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*Big update*
Issue has been solved however not confirmed yet but it all makes sense now. I talked to john bewley on the phone and long story short I'd have to rev to 9800rpm to make any kinda of power with this cam. It's just way too damn big and the eq1 intake makes it even worse. This cam belongs in a 427+ making big power. This is why it's not making any torque or power, its bleeding everything off and this is why cranking compression is so low. I had a feeling lol...
So I have a new cam on the way and I cant freaking wait!!!
John knows his stuff and told me like it was.
I think it’d be cooler to rev it to 9800, but it’s not mine. Good luck
*Big update*
Issue has been solved however not confirmed yet but it all makes sense now. I talked to john bewley on the phone and long story short I'd have to rev to 9800rpm to make any kinda of power with this cam. It's just way too damn big and the eq1 intake makes it even worse. This cam belongs in a 427+ making big power. This is why it's not making any torque or power, its bleeding everything off and this is why cranking compression is so low. I had a feeling lol...
So I have a new cam on the way and I cant freaking wait!!!
John knows his stuff and told me like it was.
I would straight up ask Summit themselves about this man. Im pretty sure that a Summit stage 4 will break up well before it lets the engine hit 9800rpm. Your camshaft is rated from 3500-7200RPM. 9800 is so far past that point that it feels like someone telling you that it will push that far is about the same as them telling you the problem is the muffler bearings.
9800 may have been slightly exaggerated but john does cams for a living and is one of the best. With my 10:1 6.0 and this eq1 intake it's just completely wrong. Intake valve is opening way too soon. To put it in too perspective I dont hit peak boost until peak rpm (7500). It rises with rpm its that bad. Now it could also be off and making the issue even worse but because it's already the wrong cam I'm not even gonna degree it. The motor just wont make any torque or power. The new cam will be here Wednesday and I cant wait to throw it in. If this setup was a 11.5:1 with a longer runner manifold it may work alot better.. but the eq1 has a 4" runner and makes no torque down low and he mentioned they normally require a cam with about 4 more degrees overlap if I recall. It doesn't help that my torque converter is tight either but it's just cause it ain't making no torque lol.
I finally got all my graphs sent to me here the most it would make hitting peak boost at about (22lbs) 7300
now technically if I threw 30lbs at it and went too 8k it should've made more but the cam is definitely not optimal at all, average power is down across the board. I'll keep you guys updated. Cam is also for sale lol $220obo will ship only 10dyno pulls
Last edited by Boostedbrick; 06-28-2020 at 05:59 PM.
Power is already rolling over at 6500 how is revving it any higher going to make a difference? I don't think the cam is the issue or certainly not the only issue.
Power is already rolling over at 6500 how is revving it any higher going to make a difference? I don't think the cam is the issue or certainly not the only issue.
I noticed that too and cant explain it to be honest... only thing I can think of is the tune was getting slightly richer up top. The power doesn't drop too much. The car seemed to be happiest around a 12afr but with the boost climbing the way it is I had it around 11.5 up top in the 20-24lb range so it may have not tapered off if I had kept it leaner idk..
You are all over the place. The cam isn't the reason for peak boost at peak rpm. You need someone competent to diagnose your setup and a cam guy isn't the one.
You are all over the place. The cam isn't the reason for peak boost at peak rpm. You need someone competent to diagnose your setup and a cam guy isn't the one.
Well i posted on here for a reason not to be told i need to go find somebody. what do you wanna hear? I normally don't have issues have been doing this stuff for several years and needed help.. cam isnt helping going to change it first then go from there. ill quit ranting.
You shouldn't swap the cam until you understand what's going on. Have you posted a log? Leakdown test? Dyno graphs? Preintercooler boost vs post? Measured back pressure? Pressure tested cold side to 30 psi?
You shouldn't swap the cam until you understand what's going on. Have you posted a log? Leakdown test? Dyno graphs? Preintercooler boost vs post? Measured back pressure? Pressure tested cold side to 30 psi?
I tried posting logs it wouldn't let me, I have 10 logs and 10 dyno graphs. Engine is fresh with no blow by, no smoke, all plugs looked good. compression was 145 in all 8. I don't have a leak down tester it came up missing. preintercooled map will be added soon just have to tap piping. Intercooler is a large type 12 (2000hp core) 4" in and out. vband off turbo and vband at tb, 2 straight couplers with tbolts, there are no leaks i have very few connections and have went over everything top to bottom visually and have taken pipes out to make sure.
last year i was running 5.90's with a 5.3 and btr stage 2 Turbo cam on 18lbs with same turbo while also having LESS intake, compression, intercooler, and exhaust flow.. its just lazy. launching off tb is a different story but tell me why a cam change wouldn't be a good start? Im trying to race a no prep in two weeks and need to get it fixed quickly im very limited on time and if a cam expert (the one that designed the cams alot are using) will sit there and give me 10 different reasons why this cam is completely wrong im gonna take his advice and change it, whats it gonna hurt?
I tried posting logs it wouldn't let me, I have 10 logs and 10 dyno graphs. Engine is fresh with no blow by, no smoke, all plugs looked good. compression was 145 in all 8. I don't have a leak down tester it came up missing. preintercooled map will be added soon just have to tap piping. Intercooler is a large type 12 (2000hp core) 4" in and out. vband off turbo and vband at tb, 2 straight couplers with tbolts, there are no leaks i have very few connections and have went over everything top to bottom visually and have taken pipes out to make sure.
last year i was running 5.90's with a 5.3 and btr stage 2 Turbo cam on 18lbs with same turbo while also having LESS intake, compression, intercooler, and exhaust flow.. its just lazy. launching off tb is a different story but tell me why a cam change wouldn't be a good start? Im trying to race a no prep in two weeks and need to get it fixed quickly im very limited on time and if a cam expert (the one that designed the cams alot are using) will sit there and give me 10 different reasons why this cam is completely wrong im gonna take his advice and change it, whats it gonna hurt?
The cam expert also sells cams for a living, he's not exactly unbiased. Your post is basically saying "I looked over stuff." "Can't find it." "Plugs look good." If you want to get to the root of your problem you need the data. Pressure testing the cold side is a great way to find surprise issues including if there's an intake or valve leaking. You have 2 degrees of overlap in that cam, its not going to bleed a ton of compression so your cranking compression does seem low, but I don't think that's root cause either.
Pulling the cam without knowing where it was installed makes NO sense. What do you learn from that? Especially when you have a degree wheel coming. I understand when problems occur it's a major bummer, easy to get emotionally weathered and start doing random stuff. If you really want to know what's going on, define a plan and execute (plan your work and work your plan). With a good plan, you can capture the data/information to make an informed decision. Good luck.
So I keep going back through this thread looking and I see E85 listed in the first post. But then the AFR's you list later are more like gasoline AFR's. Are you really running 12:1 and 11.5:1 on E85?
And it's not the camshaft. If 7500 or about is what you intended to run then that is the perfect camshaft. Unless that thing is just plain installed wrong its not going to be that. I'm close to throwing a bet down that the problem is probably all in the tune entirely.
Pulling the cam without knowing where it was installed makes NO sense. What do you learn from that? Especially when you have a degree wheel coming. I understand when problems occur it's a major bummer, easy to get emotionally weathered and start doing random stuff. If you really want to know what's going on, define a plan and execute (plan your work and work your plan). With a good plan, you can capture the data/information to make an informed decision. Good luck.
I suppose I can degree it before I take it out, your right on following thru with that.
So I keep going back through this thread looking and I see E85 listed in the first post. But then the AFR's you list later are more like gasoline AFR's. Are you really running 12:1 and 11.5:1 on E85?
And it's not the camshaft. If 7500 or about is what you intended to run then that is the perfect camshaft. Unless that thing is just plain installed wrong its not going to be that. I'm close to throwing a bet down that the problem is probably all in the tune entirely.
I'm gonna go ahead and degree the cam that's in it now like I originally planned. Just getting impatient with the car and want it to work. Yes I'm using gas scale, I'd almost bet it's not the tune.. i went both ways with timing and fuel trying to make power and it didnt really respond. I dont think I should have to run 30lbs on this setup just to crack 750whp unless that dyno was just that far off but dont think it is. Cant wait to get this thing sorted out... still waiting on degree wheel
06-28-2020, 11:28 AM
