Oil pump for twin turbo setup
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Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Bolton Masshole
Oil pump for twin turbo setup What oil pump are you guys running on your twin turbo setups? This is a gen 4 5.3. Stock? High volume? High pressure? Im going to be running 4AN feed line to both turbos with a restrictor (ball bearing turbos) with 10AN return. Stock C6 corvette oil pan. Any concerns sucking stock pan dry with a high volume oil pump?
Jonathan Capizzi uses a stock ported pump with a lightly shimmed spring and runs in the 7's on an SBE 5.3.
Lot's of guys running HV/HP pumps too but I don't think they spin them as high so they don't suck the pan empty, or run a deep sump with the pick up moved to the rear of the pan.
Lot's of guys running HV/HP pumps too but I don't think they spin them as high so they don't suck the pan empty, or run a deep sump with the pick up moved to the rear of the pan.
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stock original pump. usually if i remember ill put a little washer under the bypass spring to bump the pressure up a little but thats it. ive never actually bought a new oil pump for an ls before.
Ball bearing turbos aren't going to strain the oil system much at all fwiw. Even standard journal style don't.
Depends what pump you have. The factory DOD Pumps have larger wider vanes/rotor (what ever you want to call a geo-rotor pump) in them. They pump more pressure and volume. Once you block the DOD ports off the pressure goes up too high IMO. (talking 60+ at idle and buries the oil pressure gauge at WOT) I clip 2 links off the factory DOD spring. Which coincidentally makes them almost the same length as the non DOD pump spring. This gives me around 60 on startup and 40 at idle hot.
The non DOD pumps begin to drop pressure around 6k. It doesn't drop like a rock, but it does peak around 6k and drop off steady. Not generally good for high rpm builds IMO. Shimmed or not, the volume isn't there.
Melling 10296 is the entry level high volume most use. Don't worry about "sucking the pan dry". Yes, it does happen if you run the suggested amount of oil in a central sump pan like the Fbody. Run 2 full QT's over the suggested oil capacity and it doesn't happen anymore.
An oil accumulator is also a great part that few ever use. Even with a non DOD factory pump I think an accumulator would likely solve all oil pressure related issues on a 1/4 mile car.
Depends what pump you have. The factory DOD Pumps have larger wider vanes/rotor (what ever you want to call a geo-rotor pump) in them. They pump more pressure and volume. Once you block the DOD ports off the pressure goes up too high IMO. (talking 60+ at idle and buries the oil pressure gauge at WOT) I clip 2 links off the factory DOD spring. Which coincidentally makes them almost the same length as the non DOD pump spring. This gives me around 60 on startup and 40 at idle hot.
The non DOD pumps begin to drop pressure around 6k. It doesn't drop like a rock, but it does peak around 6k and drop off steady. Not generally good for high rpm builds IMO. Shimmed or not, the volume isn't there.
Melling 10296 is the entry level high volume most use. Don't worry about "sucking the pan dry". Yes, it does happen if you run the suggested amount of oil in a central sump pan like the Fbody. Run 2 full QT's over the suggested oil capacity and it doesn't happen anymore.
An oil accumulator is also a great part that few ever use. Even with a non DOD factory pump I think an accumulator would likely solve all oil pressure related issues on a 1/4 mile car.
Ball bearing turbos aren't going to strain the oil system much at all fwiw. Even standard journal style don't.
Depends what pump you have. The factory DOD Pumps have larger wider vanes/rotor (what ever you want to call a geo-rotor pump) in them. They pump more pressure and volume. Once you block the DOD ports off the pressure goes up too high IMO. (talking 60+ at idle and buries the oil pressure gauge at WOT) I clip 2 links off the factory DOD spring. Which coincidentally makes them almost the same length as the non DOD pump spring. This gives me around 60 on startup and 40 at idle hot.
The non DOD pumps begin to drop pressure around 6k. It doesn't drop like a rock, but it does peak around 6k and drop off steady. Not generally good for high rpm builds IMO. Shimmed or not, the volume isn't there.
Melling 10296 is the entry level high volume most use. Don't worry about "sucking the pan dry". Yes, it does happen if you run the suggested amount of oil in a central sump pan like the Fbody. Run 2 full QT's over the suggested oil capacity and it doesn't happen anymore.
An oil accumulator is also a great part that few ever use. Even with a non DOD factory pump I think an accumulator would likely solve all oil pressure related issues on a 1/4 mile car.
Depends what pump you have. The factory DOD Pumps have larger wider vanes/rotor (what ever you want to call a geo-rotor pump) in them. They pump more pressure and volume. Once you block the DOD ports off the pressure goes up too high IMO. (talking 60+ at idle and buries the oil pressure gauge at WOT) I clip 2 links off the factory DOD spring. Which coincidentally makes them almost the same length as the non DOD pump spring. This gives me around 60 on startup and 40 at idle hot.
The non DOD pumps begin to drop pressure around 6k. It doesn't drop like a rock, but it does peak around 6k and drop off steady. Not generally good for high rpm builds IMO. Shimmed or not, the volume isn't there.
Melling 10296 is the entry level high volume most use. Don't worry about "sucking the pan dry". Yes, it does happen if you run the suggested amount of oil in a central sump pan like the Fbody. Run 2 full QT's over the suggested oil capacity and it doesn't happen anymore.
An oil accumulator is also a great part that few ever use. Even with a non DOD factory pump I think an accumulator would likely solve all oil pressure related issues on a 1/4 mile car.
If the motor is built right it's not a huge deal. Be careful running a restrictor, what to do for turbo oiling is brand/turbo specific. Not ball/journal bearing. A Borg will not want a restrictor where I see most Precisions use them.
I don't think you can go wrong with an improved pump. I run the 10296 HV and HP on my turbo build without issue.
I don't think you can go wrong with an improved pump. I run the 10296 HV and HP on my turbo build without issue.
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Verdad Gallardo Ball bearing turbos aren't going to strain the oil system much at all fwiw. Even standard journal style don't.
Depends what pump you have. The factory DOD Pumps have larger wider vanes/rotor (what ever you want to call a geo-rotor pump) in them. They pump more pressure and volume. Once you block the DOD ports off the pressure goes up too high IMO. (talking 60+ at idle and buries the oil pressure gauge at WOT) I clip 2 links off the factory DOD spring. Which coincidentally makes them almost the same length as the non DOD pump spring. This gives me around 60 on startup and 40 at idle hot.
The non DOD pumps begin to drop pressure around 6k. It doesn't drop like a rock, but it does peak around 6k and drop off steady. Not generally good for high rpm builds IMO. Shimmed or not, the volume isn't there.
Melling 10296 is the entry level high volume most use. Don't worry about "sucking the pan dry". Yes, it does happen if you run the suggested amount of oil in a central sump pan like the Fbody. Run 2 full QT's over the suggested oil capacity and it doesn't happen anymore.
An oil accumulator is also a great part that few ever use. Even with a non DOD factory pump I think an accumulator would likely solve all oil pressure related issues on a 1/4 mile car.
Depends what pump you have. The factory DOD Pumps have larger wider vanes/rotor (what ever you want to call a geo-rotor pump) in them. They pump more pressure and volume. Once you block the DOD ports off the pressure goes up too high IMO. (talking 60+ at idle and buries the oil pressure gauge at WOT) I clip 2 links off the factory DOD spring. Which coincidentally makes them almost the same length as the non DOD pump spring. This gives me around 60 on startup and 40 at idle hot.
The non DOD pumps begin to drop pressure around 6k. It doesn't drop like a rock, but it does peak around 6k and drop off steady. Not generally good for high rpm builds IMO. Shimmed or not, the volume isn't there.
Melling 10296 is the entry level high volume most use. Don't worry about "sucking the pan dry". Yes, it does happen if you run the suggested amount of oil in a central sump pan like the Fbody. Run 2 full QT's over the suggested oil capacity and it doesn't happen anymore.
An oil accumulator is also a great part that few ever use. Even with a non DOD factory pump I think an accumulator would likely solve all oil pressure related issues on a 1/4 mile car.
I need to clip the spring In mine haven’t ever got around to it, last season it is 88-90 idle cold, it make 125-149 on a pass, it’s a lot but it hasn’t broke yet we spin it 8400rpms
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Yes, an extra quart, with an Improved Racing baffle. I never lost oil pressure on launch but the 60 foots were only in the 1.4x range.
The new engine has a Holley 302-3 with a baffle and I'm considering an Accusump. Lot more RPM, lot more chance of draining the pan on launch.
The new engine has a Holley 302-3 with a baffle and I'm considering an Accusump. Lot more RPM, lot more chance of draining the pan on launch.
Yes, an extra quart, with an Improved Racing baffle. I never lost oil pressure on launch but the 60 foots were only in the 1.4x range.
The new engine has a Holley 302-3 with a baffle and I'm considering an Accusump. Lot more RPM, lot more chance of draining the pan on launch.
The new engine has a Holley 302-3 with a baffle and I'm considering an Accusump. Lot more RPM, lot more chance of draining the pan on launch.
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Yeah, transducer. Oil pressure never dipped on the launch at all. I'd say the Improved Racing baffle did its job. We were losing oil pressure in the 6-speed TT S10 with an F-body pan on launch with similar 60 foot times without the baffle.
Nice. Sounds like a good bang for the buck upgrade.
So what sixty foot would you guys say requires an accumulator and or AM pan w/ pick up?
A local guy I know was cutting really low 1.4 60' on a stock pan with baffle / overfilled and still starved his bottom end and ate up the bearings.
I think now he's doing an AM pan and accumulator now.
A local guy I know was cutting really low 1.4 60' on a stock pan with baffle / overfilled and still starved his bottom end and ate up the bearings.
I think now he's doing an AM pan and accumulator now.
Last edited by Forcefed86; Feb 3, 2021 at 11:05 AM.
So what sixty foot would you guys say requires an accumulator and or AM pan w/ pick up?
A local guy I know was cutting really low 1.4 60' on a stock pan with baffle / overfilled and still starved his bottom end and ate up the bearings.
I think now he's doing an AM pan and accumulator now.
A local guy I know was cutting really low 1.4 60' on a stock pan with baffle / overfilled and still starved his bottom end and ate up the bearings.
I think now he's doing an AM pan and accumulator now.
) So what sixty foot would you guys say requires an accumulator and or AM pan w/ pick up?
A local guy I know was cutting really low 1.4 60' on a stock pan with baffle / overfilled and still starved his bottom end and ate up the bearings.
I think now he's doing an AM pan and accumulator now.
A local guy I know was cutting really low 1.4 60' on a stock pan with baffle / overfilled and still starved his bottom end and ate up the bearings.
I think now he's doing an AM pan and accumulator now.
I'm just looking to go mid 9's on pump swill with my current car and would prefer to add a baffle or AM pan before finding out the hard way lol.
Id go the baffle and overfill route and put a transducer on it to log and call it done unless the log tells you otherwise.