How to make 03 Z06 800+ RWHP?
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Three reasons why the LS1/LS6 Block isnt as good as the Iron/C5R blocks.
1.The aluminum blocks distort more. Bad cylinder sealing and bearing wear that can lead to failure.
2. The bulk heads break (sp)
3. The threads in the block stretch under higher boost. Head lifting problem is less with an iron block.
Thoes are the reasons i have found or been told by shops.
1.The aluminum blocks distort more. Bad cylinder sealing and bearing wear that can lead to failure.
2. The bulk heads break (sp)
3. The threads in the block stretch under higher boost. Head lifting problem is less with an iron block.
Thoes are the reasons i have found or been told by shops.
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Originally Posted by LSs1Power
I dont know why people keep talking about going with C5R or Iron blocks.... I never heard of a LS1/LS6 block crack under boost soo far. Did u guys see a LS1/LS6 block crack from boost?
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Originally Posted by SpeedQuest TV
1st- I have been with the high horsepower rotaries for 4-5 years now. I recently signed up with this forum in hopes of technical help and so forth. The reason being that I am foregoing the task of swapping my beloved 13/20b for a LSx. I am not sure anymore though. I have dynoed 611hp from my turboed 13b-1.3L, another buddy I used to race with dynoed his 20b @ 846. If we are making this much power with so little displacment, why the difficulty with the MUCH bigger engines????
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Originally Posted by LSs1Power
I dont know why people keep talking about going with C5R or Iron blocks.... I never heard of a LS1/LS6 block crack under boost soo far. Did u guys see a LS1/LS6 block crack from boost?
#49
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
With the amount of core shift in a 6.0 block, only a select amount can take a 4.060 or 4.080 overbore. A 4.080 ovebored 6.0 block is very rare.
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A C5R block is in a class all it's own, it's a better block than a production LS1, LS6, 5.3, 6.0 or 4.8 block. Kurt Urban would be the best guy to expound on this, but it's a different metal alloy and it's also goes through a fancier hardening process.
If I were to try to build an low to mid 8 second car I would look at getting a C5R block.
If I were to try to build an low to mid 8 second car I would look at getting a C5R block.
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Originally Posted by Evil Turbo SS
I wouldnt go with a 427 on an Iron block or the C5R block. Thats a lot of stress with a long stroke on any block. I would build a 370-388 cid 6L Iron block motor (new) Have the block fitted with thicker head bolts and use the AFR heads. I think you could build that motor for 11k. Then I would do a single turbo.
Do the Holdens (GTO) use the newwer fuel system? Whats different about it?
Starr performance offers a MAF delete kit with a 2 bar MAP. CAn we user that on the US cars?
Do the Holdens (GTO) use the newwer fuel system? Whats different about it?
Starr performance offers a MAF delete kit with a 2 bar MAP. CAn we user that on the US cars?
.030 over ironblock, 4.030 blower pistons and good rods, good bolts/studs with stock crank.
high flowing heads (2.08/1.60 valves)
Blower cam (236/242 on 114 or so)
Wouldn't be too expensive at all for the motor.
Then...
custom steel bracket and F series blower
Giant front mount intercooler
Sumped tank and full fuel system
Some sort of engine management software.
good gas and tune
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Originally Posted by SpeedQuest TV
1st- I have been with the high horsepower rotaries for 4-5 years now. I recently signed up with this forum in hopes of technical help and so forth. The reason being that I am foregoing the task of swapping my beloved 13/20b for a LSx. I am not sure anymore though. I have dynoed 611hp from my turboed 13b-1.3L, another buddy I used to race with dynoed his 20b @ 846. If we are making this much power with so little displacment, why the difficulty with the MUCH bigger engines????
Originally Posted by SpeedQuest TV
2nd- WTF is up with the pricing of your guys turbo/supercharger kits???? You guys cant be serious that you pay upwards of $6000-$10000 trying to achieve 800rwhp! If someone could please give me a breakdown of these prices to see where these funds are going, Are these companies utilizing inconel exhuast manifolds or something?LOL. Seriously, If these are "standard" kits- twin turbos(could be dual ceramic ball bearings), Wastegate(s), BOV, manifolds, oil lines,etc WHERE IS THE OTHER $2-6k coming in at?
Rotary's also only need 4 fuel injectors. (less cost when it comes to fuel systems)
Originally Posted by SpeedQuest TV
3rd- Does anyone here utilize meoh injection on your setups???
Originally Posted by SpeedQuest TV
4th- Could someone please give a brief description of what kind of CFMs these engines move, to correctly give an accurate compressor/turbine/AR sizing.
Originally Posted by SpeedQuest TV
5th- I have been a long time Haltech enthusiast, and am very unfimiliar with the "EDIT" system. Is this a true SAMS? If not, MUCH more power can be attained from a true SAMS ie-Haltech, Motec, Fast, Microtech,Wolf,AEM, etc.
Some people run FAST etc... So yes enginemanagement is being used, just not as commonly as in the rotary world.
Originally Posted by SpeedQuest TV
6th- If no one can give an accurate or reasonable breakdown of question 2- I WILL GLADLY START SELLING MY OWN KITS FOR THOSE PRICES!
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I have been advised by bunch of people that block is not the way to go cheap if you are building a moster RWHP machine. So, I guess I should go with a C5-R block then. Bored to 4.125 with a 4.000 stroke.
Do you pick the piston bore size slightly larger than block bore size? Why dished pistons on supercharged cars? Can I order custom Lunati pistons? How do I know how much -cc? Do they thermal coat these pistons? How do I determine my compression ratio? I am thinking of 9.0:1 with 16 pounds of boost at 6000 rpm. Does that make sense? Centrifugal supercharger works linear to engine speed. But is there a way to keep 14-16 pounds of boost from 4000 to 6500 rpm? How much boost will I be making at 2000 rpm? All this is with a F1-R blower.
Does anybody have contact info for Lunati? I guess I should give them a call.
Wow, I just asked you guys a ton of questions. But I'm getting good replies and info. Thanks for all the input.
Do you pick the piston bore size slightly larger than block bore size? Why dished pistons on supercharged cars? Can I order custom Lunati pistons? How do I know how much -cc? Do they thermal coat these pistons? How do I determine my compression ratio? I am thinking of 9.0:1 with 16 pounds of boost at 6000 rpm. Does that make sense? Centrifugal supercharger works linear to engine speed. But is there a way to keep 14-16 pounds of boost from 4000 to 6500 rpm? How much boost will I be making at 2000 rpm? All this is with a F1-R blower.
Does anybody have contact info for Lunati? I guess I should give them a call.
Wow, I just asked you guys a ton of questions. But I'm getting good replies and info. Thanks for all the input.
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Originally Posted by SpeedQuest TV
1st- I have been with the high horsepower rotaries for 4-5 years now. I recently signed up with this forum in hopes of technical help and so forth. The reason being that I am foregoing the task of swapping my beloved 13/20b for a LSx. I am not sure anymore though. I have dynoed 611hp from my turboed 13b-1.3L, another buddy I used to race with dynoed his 20b @ 846. If we are making this much power with so little displacment, why the difficulty with the MUCH bigger engines????
Just out of curiousity.. why are you considering a pushrod v8 if you're making such great numbers?
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I'd ask you more about your turbo rotary setup (sounds like you're using two power adders), but I feel this is already border line hi-jacking (just helping to defend the LS1 peeps).
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anyways... back to our regularly scheduled program.
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Any reason why no one has mentioned a screw type SC w/ aftercooler for this application? Don't they make one? They fit on the vette's with a slightly modded hood... correct? I don't know much about these systems on your engines, but I know I don't care for the centrifugal style because the boost build in a linear manor with RPM. I know many on here keep saying use a centrifugal SC... yes they will make the big number, but other methods offer way more power at lower RPM's which is more usable power IMO while still being able to reach your HP requirement. I'd gladly pay a little more for a FI system that made full boost at lower RPM's, rather than the centrifugal types which only make the # at peak RPM.
Just my 3 cents.
Just my 3 cents.
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Originally Posted by Wet 1
Any reason why no one has mentioned a screw type SC w/ aftercooler for this application? Don't they make one? They fit on the vette's with a slightly modded hood... correct? I don't know much about these systems on your engines, but I know I don't care for the centrifugal style because the boost build in a linear manor with RPM. I know many on here keep saying use a centrifugal SC... yes they will make the big number, but other methods offer way more power at lower RPM's which is more usable power IMO while still being able to reach your HP requirement. I'd gladly pay a little more for a FI system that made full boost at lower RPM's, rather than the centrifugal types which only make the # at peak RPM.
Just my 3 cents.
Just my 3 cents.
Hard to go over 8# on a stock bottom end with one.
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
Gordon what's the lastest on your car, you have an F1 on there now?
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Originally Posted by Wet 1
Any reason why no one has mentioned a screw type SC w/ aftercooler for this application? Don't they make one? They fit on the vette's with a slightly modded hood... correct? I don't know much about these systems on your engines, but I know I don't care for the centrifugal style because the boost build in a linear manor with RPM. I know many on here keep saying use a centrifugal SC... yes they will make the big number, but other methods offer way more power at lower RPM's which is more usable power IMO while still being able to reach your HP requirement. I'd gladly pay a little more for a FI system that made full boost at lower RPM's, rather than the centrifugal types which only make the # at peak RPM.
Just my 3 cents.
Just my 3 cents.
No one is familiar with the MAF delete that the ausies are using to tune LS1 cars past the 800 rwhp mark?
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Originally Posted by Chris ARE 385
Never get enough boost out of the current kits (pulley limitations).
Hard to go over 8# on a stock bottom end with one.
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Hard to go over 8# on a stock bottom end with one.
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