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Summit Racing Intercoolers

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Old Feb 3, 2020 | 01:01 PM
  #21  
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yes my last nova had a large garrett core intercooler and while sitting in line the heat from radiator whould warm up the intercooler to a good 110 * my iat was lower crossing the finish line than when I launched. on my logs. with my mishimoto im hoping to be in the 20* raise thru a run. . but I will see in the spring .
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Old Feb 3, 2020 | 01:16 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by yenkomike
yes my last nova had a large garrett core intercooler and while sitting in line the heat from radiator whould warm up the intercooler to a good 110 * my iat was lower crossing the finish line than when I launched. on my logs. with my mishimoto im hoping to be in the 20* raise thru a run. . but I will see in the spring .
Did you install the intercooler behind the radiator or something ?

How could the radiator heat up the IC ? Or are you guessing IC core temps, from reading an air temp sensor elsewhere, which has maybe been drawing in hot air from somewhere ?
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Old Feb 3, 2020 | 01:33 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
For those chiming about temps, ideally they'd need to hold a load for maybe 15-20s to get an accurate temperature reading once stabilised, as most typical air temp sensors are pretty slow, even though many will claim "fast acting".
So those low readings in a lot of cases will simply be false as they simply havent caught up yet with the actual temperature.
Kinda like an intercooler people get caught up with sensors, yet no matter what the sensor reads if you don't pull timing for that sensor and go just as fast when it reads 100* vs 200* or even 300* does it even matter? Some people max the IAT sensor before the 1/8th and don't care and a lot are way faster then most people here. But it's funny to me that a sensor can read from 70 to 300 in 3-4 seconds yet you claim that it needs 15-20 seconds to get a good reading. Apparently its reading something pretty quick, and while I agree the air is probably warmer then the sensor is reading, the actual charge into the cylinder is cooler then the sensor as fuel was added post sensor. So really its all a guessing game anyways, you give the engine what it wants and move on.
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Old Feb 3, 2020 | 01:34 PM
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From: oxford mi
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no the sensor was in the pipe in front of the throttle body. it whould get heat from the fan as it was behind the radiator. I just thought it was funny that it whould cool as I went down the track . im sure the ic was gaining heat but I thought it was a good sign my intercooler was still providing air cooler than the temp sensor when reading 110 to 115*. . the intercooler was one I made fit my car and had 1/2 lb pressure drop from turbo outlet to throttle body 13.5 by 25.5 core 3.25 thick.

should have added a temp sensor to the outlet on ic whould like to know how well it really did.
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Old Feb 3, 2020 | 01:38 PM
  #25  
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hope my current mishimoto keeps working well up to about 900 wheel or so . keeping my fingers crossed. so far it looks good. rated to 1250 cfm.
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Old Feb 3, 2020 | 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by SLOW SEDAN
Kinda like an intercooler people get caught up with sensors, yet no matter what the sensor reads if you don't pull timing for that sensor and go just as fast when it reads 100* vs 200* or even 300* does it even matter? Some people max the IAT sensor before the 1/8th and don't care and a lot are way faster then most people here. But it's funny to me that a sensor can read from 70 to 300 in 3-4 seconds yet you claim that it needs 15-20 seconds to get a good reading. Apparently its reading something pretty quick, and while I agree the air is probably warmer then the sensor is reading, the actual charge into the cylinder is cooler then the sensor as fuel was added post sensor. So really its all a guessing game anyways, you give the engine what it wants and move on.
Given most basic thermistor sensors people use do not accurately read at 300deg....that just highlights the charge temps are probably far far in excess of that number. And even higher again when you consider any sensor lag. Maybe that's hard for you to understand ?

But yes, if you're happy with the temps, nothing is blowing up and it performs as you want, then there is no issue. Numbers do not matter.

But could it make more power with cooler air ? Undoubtedly.
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Old Feb 3, 2020 | 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
Given most basic thermistor sensors people use do not accurately read at 300deg....that just highlights the charge temps are probably far far in excess of that number. And even higher again when you consider any sensor lag. Maybe that's hard for you to understand ?

But yes, if you're happy with the temps, nothing is blowing up and it performs as you want, then there is no issue. Numbers do not matter.

But could it make more power with cooler air ? Undoubtedly.
Not hard to understand at all, basic really. But true but if you are at the point the heads can hold anyways... does it matter if you have even more power on tap? Kinda like class racing, is it worth the weight penalty to run an intercooler? To some it is to some its not. I just think people with basic setups are way too hung up on IAT's (OMG IAT's have to be below ambient to make any power), kinda like guys with stock LS's were hung up with boost levels 10 years ago (OMG more then 10 psi blows them up).
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Old Feb 3, 2020 | 02:39 PM
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It would have been really nice if they bothered the keep the cold side piping unchanged in that vid and ONLY changed the FMIC.
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Old Feb 3, 2020 | 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by yenkomike
hope my current mishimoto keeps working well up to about 900 wheel or so . keeping my fingers crossed. so far it looks good. rated to 1250 cfm.
CFM ratings on intercoolers are so insanely misleading. CFM has no correlation with pressure.
The rule of thumb has always been something like 150 CFM = 100 Horsepower.
So 1250 CFM = 833 horsepower.

Then you factor in pressure.
1250 CFM at 100 kpa = 833 horsepower worth of air mass.
1250 CFM at 300 kpa = 2499 horsepower worth of air mass.
1250 CFM at 500 kpa = 4165 horsepower worth of air mass.

Basically, run that intercooler at 5 bar and its good for 4000 horsepower according to the manufacturer's rating.
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Old Feb 3, 2020 | 02:52 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by SLOW SEDAN
Not hard to understand at all, basic really. But true but if you are at the point the heads can hold anyways... does it matter if you have even more power on tap? Kinda like class racing, is it worth the weight penalty to run an intercooler? To some it is to some its not. I just think people with basic setups are way too hung up on IAT's (OMG IAT's have to be below ambient to make any power), kinda like guys with stock LS's were hung up with boost levels 10 years ago (OMG more then 10 psi blows them up).
Of course, not everyone is fixated with only short drag racing. I wouldnt imagine those cars with no IC, through the roof IAT's etc would last too well at say 1/2 mile, or mile ? or a road course ?

Originally Posted by yenkomike
no the sensor was in the pipe in front of the throttle body. it whould get heat from the fan as it was behind the radiator. I just thought it was funny that it whould cool as I went down the track . im sure the ic was gaining heat but I thought it was a good sign my intercooler was still providing air cooler than the temp sensor when reading 110 to 115*. . the intercooler was one I made fit my car and had 1/2 lb pressure drop from turbo outlet to throttle body 13.5 by 25.5 core 3.25 thick.

should have added a temp sensor to the outlet on ic whould like to know how well it really did.
All you're seeing really is the engine drawing hot air in at idle from a stationary vehicle, and then once moving, it gets access to cooler air. So you would expect it to drop, plus the IC will...or should be assistant too. There's little reason for the IC to gain a lot of heat. Usually they're shaded to some degree from direct sunlight, they should have cool airflow going through them from the radiator fans.
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Old Feb 3, 2020 | 02:55 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
It would have been really nice if they bothered the keep the cold side piping unchanged in that vid and ONLY changed the FMIC.
I really doubt it'd make any difference. It'd be nice to see different sizes tried on each though.

It'd also be interesting to see what sort of difference larger plumbing etc would make off boost.

A turbo setup can feel quite lethargic off boost compared to n/a or supercharged...and no doubt some of that is having to suck air through all that plumbing, IC itself, and then the turbos, which although spinning, wouldnt be moving a load of air.

Even just stick all that plumbing onto a n/a engine to test. The more it can breathe down there, the faster it should spool too
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Old Feb 3, 2020 | 03:03 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by AwesomeAuto
CFM ratings on intercoolers are so insanely misleading. CFM has no correlation with pressure.
The rule of thumb has always been something like 150 CFM = 100 Horsepower.
So 1250 CFM = 833 horsepower.

Then you factor in pressure.
1250 CFM at 100 kpa = 833 horsepower worth of air mass.
1250 CFM at 300 kpa = 2499 horsepower worth of air mass.
1250 CFM at 500 kpa = 4165 horsepower worth of air mass.

Basically, run that intercooler at 5 bar and its good for 4000 horsepower according to the manufacturer's rating.

A straight pipe might flow 1250cfm too....but it aint gona cool for ****.

No sense having an intercooler that may flow very well, but doesnt cool anything. And Likewise no sense having a core that may have superb ability to cool...but doesnt flow for ****.

A concept gametech doesnt seem to grasp saying all cores are the same.
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Old Feb 3, 2020 | 03:08 PM
  #33  
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To save hassle reposting pics etc....some good images here. The differences between so many cores is night and day.

https://www.fusionsportforums.com/forum/377-engine-technical-discussion/13465-garrett-vs-vibrant-intercooler-core.html

https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turbo-and-turbo-s-forum/1044986-intercooler-upgrade-modification-ebay-chinese-vs-garrett.html


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Old Feb 3, 2020 | 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
I really doubt it'd make any difference. It'd be nice to see different sizes tried on each though.

It'd also be interesting to see what sort of difference larger plumbing etc would make off boost.

A turbo setup can feel quite lethargic off boost compared to n/a or supercharged...and no doubt some of that is having to suck air through all that plumbing, IC itself, and then the turbos, which although spinning, wouldnt be moving a load of air.

Even just stick all that plumbing onto a n/a engine to test. The more it can breathe down there, the faster it should spool too
They literally went through a bunch of work, aka swapping the entire cold side piping, to NOT have a true A/B test. It just would have been nice to keep everything else identical. especially with how easy it would have been to do.
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Old Feb 3, 2020 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
A straight pipe might flow 1250cfm too....but it aint gona cool for ****.

No sense having an intercooler that may flow very well, but doesnt cool anything. And Likewise no sense having a core that may have superb ability to cool...but doesnt flow for ****.

A concept gametech doesnt seem to grasp saying all cores are the same.
I wasnt talking about cooling anything, just CFM ratings. Glad to see you're having another bitter day.
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Old Feb 3, 2020 | 06:46 PM
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hey it beats arguing about what oil is best or what so-n-so's welds look like
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Old Feb 3, 2020 | 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by truckdoug
hey it beats arguing about what oil is best or what so-n-so's welds look like
Rotella....take that!!!!
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Old Feb 4, 2020 | 02:57 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
A straight pipe might flow 1250cfm too....but it aint gona cool for ****.

No sense having an intercooler that may flow very well, but doesnt cool anything. And Likewise no sense having a core that may have superb ability to cool...but doesnt flow for ****.

A concept gametech doesnt seem to grasp saying all cores are the same.
I fully understand the difference between a "bad" knockoff design and a fully tested Garret core. What I don't understand is why someone would dismiss a budget IC as useless because it is not the best possible thing they could buy. Especially when most are on a budget, and the same dollars may give the choice between an undersized "optimal" core, or an oversized budget unit. People who need the best of everything are probably having this argument on yellowbullet.
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Old Feb 4, 2020 | 08:27 AM
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You also have to fit the damn thing in the car, then get airflow to it.
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Old Feb 4, 2020 | 08:35 AM
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If you're south of 800whp I would be less concerned around the FMIC. All this talk of giving up power is the same argument for not spending a ton of money on special heads and FAST intakes. Youre down 50whp???.....turn it up 2 psi.
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