Gav

Not sure where im going with upper water pump nipple yet......didnt want to go straight down and around incase air locks but dont have much choice...
thanks forcefed, will source 2 44mm tials.
regards
gav

Gav

Hi,
excuse welding. 4" to 2x 3" downpipe done...will send some picies in of that soon...



rh waste gate closer to top than i wanted and note had to put piece in on rh elbow as when cooled sprang apart, bloody stainless...
now when cold lines up the twoo v band banks good....
what u think how close i am to footwell top first photo....gonna wrap but need heatshield as well!
gav

Gav

Hi,
someone on fb selling a 3 bar map, £40. Would this fit a ls2 intake? Also dont really need 3 bar as would never go over 15 psi but its cheap and local.
any issues you think?

Regards
gav

Gav

Anyone there?

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Just run a hose from the port on the intake to the sensor. It doesn't have to physically mount to the intake.

Gav

Thanks ddn, have bought it anyway.
by the way all, do you think i shoukd make a turbo brace? Could maybe come off head infront of tensioner pulley and tie into top two pins on compressor housing?
regards
gav

Gav

Bloody dipstick tube sheared whilst trying to move ìt gently....
be ok if i tap for 1/4 bsp and plug it?
gav

Gav

Hi,
intercooler piping mocked up.
question is wheres best for iat?
i used to have the black iat sensor just before the throttle body, it would get heat soaked when N/A though.
i could move it to just post intercooler lower down. Would that be better or best nearer tb??
regards
gav

jordoza

I first had mine right before the throttlebody and same thing it was always heat soaked so I moved it to the outlet of my air to air and it became much more stable and rationale a reading for me.

Gav

Thanks for reply
thought i had been talking to myself the last few times lol...
you use the black plastic iat or the threaded one?
regards
gav

jordoza

I used the brass threaded one with the open element.

jordoza

It can get lonely doing a build thread if your not setting the world on it ear. Seems like your cooking right along great to me.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Mine was always heatsoaked as well. I don't understand why the piping is any cooler next to the IC than it is at the TB? Just radiant engine bay heat?



I drilled the factory manifolds and retain the stock plastic "push in" type on my truck intakes.This seemed to work the best for me. Which intake are you running?

Gav

Hi,
LS2...
regards
gav

Gav

Hello,
trying to sort turbo drain.
i have decided on an12 fittings, teflon ss hose.
With an oil drain flange on the turbo, then a 45degree an fitting, then 1ft of hose to another an12 45 fitting then into pan with an an 12 welded bung.
right, with the turbo clocked at 0 degrees prior to putting oil drain fittings on, the 45 an12 fitting fouls the power steering rack.
i could clock the turbo center section to 20 to 25 degrees, then the an45 fittings clear....
any ideas if thus would ve ok?
or.....i could try clocking the turbo to 0 degrees, and put a an12 90 degree fitting on, the the hose could bend down to 45 degrees.
which would be best if any?
regards
gav

Gav

Hello, is the above gonnabe ok ish?
regards
gav

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Pics would help. But in general using AN fittings for drains is a poor idea IMO. They are simply to large and bulky. Fitment is a pain in the butt! Use thin wall steel tube fittings with hose, AN alum 3/4 hard lines, or copper plumbing lines/fittings. They will flow more than the AN style and they are more forgiving to angles and what not. Will free up a TON of space too. Just my take on it...

Can read up on it a little here.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...oil-drain.html

Drill some 3/4" NPT tapped holes with a 3/4 drain and run tubing/hose.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...SABEgKG5PD_BwE

Gav

Hi, was serious,y looking at using copper like you do, but fell short trykng to find heat related hose. All coulf find was up to 100 deg c maximum and didnt know what return temp from turbo could hit....probably playing it too safe and causing myself hassle....
regards
gav

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

I pretty much soldered the connections all the way to the pan and turbo. Then the copper pieces slip fit. I then used silicone 3/4 ID heater hose and hose clamps that I safety wired.Many say silicone hose doesn't hold up to oils. But I've had the hose I use sitting in a jar of oil for 5 years now and it hasn't deformed or done anything weird.

Also FWIW I have standard push lock hose on my turbo supply and drains on my twin turbo setup. I've had no issues. Many are rated for hot oils such as transmission lines. I think you'll be fine with any of those. You really want 3/4 ID or greater IMO if you don't have a perfect gravity drain. Mine was much less than perfect with 3/4 brass pipe and fittings and I never had an issues. Unrestricted -4 feed as well. I'm not a fan of oil restrictors.

Another alternative is 3/4 flexible gas line.

Gav

hello,
Thanks for info forcefed, i will try the fkttings i got first, then if get smoking might have to re look at it.
The wastegate signal, can i use the top elbow off my holley 90mm tb, it goes into pre throttle plate and i wont use it now and was going to blank it off. But if i run a 8mm hose(silicone vac rated)then a tee, then two 6mm silicone lines to the wastegates.
would this be ok?
regards gav