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Old Jun 25, 2020 | 02:33 PM
  #41  
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Not sure where im going with upper water pump nipple yet......didnt want to go straight down and around incase air locks but dont have much choice...
thanks forcefed, will source 2 44mm tials.
regards
gav
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Old Aug 5, 2020 | 02:51 PM
  #42  
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Hi,
excuse welding. 4" to 2x 3" downpipe done...will send some picies in of that soon...



rh waste gate closer to top than i wanted and note had to put piece in on rh elbow as when cooled sprang apart, bloody stainless...
now when cold lines up the twoo v band banks good....
what u think how close i am to footwell top first photo....gonna wrap but need heatshield as well!
gav
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Old Sep 5, 2020 | 06:09 AM
  #43  
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Hi,
someone on fb selling a 3 bar map, £40. Would this fit a ls2 intake? Also dont really need 3 bar as would never go over 15 psi but its cheap and local.
any issues you think?

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gav

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Old Sep 5, 2020 | 01:10 PM
  #44  
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Anyone there?
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Old Sep 5, 2020 | 01:16 PM
  #45  
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Just run a hose from the port on the intake to the sensor. It doesn't have to physically mount to the intake.
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Old Sep 8, 2020 | 01:33 PM
  #46  
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Thanks ddn, have bought it anyway.
by the way all, do you think i shoukd make a turbo brace? Could maybe come off head infront of tensioner pulley and tie into top two pins on compressor housing?
regards
gav
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Old Sep 8, 2020 | 04:15 PM
  #47  
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Bloody dipstick tube sheared whilst trying to move ìt gently....
be ok if i tap for 1/4 bsp and plug it?
gav
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Old Sep 19, 2020 | 10:07 AM
  #48  
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Hi,
intercooler piping mocked up.
question is wheres best for iat?
i used to have the black iat sensor just before the throttle body, it would get heat soaked when N/A though.
i could move it to just post intercooler lower down. Would that be better or best nearer tb??
regards
gav


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Old Sep 19, 2020 | 01:36 PM
  #49  
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I first had mine right before the throttlebody and same thing it was always heat soaked so I moved it to the outlet of my air to air and it became much more stable and rationale a reading for me.
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Old Sep 19, 2020 | 01:54 PM
  #50  
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Thanks for reply
thought i had been talking to myself the last few times lol...
you use the black plastic iat or the threaded one?
regards
gav
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Old Sep 19, 2020 | 04:10 PM
  #51  
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I used the brass threaded one with the open element.
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Old Sep 19, 2020 | 04:14 PM
  #52  
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It can get lonely doing a build thread if your not setting the world on it ear. Seems like your cooking right along great to me.
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 08:03 AM
  #53  
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Mine was always heatsoaked as well. I don't understand why the piping is any cooler next to the IC than it is at the TB? Just radiant engine bay heat?



I drilled the factory manifolds and retain the stock plastic "push in" type on my truck intakes.This seemed to work the best for me. Which intake are you running?







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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 10:31 AM
  #54  
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Hi,
LS2...
regards
gav
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Old Oct 3, 2020 | 10:59 AM
  #55  
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Hello,
trying to sort turbo drain.
i have decided on an12 fittings, teflon ss hose.
With an oil drain flange on the turbo, then a 45degree an fitting, then 1ft of hose to another an12 45 fitting then into pan with an an 12 welded bung.
right, with the turbo clocked at 0 degrees prior to putting oil drain fittings on, the 45 an12 fitting fouls the power steering rack.
i could clock the turbo center section to 20 to 25 degrees, then the an45 fittings clear....
any ideas if thus would ve ok?
or.....i could try clocking the turbo to 0 degrees, and put a an12 90 degree fitting on, the the hose could bend down to 45 degrees.
which would be best if any?
regards
gav
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Old Oct 4, 2020 | 12:04 PM
  #56  
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Hello, is the above gonnabe ok ish?
regards
gav
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Old Oct 5, 2020 | 07:59 AM
  #57  
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Pics would help. But in general using AN fittings for drains is a poor idea IMO. They are simply to large and bulky. Fitment is a pain in the butt! Use thin wall steel tube fittings with hose, AN alum 3/4 hard lines, or copper plumbing lines/fittings. They will flow more than the AN style and they are more forgiving to angles and what not. Will free up a TON of space too. Just my take on it...

Can read up on it a little here.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...oil-drain.html

Drill some 3/4" NPT tapped holes with a 3/4 drain and run tubing/hose.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...SABEgKG5PD_BwE




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Old Oct 5, 2020 | 01:17 PM
  #58  
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Hi, was serious,y looking at using copper like you do, but fell short trykng to find heat related hose. All coulf find was up to 100 deg c maximum and didnt know what return temp from turbo could hit....probably playing it too safe and causing myself hassle....
regards
gav
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Old Oct 5, 2020 | 01:47 PM
  #59  
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I pretty much soldered the connections all the way to the pan and turbo. Then the copper pieces slip fit. I then used silicone 3/4 ID heater hose and hose clamps that I safety wired.Many say silicone hose doesn't hold up to oils. But I've had the hose I use sitting in a jar of oil for 5 years now and it hasn't deformed or done anything weird.

Also FWIW I have standard push lock hose on my turbo supply and drains on my twin turbo setup. I've had no issues. Many are rated for hot oils such as transmission lines. I think you'll be fine with any of those. You really want 3/4 ID or greater IMO if you don't have a perfect gravity drain. Mine was much less than perfect with 3/4 brass pipe and fittings and I never had an issues. Unrestricted -4 feed as well. I'm not a fan of oil restrictors.

Another alternative is 3/4 flexible gas line.

Amazon Amazon
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Old Oct 9, 2020 | 01:01 PM
  #60  
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hello,
Thanks for info forcefed, i will try the fkttings i got first, then if get smoking might have to re look at it.
The wastegate signal, can i use the top elbow off my holley 90mm tb, it goes into pre throttle plate and i wont use it now and was going to blank it off. But if i run a 8mm hose(silicone vac rated)then a tee, then two 6mm silicone lines to the wastegates.
would this be ok?
regards gav
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