Should I put main studs on a 416 stroker
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On The Tree
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From: Miami
Should I put main studs on a 416 stroker Going to be a daily driver for now. It’s my friends build and he wants to know if main studs are necessary on a 416 stroker. He plans on going boost in the future and make around 800hp. Thank you.
I did.I suppose it depends on what you are using for a block etc., but it was worth the money to have the studs put in and line hone the block. I might think twice with a cast iron block, but not an aluminum block. It also made it a lot easier to tighten the main caps since you only have to do it by torque now instead of stretch like the original bolts.
I have an aluminum block. I put main studs. I DID NOT LINE HONE IT. Why? Well I talked to two different people IN PERSON who build these engines on the regular...one owns a shop. They said they have never line honed an aluminum block because they were putting studs and never had an issue. You can read my build thread on my 5.3 and you'll see i chose to forgo that expensive process. I dunno how many miles are on my engine, but its several thousand. If I were going to have a problem because of that, I would have already.
BESIDES....see if you can find someone whose had a failure due to putting main studs and not line honing. I wasnt successful at finding anyone. I think its one of those things where its easy to spend someone elses money from the internet. You have to be careful with that, do your research. I did.
I'm pushing it on 18-20psi too btw.
BESIDES....see if you can find someone whose had a failure due to putting main studs and not line honing. I wasnt successful at finding anyone. I think its one of those things where its easy to spend someone elses money from the internet. You have to be careful with that, do your research. I did.
I'm pushing it on 18-20psi too btw.
Yeah, I would definitely do some research Anthony. Kfxguy built a 5.3 that are a dime a dozen with a factory crank and some aftermarket rods. You are building a stroker with a minimum $1100 crank, $600 rods, and if it is a LS3 block, worth about $2400. You are going to pay more for the studs than you probably will the line hone.
Nobody is spending anybody's money here, but if you smoke the bottom end because the block twisted .003" (which mine did) and wipe out your new crank, you can bet nobody that told you to save the $200 on the line hone will help you fix it.
Nobody is spending anybody's money here, but if you smoke the bottom end because the block twisted .003" (which mine did) and wipe out your new crank, you can bet nobody that told you to save the $200 on the line hone will help you fix it.
Last edited by joyridin'; Sep 12, 2020 at 08:49 AM.
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At your hp goal, not needed. If you decide studs, line bore/hone the mains isn't automatically required because of studs. If block/core is shifted, only way to know is fixture it up and measure. Some might use plastigauge after crank and main bearing bores are measured to see if any come in tighter than expected indication main bore not aligned.
If it's a sloppy 416, put it together and run it. If it were me, I'd want to know block is setup (blueprinted) to know it's right (especially bearing clearances) and balance the rotating assembly (w/ CCW crank) so it's ready for 8500rpm. With or without main studs.
If it's a sloppy 416, put it together and run it. If it were me, I'd want to know block is setup (blueprinted) to know it's right (especially bearing clearances) and balance the rotating assembly (w/ CCW crank) so it's ready for 8500rpm. With or without main studs.
Yeah, I would definitely do some research Anthony. Kfxguy built a 5.3 that are a die a dozen with a factory crank and some aftermarket rods. You are building a stroker with a minimum $1100 crank, $600 rods, and if it is a LS3 block, worth about $2400. You are going to pay more for the studs than you probably will the line hone.
Nobody is spending anybody's money here, but if you smoke the bottom end because the block twisted .003" (which mine did) and wipe out your new crank, you can bet nobody that told you to save the $200 on the line hone will help you fix it.
Nobody is spending anybody's money here, but if you smoke the bottom end because the block twisted .003" (which mine did) and wipe out your new crank, you can bet nobody that told you to save the $200 on the line hone will help you fix it.
lmao. Both of the guys that never line gone their blocks almost always build strokers. It’s a waste of money. Anyone is free to do as they choose, if you like throwing money away, have at it. I’ve never seen a engine failure due to a lack of line honing. I called one machine shop to get a price on it, because internet professionals insisted it HAD to be done....and the guy I talked to laughed at me. Said it’s my money but it wasn’t needed unless there was something known to be wrong with my block. If the bearings that came out a 150k mile engine line I had looked good, then why would I have reason to believe it needed to be done? Waste your money if you want.
why don’t you preassemble it (as you should) and check to see if the crank turns freely.
You must have deleted your post about the line gone be cheaper than the studs. Maybe you know someone but I was quoted between $300 and $400. Add that to the price of studs. And you got $650 tied up in studs. No thx.
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Op, read what Tony Mamo wrote.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ain-studs.html
he makes a good point too, what if the machine shop gets it wrong? You may cause more problems doing it than leaving it alone. That was my concern. I checked my mains with a dial bore gauge and they were fine. So I rolled with it.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ain-studs.html
he makes a good point too, what if the machine shop gets it wrong? You may cause more problems doing it than leaving it alone. That was my concern. I checked my mains with a dial bore gauge and they were fine. So I rolled with it.
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Op, read what Tony Mamo wrote.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ain-studs.html
he makes a good point too, what if the machine shop gets it wrong? You may cause more problems doing it than leaving it alone. That was my concern. I checked my mains with a dial bore gauge and they were fine. So I rolled with it.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ain-studs.html
he makes a good point too, what if the machine shop gets it wrong? You may cause more problems doing it than leaving it alone. That was my concern. I checked my mains with a dial bore gauge and they were fine. So I rolled with it.
Like I said, you built a 5.3. I could have bought one from a junk yard, thrown on a turbo and run what you did. He is building a stroker that he is planning on turbo/supercharging at a later date. Big difference. Are you going to help him pay for a new bottom end if the bearing spins in the block and wipes out the crank and block? Of course not.
If your engine machine shop is getting it wrong, you probably should be looking for another shop. Besides, a line hone not only makes the diameter round, it straightens out the bore through the whole block, which is probably a bigger concern than the actual diameter considering how much core shift you can have from the block expansion of an aluminum block. This is really an issue if the block got overheated or the mains were toasted in it previously.
Last edited by joyridin'; Sep 12, 2020 at 09:05 AM.
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Align hone There is a reason you tq the msins to a certain spec now add studs it adds clamping force , more force pulls the cap in more, thats like saying just throw on some billet maun caps and call it good, you may get lucky, is it right nole. I make sure my egunes are right to much work to pull apart, my name goes on them, I know for a fact it will change the shape of the cap, , enough to squish a bearing most likely , anyone who suggests that you don't check is crazy, even just a little bearing material can wipe a engine quick, almost like going back to flat tappet cam days and not using moly lube
It is right there in the second paragraph of my post about studs being cheaper than the line hone.
Like I said, you built a 5.3. I could have bought one from a junk yard, thrown on a turbo and run what you did. He is building a stroker that he is planning on turbo/supercharging at a later date. Big difference. Are you going to help him pay for a new bottom end if the bearing spins in the block and wipes out the crank and block? Of course not.
If your engine machine shop is getting it wrong, you probably should be looking for another shop. Besides, a line hone not only makes the diameter round, it straightens out the bore through the whole block, which is probably a bigger concern than the actual diameter considering how much core shift you can have from the block expansion of an aluminum block. This is really an issue if the block got overheated or the mains were toasted in it previously.
Like I said, you built a 5.3. I could have bought one from a junk yard, thrown on a turbo and run what you did. He is building a stroker that he is planning on turbo/supercharging at a later date. Big difference. Are you going to help him pay for a new bottom end if the bearing spins in the block and wipes out the crank and block? Of course not.
If your engine machine shop is getting it wrong, you probably should be looking for another shop. Besides, a line hone not only makes the diameter round, it straightens out the bore through the whole block, which is probably a bigger concern than the actual diameter considering how much core shift you can have from the block expansion of an aluminum block. This is really an issue if the block got overheated or the mains were toasted in it previously.
Some people arent blessed enough to have competent machine shops local. I'd rather chance it on the factory line hone job vs let someone here local **** it up for me and say it was builder error. Just like they did to me years ago when i had a crank grinded. I dont trust anyone around here to do stuff like that. I also got a bad balance job from a different shop. that bitch had such a harmonic that the oil pump pickup tube (sbc) would break off the pump in 500 miles (happened twice). Yes, it broke off and you could feel a huge vibration around 3500. So Thats why i wont do it.
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I have to say I've put arp rod bolts in an engine without getting the rods resized with no problems. Ive put main studs in with no align hone and no problem. I plastigauged and it was different but still with in spec. I did put main studs in my LSX and align honed it. I admit the crank seemed to spin alot smoother after the align hone even though the mains were with in spec with bolts also. If it was me I'd get it honed if you already got it all torn apart but if you install them and they are in spec run it. My opinion.
run what I did? The time i have posted in my sig is from the stock 5.7, that was my beginning setup, having never had any experience with turbos in the first place. Not the engine I have now. I have not posted what it runs yet. I dell pretty certain its going t o go quite a bit faster than that on double the boost....but thats besides the point. You tried to ding me on having a built motor, so i felt the need to correct you.
Some people arent blessed enough to have competent machine shops local. I'd rather chance it on the factory line hone job vs let someone here local **** it up for me and say it was builder error. Just like they did to me years ago when i had a crank grinded. I dont trust anyone around here to do stuff like that. I also got a bad balance job from a different shop. that bitch had such a harmonic that the oil pump pickup tube (sbc) would break off the pump in 500 miles (happened twice). Yes, it broke off and you could feel a huge vibration around 3500. So Thats why i wont do it.
Some people arent blessed enough to have competent machine shops local. I'd rather chance it on the factory line hone job vs let someone here local **** it up for me and say it was builder error. Just like they did to me years ago when i had a crank grinded. I dont trust anyone around here to do stuff like that. I also got a bad balance job from a different shop. that bitch had such a harmonic that the oil pump pickup tube (sbc) would break off the pump in 500 miles (happened twice). Yes, it broke off and you could feel a huge vibration around 3500. So Thats why i wont do it.
Well that sucks. I did recently get a bad piston, the pin wouldnt even fit....but thats blatantly obvious.