanol Kit questions!? Hey guys,
so I just install an AEM 30-3300 boost meth kit and have a couple questions. I ran the two wires to the battery, two wires to the LED light, two wires to the pump, two wires to the tank float then the yellow wire to an ignition switch wire under the hood. When I turn the key to accessory, I can hear the pump running. When I push the test button on the controller the pump gets louder, the fluid comes out of the nozzle.. After that I take my finger off the test button, the status light flashes red. Is this normal? The car is not running and I have both dials are set to 0 for now.
so I just install an AEM 30-3300 boost meth kit and have a couple questions. I ran the two wires to the battery, two wires to the LED light, two wires to the pump, two wires to the tank float then the yellow wire to an ignition switch wire under the hood. When I turn the key to accessory, I can hear the pump running. When I push the test button on the controller the pump gets louder, the fluid comes out of the nozzle.. After that I take my finger off the test button, the status light flashes red. Is this normal? The car is not running and I have both dials are set to 0 for now.
Launching!
Joined: Apr 2017
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From: █▬█ █▄█ █▬█ █▄██▬█ █▄█ █▬█ █▄█
So start PSI is set to 0, so with the car off, the START PSI will be triggered since MAP is 0psi, and the pump will kick on at partial speed. When you press test, it should kick the pump on at full speed, as it would when the FULL PSI is triggered, which explains why the pump gets louder.
You cant have both dials set to 0 because the Full PSI dial starts at 6PSI
As for the error, there are 3 different ones.
I cant see it being the first 2 considering the pump is working. My guess would be low or high battery voltage. But as stated above, you should count the flashes and get back.
You cant have both dials set to 0 because the Full PSI dial starts at 6PSI
As for the error, there are 3 different ones.
Pump Driver Shorted
Trigger Condition: Current exceeding 15A on the driver output. The status LED will flash a count of three and repeat. The pump driver will turn off to protect itself and automatically retry every second. If the short is removed the controller will function normally. Fluid flow is lost in this condition.
Pump Driver Open
Trigger Condition: Open circuit between pump drive and battery voltage. The status LED will flash a count of two and repeat. The pump driver will continue to drive the pump. If the open is repaired the controller will function normally. Fluid flow may be lost in this condition.
Battery Voltage Out Of Range
Trigger Condition: Battery voltage is below 8.5V or above 16V. The status LED will flash a count of four and repeat. The pump driver will turn off to protect itself and automatically restart when the voltage returns to the normal range. Fluid flow is lost in this condition.
Trigger Condition: Current exceeding 15A on the driver output. The status LED will flash a count of three and repeat. The pump driver will turn off to protect itself and automatically retry every second. If the short is removed the controller will function normally. Fluid flow is lost in this condition.
Pump Driver Open
Trigger Condition: Open circuit between pump drive and battery voltage. The status LED will flash a count of two and repeat. The pump driver will continue to drive the pump. If the open is repaired the controller will function normally. Fluid flow may be lost in this condition.
Battery Voltage Out Of Range
Trigger Condition: Battery voltage is below 8.5V or above 16V. The status LED will flash a count of four and repeat. The pump driver will turn off to protect itself and automatically restart when the voltage returns to the normal range. Fluid flow is lost in this condition.
So start PSI is set to 0, so with the car off, the START PSI will be triggered since MAP is 0psi, and the pump will kick on at partial speed. When you press test, it should kick the pump on at full speed, as it would when the FULL PSI is triggered, which explains why the pump gets louder.
You cant have both dials set to 0 because the Full PSI dial starts at 6PSI
As for the error, there are 3 different ones.
I cant see it being the first 2 considering the pump is working. My guess would be low or high battery voltage. But as stated above, you should count the flashes and get back.
You cant have both dials set to 0 because the Full PSI dial starts at 6PSI
As for the error, there are 3 different ones.
I cant see it being the first 2 considering the pump is working. My guess would be low or high battery voltage. But as stated above, you should count the flashes and get back.
ok thanks! This is super helpful. I’ve had a battery tender on the car for a while now. I am wondering if maybe it’s over 16V. Should I set the start **** higher for the test? Just curious if it has to do with something on the MAP. I don’t have the car tuned yet so I don’t want to start spraying meth into the intake without it tuned.
when pressing the TEST button what should I see? A 3 second “rev up” to fuel PSI then a 3 second burst of full PSI, but then what? Because I feel it’s doing that now but then stops are starts flashing?
Launching!
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 276
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From: █▬█ █▄█ █▬█ █▄██▬█ █▄█ █▬█ █▄█
ok thanks! This is super helpful. I’ve had a battery tender on the car for a while now. I am wondering if maybe it’s over 16V. Should I set the start **** higher for the test? Just curious if it has to do with something on the MAP. I don’t have the car tuned yet so I don’t want to start spraying meth into the intake without it tuned.
when pressing the TEST button what should I see? A 3 second “rev up” to fuel PSI then a 3 second burst of full PSI, but then what? Because I feel it’s doing that now but then stops are starts flashing?
Test should just kick the pump on. I'm not sure about the flashes. You should count the number of blinks and report back. Here a link to the manual. http://www.aemelectronics.com/files/instructions/30-3323.pdf
For the test it shouldn't matter where you set any of the *****. The unit has an onboard MAP sensor, so any sensors on your car have nothing to do with it. Its completely standalone. That's why it has its own nipple for vacuum/boost.
Test should just kick the pump on. I'm not sure about the flashes. You should count the number of blinks and report back. Here a link to the manual. http://www.aemelectronics.com/files/...ns/30-3323.pdf
Test should just kick the pump on. I'm not sure about the flashes. You should count the number of blinks and report back. Here a link to the manual. http://www.aemelectronics.com/files/...ns/30-3323.pdf
ok so I tried it again. I turned on the ignition to accessory. The red light automatically started flashing. From there I hit the test button, everything seemed good. Fluid came out etc. once I released the test button it started flashing conintously for 10 blinks until I shut the ignition off. Any ideas?
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Verdad Gallardo Fair enough. I don’t think it’s 10 blinks exactly. It seems it just continuously blinks when the key is on ignition and the test button isn’t activated. Which I find weird.
Last edited by Greg88; May 24, 2018 at 07:08 PM.
So I called AEM. They said since I’m running straight meth, the float doesn’t pick up the level, hence the single flashing light. I guesss this is common when guys run straight meth. I just have to connect the two wires and run it without a level sensor!
Launching!
Joined: Apr 2017
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From: █▬█ █▄█ █▬█ █▄██▬█ █▄█ █▬█ █▄█
Cool. What are the advantages of pure meth vs 50/50
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2017
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Teching In
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 29
Likes: 1
I wasnt planning on. Running the solenoid or the boost fail safe. I do need to find an external maf source that supports 0-5v. I have no idea what that means. Anyone enlighten me.
thanks for not blasting me if you think this is a stupid question.
Ryan
You might have different instructions then me. This is what I used. I did not hook up the green wire (boost safe) or the brown/white solenoid wire. I hooked up the 12v arm switches wire to a powered by ignition source to turn on and off with the keyed ignition.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2003
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Does this kit come with a one-way pressure valve that is installed aft of the pump? If not I would highly recommend that you get one and install it and then quit testing or using the system until you completely understand how your system works. Am not suggesting you don't but simply don't want you to hydro lock your engine.
I absent-mindedly left the key on for three hours when installing new seats in the car. During this time the methanol system was apparently was arming itself periodically unknown to me. So when I started the car it hydro locked.
Why the check valve? My system didn't come with one and product literature never mentioned that one was necessary. As a result with the key on and engine not running there was enough methanol mix in the line to hydrolock the engine - result - knocked a rod thru the side of the block. A new TSP 370 is costing me about $12K because the installer didn't completely understand how the system armed itself, nor did I and what can happen when the key is turned on or when the arming device is turned on and the engine is not running.
A $30 dollar pressure one way valve stops the mix in the line from getting into the charge pipe, throttle body, or manifold. The one-way pressure valve opens at about 10 lbs of pressure. Since line pressure exceeds that when under boost the valve opens but only if the engine is running.
Is this my fault - ignorant or dumb to have something installed and not know completely how it works? One can argue yes. My bad and it cost me dearly.
Is it unusual to have the key on and the engine not running?
Not really! It happens all of the time when tuning on the dyno as you download and or upload files to the PCM while tuning or data logging. In fact some have actually run the battery down while tuning (how many times does EFI live mention not to run your battery down while tuning).
So be aware.
I absent-mindedly left the key on for three hours when installing new seats in the car. During this time the methanol system was apparently was arming itself periodically unknown to me. So when I started the car it hydro locked.
Why the check valve? My system didn't come with one and product literature never mentioned that one was necessary. As a result with the key on and engine not running there was enough methanol mix in the line to hydrolock the engine - result - knocked a rod thru the side of the block. A new TSP 370 is costing me about $12K because the installer didn't completely understand how the system armed itself, nor did I and what can happen when the key is turned on or when the arming device is turned on and the engine is not running.
A $30 dollar pressure one way valve stops the mix in the line from getting into the charge pipe, throttle body, or manifold. The one-way pressure valve opens at about 10 lbs of pressure. Since line pressure exceeds that when under boost the valve opens but only if the engine is running.
Is this my fault - ignorant or dumb to have something installed and not know completely how it works? One can argue yes. My bad and it cost me dearly.
Is it unusual to have the key on and the engine not running?
Not really! It happens all of the time when tuning on the dyno as you download and or upload files to the PCM while tuning or data logging. In fact some have actually run the battery down while tuning (how many times does EFI live mention not to run your battery down while tuning).
So be aware.
