Summit pro ls Rod and pistons
#1
Summit pro ls Rod and pistons
Hey all,
wondering if anyone has used the summit rods and pistons pro ls stuff? Any good?
5.3 block currently just got a hone and stock gear back in, will I need to pull the block out first and measure up too see if I need an overbore before hi buy.
also running a s475 t4 1.1 btr stage 2 e85.0
How much boost / horsepower could you run reasonably safe?
Not sure it would be worth doing a crank too, otherwise may as well go bigger cube block.
wondering if anyone has used the summit rods and pistons pro ls stuff? Any good?
5.3 block currently just got a hone and stock gear back in, will I need to pull the block out first and measure up too see if I need an overbore before hi buy.
also running a s475 t4 1.1 btr stage 2 e85.0
How much boost / horsepower could you run reasonably safe?
Not sure it would be worth doing a crank too, otherwise may as well go bigger cube block.
#2
Hey all,
wondering if anyone has used the summit rods and pistons pro ls stuff? Any good?
5.3 block currently just got a hone and stock gear back in, will I need to pull the block out first and measure up too see if I need an overbore before hi buy.
also running a s475 t4 1.1 btr stage 2 e85.0
How much boost / horsepower could you run reasonably safe?
Not sure it would be worth doing a crank too, otherwise may as well go bigger cube block.
wondering if anyone has used the summit rods and pistons pro ls stuff? Any good?
5.3 block currently just got a hone and stock gear back in, will I need to pull the block out first and measure up too see if I need an overbore before hi buy.
also running a s475 t4 1.1 btr stage 2 e85.0
How much boost / horsepower could you run reasonably safe?
Not sure it would be worth doing a crank too, otherwise may as well go bigger cube block.
The following users liked this post:
jaydubb (12-06-2020)
#7
Hey all,
wondering if anyone has used the summit rods and pistons pro ls stuff? Any good?
5.3 block currently just got a hone and stock gear back in, will I need to pull the block out first and measure up too see if I need an overbore before hi buy.
also running a s475 t4 1.1 btr stage 2 e85.0
How much boost / horsepower could you run reasonably safe?
Not sure it would be worth doing a crank too, otherwise may as well go bigger cube block.
wondering if anyone has used the summit rods and pistons pro ls stuff? Any good?
5.3 block currently just got a hone and stock gear back in, will I need to pull the block out first and measure up too see if I need an overbore before hi buy.
also running a s475 t4 1.1 btr stage 2 e85.0
How much boost / horsepower could you run reasonably safe?
Not sure it would be worth doing a crank too, otherwise may as well go bigger cube block.
The following users liked this post:
foxfan (12-07-2020)
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#8
Holdner is also applying a piddly amount of load to those engines on the dyno compared to "real world" loads. Also his 1300hp is everyone else's 900 hp . So take his power numbers stuff with a grain of salt.
If you don't load up the GEN3 stuff early in the RPM range (where they naturally make power) then you can make them live at much higher power numbers. I'd say less than 3% of the folks on this forum actually run the engines this way, its not very practical for a street/strip car. So unless you cam it to the moon and stall past PK TQ RPM, I'd keep it around 600 with gen3 stuff if you want it to live.
That said you can get gen4 4.8's and 5.3's for under $500 around here pretty easily. No down time, no machine shop bills etc... Personally I'd just grab a gen4 engine and go from there. The car will be done and running much faster. Gen4 rods/and pistons go for sub $200 all the time as well. Personally I like to pick up the whole engines. You have alot more spare parts and things to sell that way.
My 2011 alum 5.3 was $500. Sold the 243's immediately for $300 and the intake/inj's for $75. So I basically have a $125 gen4 alum short block ready to go. Then have spare bolts, covers, oil pan, WP, etc... All for less than the price of a hot tank, hone and cam bearing job at a machine shop... And I didn't have to wait a month for them to do all that. Nothing against summit parts, I'm sure they are great. I'd rather have a spare gen4 short block or 3 sitting around than have that cost tied up in 1 engine.
If you don't load up the GEN3 stuff early in the RPM range (where they naturally make power) then you can make them live at much higher power numbers. I'd say less than 3% of the folks on this forum actually run the engines this way, its not very practical for a street/strip car. So unless you cam it to the moon and stall past PK TQ RPM, I'd keep it around 600 with gen3 stuff if you want it to live.
That said you can get gen4 4.8's and 5.3's for under $500 around here pretty easily. No down time, no machine shop bills etc... Personally I'd just grab a gen4 engine and go from there. The car will be done and running much faster. Gen4 rods/and pistons go for sub $200 all the time as well. Personally I like to pick up the whole engines. You have alot more spare parts and things to sell that way.
My 2011 alum 5.3 was $500. Sold the 243's immediately for $300 and the intake/inj's for $75. So I basically have a $125 gen4 alum short block ready to go. Then have spare bolts, covers, oil pan, WP, etc... All for less than the price of a hot tank, hone and cam bearing job at a machine shop... And I didn't have to wait a month for them to do all that. Nothing against summit parts, I'm sure they are great. I'd rather have a spare gen4 short block or 3 sitting around than have that cost tied up in 1 engine.
Last edited by Forcefed86; 12-08-2020 at 09:52 AM.
#9
Holdner is also applying a piddly amount of load to those engines on the dyno compared to "real world" loads. Also his 1300hp is everyone else's 900 hp . So take his power numbers stuff with a grain of salt.
If you don't load up the GEN3 stuff early in the RPM range (where they naturally make power) then you can make them live at much higher power numbers. I'd say less than 3% of the folks on this forum actually run the engines this way, its not very practical for a street/strip car. So unless you cam it to the moon and stall past PK TQ RPM, I'd keep it around 600 with gen3 stuff if you want it to live.
That said you can get gen4 4.8's and 5.3's for under $500 around here pretty easily. No down time, no machine shop bills etc... Personally I'd just grab a gen4 engine and go from there. The car will be done and running much faster. Gen4 rods/and pistons go for sub $200 all the time as well. Personally I like to pick up the whole engines. You have alot more spare parts and things to sell that way.
My 2011 alum 5.3 was $500. Sold the 243's immediately for $300 and the intake/inj's for $75. So I basically have a $125 gen4 alum short block ready to go. Then have spare bolts, covers, oil pan, WP, etc... All for less than the price of a hot tank, hone and cam bearing job at a machine shop... And I didn't have to wait a month for them to do all that. Nothing against summit parts, I'm sure they are great. I'd rather have a spare gen4 short block or 3 sitting around than have that cost tied up in 1 engine.
If you don't load up the GEN3 stuff early in the RPM range (where they naturally make power) then you can make them live at much higher power numbers. I'd say less than 3% of the folks on this forum actually run the engines this way, its not very practical for a street/strip car. So unless you cam it to the moon and stall past PK TQ RPM, I'd keep it around 600 with gen3 stuff if you want it to live.
That said you can get gen4 4.8's and 5.3's for under $500 around here pretty easily. No down time, no machine shop bills etc... Personally I'd just grab a gen4 engine and go from there. The car will be done and running much faster. Gen4 rods/and pistons go for sub $200 all the time as well. Personally I like to pick up the whole engines. You have alot more spare parts and things to sell that way.
My 2011 alum 5.3 was $500. Sold the 243's immediately for $300 and the intake/inj's for $75. So I basically have a $125 gen4 alum short block ready to go. Then have spare bolts, covers, oil pan, WP, etc... All for less than the price of a hot tank, hone and cam bearing job at a machine shop... And I didn't have to wait a month for them to do all that. Nothing against summit parts, I'm sure they are great. I'd rather have a spare gen4 short block or 3 sitting around than have that cost tied up in 1 engine.
#10
Hold my beer and watch me this weekend. I'm going to see if Cesar can squeeze maybe 800 Wheel on my Precision 76/75 CEA. I hurt a piston my high dollar 6.0 a few weeks ago most likely because of back pressure from the little Precision. My brother had a stock 2003 4.8 in reserve. Put a set of ported stock valve sized 243s and a 214/220 TSP Turbo Cam. LS6 Intake, ID1300s, E85, Huron V3 T4 AC Kit
We put it in and I almost have it ready to go to HPF.
We put it in and I almost have it ready to go to HPF.
#11
I have the summit rods and pistons in my 5.3. you can read my build thread. My opinion is this: you can chance a SBE engine, you might get lucky, you might not. If you are using good heads (ported or aftermarket) I wouldnt chance it. Thats just me. I built mine so I can lean on it and not have to worry about it. I cheaped out on **** and it came back and bit me in the ***. Dont cheap out unless you like to spend more money than you would just doing it correctly AND you'd rather work on your **** than drive it.
You ask a question here, your likely to get 10 different answers....so You'll have to make your own decision.
If you destroy the SBE motor, then thats one less block and possibly set of heads that you have.
mine has seen 22psi on the regular and 24psi from time to time. On 93 pump gas.
btw, I broke a piston in my SBE gen 4 ls1 (ls6 bottom end) in my gto at about 11-12psi. I thought it was because I ran it too lean, but most are saying 11.6-11.8afr wasnt too lean and i old had timing at 11 degrees.
You ask a question here, your likely to get 10 different answers....so You'll have to make your own decision.
If you destroy the SBE motor, then thats one less block and possibly set of heads that you have.
mine has seen 22psi on the regular and 24psi from time to time. On 93 pump gas.
btw, I broke a piston in my SBE gen 4 ls1 (ls6 bottom end) in my gto at about 11-12psi. I thought it was because I ran it too lean, but most are saying 11.6-11.8afr wasnt too lean and i old had timing at 11 degrees.
Last edited by Kfxguy; 12-09-2020 at 12:22 PM.
#12
Hold my beer and watch me this weekend. I'm going to see if Cesar can squeeze maybe 800 Wheel on my Precision 76/75 CEA. I hurt a piston my high dollar 6.0 a few weeks ago most likely because of back pressure from the little Precision. My brother had a stock 2003 4.8 in reserve. Put a set of ported stock valve sized 243s and a 214/220 TSP Turbo Cam. LS6 Intake, ID1300s, E85, Huron V3 T4 AC Kit
#13
#15
We both know the PT 76/75 isn't going to make 1000 even on the 4.8 especially through an unlocked 4L80 and a 9"
Whatever point your making by turning the replies into a debate and defense session of my "weak ***" combo isn't worth the hassle. I posted it to let the OP see what stock Gen 3 stuff is doing on here with current posters and non race dedicated setups and a good tuner. 775-800 would make me happy, Anything more will be icing on the cake.
We should see how it rolls tomorrow.
Whatever point your making by turning the replies into a debate and defense session of my "weak ***" combo isn't worth the hassle. I posted it to let the OP see what stock Gen 3 stuff is doing on here with current posters and non race dedicated setups and a good tuner. 775-800 would make me happy, Anything more will be icing on the cake.
We should see how it rolls tomorrow.
#16
We both know the PT 76/75 isn't going to make 1000 even on the 4.8 especially through an unlocked 4L80 and a 9"
Whatever point your making by turning the replies into a debate and defense session of my "weak ***" combo isn't worth the hassle. I posted it to let the OP see what stock Gen 3 stuff is doing on here with current posters and non race dedicated setups and a good tuner. 775-800 would make me happy, Anything more will be icing on the cake.
We should see how it rolls tomorrow.
Whatever point your making by turning the replies into a debate and defense session of my "weak ***" combo isn't worth the hassle. I posted it to let the OP see what stock Gen 3 stuff is doing on here with current posters and non race dedicated setups and a good tuner. 775-800 would make me happy, Anything more will be icing on the cake.
We should see how it rolls tomorrow.
I was simply saying that numerous people have made near 1000 with SBE 4.8's and that many have made over 800 with 76mm turbos so you shouldn't have any issues reaching your goal. Not sure where the confusion is.
#17
Well I apologize for being bitchy then. I'll blame it on lack of sleep the last two weeks and get my *** out in the garage and get the cold side, plugs, coil packs, exhaust and all of that other little stuff that seems to drag out right before you are "finished".
#18
Skinnies made 850 on a mustang dyno unlocked (TH400) with the 76/75 on a 5.3 in his old RX-7. Then turned up the boost and went quicker. I know it's already been said, but there's an actual example. Believe that only trapped about 159 at that power level/boost setting well... Same turbo trapped 164 turned up more. (super light car but still making north of 850whp).
#20
Hey there, we put quite a bit of effort into crossing the t's and dotting the i's on these. They are working well for people. We came out with 3rd gen, 4th gen, and 6.125 rod versions to for people on different budgets. Feel free to ping us anytime on your combination and we're happy to help put together the part numbers you need to fit the bore size etc.
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Jwooky (12-14-2020)