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For once in a month, we didn't get shut down for rain. But after the first lane of cars made a pass, the last car, on a bye run, blew its guts out at the 1/8th mile, shutting us down for freakin' hour.
Finally got up to try to make a pass. Warmed up the 28" Hoosiers, and then creeped into the two staging lights, flipped on the 2 step, the trans brake and the line lock. Activated them and floored the gas. On the last yellow, I let off the button. I felt a little light headed from the leave and couple that with the fact the sun was right at the end of the track, I felt a bit disoriented. I looked for the tach reading on the dash but it was like someone shining a search light right in my eyes. I let off and just coasted to the end of the track and went back and got in line.
Sixty foot was 1.60 on that one.
Next pass, about 45 minutes later, the sun was below the horizon now and I could see. So, repeat the above and this time, no light headedness. But I still have that crap Boss Hog Torque converter. Lol,... I looked at the tach as I shifted from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd at 6,700. It didn't drop one rpm on the shifts. Can't wait till the PTC TC ships. Before the end of the 1/4, I let off. Not sure why but I did.
Ugh.. Something is going on with my fuel system. Last week, the engine melted half their plug straps on cylinder numbers #4 and #6. As a result I took out all the TR6 plugs and put in BR7EF's. Took a quick boost run and checked the plugs. Looked good. Ran yesterday at the track and driving home from the track, I noticed (at least) one cylinder seemed to be out of sorts. Still, on the way home, temps stayed where they always stay (middle position between zero degrees and the 1st quarter mark) and no smoke or steam or leaks anywhere.
Put her in the shop, closed the shop door and let her cool overnight before I investigated. This morning, checked plug wires (for any burnt ones), no issue. Checked oil level. Pristine, at the proper level and still translucent. Checked coolant. At the proper level, no contaminants. Pulled plug # 6 first since it was one of the melted plugs from last week. Crrrraaaappp.... Melted electrode AND the porcelain in the barrel of the plug = gone. Cylinder #4 is the only plug I can't remove w/o being under the car so I took out all the rest. Cylinder #2 was indicating lean(white) but plugs 1,3,5,7 and 8 had a distinct yellow tinge on the tip of the ground strap. I'll pull plug #4 later tonight when I have a chance to get the car up on jackstands.
I bought a setup to monitor the fuel pressure (3 wire pressure sensor w/pigtail, plus a -6an fitting with a side port to mount the sensor) with my HPTuners but I just got it yesterday and have not installed it. I'm going to order another fuel filter, even though the current one looks fine. I won't get into boost until I get the fuel pressure monitored in HP tuners.
Put new plugs in it tonight and cranked it to see if it would start and run okay. While it did start, there's something obviously wrong with it now. I started pulling everything off in prep to pull the engine this weekend and check the head gaskets, cylinder walls, valves, rods, pistons and bearings. I ordered a new fuel pump today (525 lph) and it will be here within a week.
I'll freshen up the lifters and springs while I'm in there. Been running her hard for 5 years so it's time anyway. Contemplating getting a new cam too.
Last edited by mightyquickz28; Aug 6, 2020 at 09:05 PM.
Thanks. I just printed off the fuel injector clinic submittal sheet. I'll pull the injectors in the morning and ship them off. I'm going to label the troubled cylinders #4 and #6 injectors separately so I can see if they are distinct in their performance/lack of..
Originally Posted by Bad Apache
Send the injectors out to be cleaned and flowed. Sounds like your issue may be them. Great pass nonetheless!!!
Collected the 127# Bosch injectors off my engine, separated the injectors #4 and #6 from the others, put them into some bags and shipped them off to Fuel Injector Clinic for cleaning and flowing. Put the car up in the air and disconnecting everything so I can drop the engine and trans from the bottom. I want to get the heads off tomorrow or Sunday to see what's going on.
I have a set of Bosch 210's on the shelf I can use but I'm fairly sure the 127# will be back before I have the head gaskets and other bit's and pieces here.
Well, got the engine out last night, pulled the passenger side head.
Assessment:
Head has some affected area for cylinder 6. Probably from either the broken sparkplug porcelain or a chunk of piston. Valves seem to be okay (non visibly bent anyway)
Part of piston #6 is gone. Top of cylinder wall looks scored too.
Talked to a machinist an hour ago. He's got a lull in activity at his shop and indicates he can get to my stuff quickly. I'll drop it off either tomorrow or Tuesday.
Resurface the heads
check what overbore I'll need, get some Wiseco Pistons
Not sure if anything else needs replacement till he opens it up.
Originally Posted by SCLT1
Sorry to see that man! What engine is next?? Can’t wait for the build..
Talked to a machinist an hour ago. He's got a lull in activity at his shop and indicates he can get to my stuff quickly. I'll drop it off either tomorrow or Tuesday.
Resurface the heads
check what overbore I'll need, get some Wiseco Pistons
Not sure if anything else needs replacement till he opens it up.
fyi, the summit pro ls pistons are the exact same as wiseco. They wouldn’t confirm or deny it, but when everything has the same markings, the same wrist pins, plastic bags etc.....I know they are the same. There was only one difference, there was grooves in the piston above the top ring land. That’s the only difference, and the price.
Is that right? Hmmm... I'll check them out. Thanks for the tip!
Originally Posted by Kfxguy
fyi, the summit pro ls pistons are the exact same as wiseco. They wouldn’t confirm or deny it, but when everything has the same markings, the same wrist pins, plastic bags etc.....I know they are the same. There was only one difference, there was grooves in the piston above the top ring land. That’s the only difference, and the price.
Just a thought, didnt you use an aftermarket intake-I wonder if those cyls ports could have been leaking, sucking air, or even around the injs-I had an inj leak when I switched to taller injs on an LS3 intake, tried reusing the fuel rails, but the alignment was off.
I've been using the stock GM LS1 intake since I first put in the 5.3 , mainly for hood clearance and the seeming lack of any substantial improvement that any of the low profile manifolds provide. Thanks.
Originally Posted by forcd ind
Just a thought, didnt you use an aftermarket intake-I wonder if those cyls ports could have been leaking, sucking air, or even around the injs-I had an inj leak when I switched to taller injs on an LS3 intake, tried reusing the fuel rails, but the alignment was off.
At your power level you could benefit from running colder plugs. Like you I've been running NGK BR7EF but switching to R5671A-8 on my next plug change.
I'll try to remember to take a screen shot of my exhaust manifolds interior ports, as seen from the head side. About 3 or so weeks ago, my. whole AFR/Lambda seemed to shift leaner, looked over everything and couldn't readily find a cause. I chalked it up to weather. I started adding fuel till the wide band gave good indications. Now, when I took off the hotside and saw the interiors of the ports, I see that all cylinders except 4 and 6 look dark/sooty. Meanwhile, ports 4 and 6 are chalk white. If it were the pump or filters, etc, all plugs would look white. I have to hope that this was some fluke where the Bosch 127# for those cylinders went bad or the connectors are bad or something. This was strange. While the block is at the machine shop, I'll take the fuel rails off and inspect them, plus, I'll do a circuit test on those injectors wires from the PCM to the clips.
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Went to the track for test n tune night. 
