Mavn

iTrader: (3)

My 4,8 with a cam, stock 243 heads, and an ls1 intake ,made 540 rwhp on 10# with a VS 7875,
580 on 12#. and 660 on 16# but it was murdering the converter lol made 660 on 16-17-18-19-20# lol

Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

Game ova

I was wrong, went and pulled the sheet. Made 505/805 on 8psi. Accidentally let out early, but by then it had already peaked.

Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

JoeNova

Mirror image graph that and switch your HP/TQ numbers. That's some peaky torque. Good old TU1 and 7875 on a 6.0.

My gen 3 4.8 did 600 on 11 PSI through a TH400 with a stock converter. Comparing dyno results is pretty hard to do though.

Game ova

Agreed, peaks weird, but still averages 810ft/lb from 2800-5800. I geared it accordingly, and it's fun to drive, all while being easy on the motor. I've seen cars that have prettier dyno graphs, with better "power/area under the curve", but doesn't translate come track time.

SLOW SEDAN

iTrader: (13)

Ya those are 5.3 numbers not cammed 6.0.

Those aren't good examples lol. I got booted NA for running 11.3 in a 6.0L NA 4k lb IRS sedan on 275-17's so an 11.4 in a boosted lighter solid axle car to me isn't very impressive.

As far as 10.3 goes, I ran that (with cage) on 13lbs still on a 17" 275 tire so again not very impressive from a lighter car on 19lbs. Only got faster from there... I could let off at the 1/8th and coast to a 10.0 lol

Game ova

Two things, one, wasn't at all touted as impressive, two, say what you want but I guarantee you that you were coming out swinging.... which I've yet to do. I'm sure you will come back with something like "this was with 3 dead holes, and on an uphill track". As you can see, the car isn't a priority, as i've been on this 7.5 for 3 years now, and haven't cared to get more aggressive with the tune. I would wager that simply being able to employ the transbrake and leave like a boosted car should, things would probably be different. But I just don't care enough to do it (upgrade hardware).

Game ova

Another thing, not saying you don't have a good running car, but where are your vids though? I'm sick of seeing this "I can let out at the '330 and still run 7.30 @196" stuff. "Last week, I ran it with no turbo and still went 8.45 @165". Quit it with this mysterious cryptic stuff of what the car runs.

Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

So does it sound unreasonable for me to think i'm around 580-600 rear on 10lbs? mods below in my sig. 60lbs injectors im at 75% duty cycle at 11.5 AFR. Thats how i was guesstimating. just wondering.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

https://www.injectorrx.com/fuel-inje...ze-calculator/
Theres several calculators online to check against 1 another.

Game ova

Hard to say man. Dynos read different, just many different variables in the mix. Best thing I can tell you is, don't get hung up on dyno numbers. Take it to the track and run it, that's the best way to see imo. So long as you can leave hard, and not baby it, that will give you the best picture of the power it is making.

BCNUL8R

iTrader: (2)

I agree with this...who cares what it dyno's? Dyno's are a great tool for tuning nothing more. The track will tell you the true story. For estimated power you just need race weight and trap speed. For tuning a street car at the track just roll it out easy maybe a 1.8x 60' or something to make sure you don't spin and see what it traps. If you add timing and it picks up mph without kr then keep adding timing. If timing doesn't add mph then back it off and of course if it knocks back it off. Be careful with the calculators based upon injector size and duty cycle if you have a restriction in the fuel system, dead head system, or are out of pump they are misleading. My current setup says 559 rwhp based upon race weight and trap speed, but injector duty cycle calculator says 925 horse. I was out of pump with the 4301 at 92% dc now I have a 4303 and another pound of boost. I haven't tested the current setup because I'm not hardcore enough to tune it in the snow...tuning is better with a load and no tire spin though anyway LOL.

SLOW SEDAN

iTrader: (13)

Difference is all I hear are excuses. You started with my car is slow because its manual. Now its auto and its slow because its got a stock diff. Just a never ending excuse as to why it doesn't run as well as you claim it does. Well guess what I think my car is slow too but I don't make excuses... my car went 9's on a POS stock IRS diff and axles with a stock 5.3 how bout dat lol

You asked for 6.0 numbers and I gave you some. If you wanted 5.3 numbers I would show you a lot faster numbers lol

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Everyone talks about dyno's and how they vary etc....The track has just as many or MORE variables. Dyno's can vary by say 50whp.....you go to the track and have a crap 60' and your trap can say you're making 100-150whp less the car is actually making. And for those that say 60' doesn't impact trap, I've seen first hand decreasing 60' INCREASING trap speed.

SoFla01SSLookinstok

I also agree with spider. Taking a car to the track is a good indication of what the car can do from a dig. But. As my car bogs down to 23xx rpm it sure does skew the avg. power the car can put down. Also as said. Running this here & that there is really not a good comparison of cars. It's really just like comparing dyno numbers. As Game Ova stated his car "can" be faster. It's just not on kill mode. As my car don't do good at track which a lot of people use to put down my car. Hey, we're all friends.. right? Lol.

JoeNova

I don't see how people can possibly say that 60' doesn't effect trap speed. You are at a faster MPH when you start that last 1260 feet.
If you started an additional 60' behind the starting line and passed the tree going 30 mph, you're going to cross the quarter mile at a higher speed than launching at the tree.

Game ova

It definitely does, which is why boosted cars tend to trap higher when leaving in positive pressure vs vacuum. Which is why my car looks slow at the track, -5 inches vac, vs 5psi boost makes a difference.

BCNUL8R

iTrader: (2)

Where did anyone say 60' doesn't effect trap speed. The key is to launch the car the same every time not really being aggressive for ET just a good consistent launch then watch trap speed. If something out of the normal like a major bog or major spin happens then disregard the result. This is while tuning for power of course. People have done it this way for years even before EFI.